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Thread: Caliper replacement issues..

  1. #1
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    Caliper replacement issues..

    So I've got some junkyard calipers to replace the seized rear ones on my 97 MX6..I've had no problems getting the old ones off or the new ones installed up until the point where I tried to fit the caliper with the new pads in over the rotors to mount them. I used my trusty allen key to back the piston back into the caliper (not supposed to C-clamp these apparantly) but the piston just doesn't seem to go far enough...after a while the piston stops moving in even though the allen key can still be turned 100-2,000 times. This is the case with both new calipers and one of my old ones I tried this on. So what's the problem? I ditched the stock shims (new calipers didn't come with all of em) and used these stick-on shims that came with the new pads (NAPA) but they're no thicker than the stock shims. Seems like it would probably fit with no shims but is that a good idea? What do the shims even do?

    The new calipers fit perfectly, so I'm sure they're the correct ones. When I turn the Allen key the OTHER way the piston comes back in on both, which I think means they're not seized (and the ebrake lever can be moved by hand) so I'm thinking the new calipers aren't the problem... any ideas?

    Also, what's the best way to plug up the brake line when the caliper's off? Filling up the master cylinder repeatedly when it leaks down to the MIN line is getting annoying!
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  2. #2
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    are you trying to push the caliper "ram" in connected with the bleeder valve open or closed? Is it possible they may have given you a dissimilar caliper for non vented disc's or something?

    How do they compare to the originals?
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  3. #3
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    while turning the allen, push in on the piston to get it to go the rest of the way

  4. #4
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    ^he is right.

    with calipers your better off buying new brake fluid absorbs moisture and it rusts the caliper piston junk yard stuff usually sits around for awhile so its a crap shoot to get one that will last

  5. #5
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    Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I went back outside and thinking about it realized if the adjustment 'screw' was just freewheeling so much it couldn't hurt to push on it, so I used a big C-clamp and a piece of wood to push the piston face back. After a little bit of playing finally got it to nudge back far enough.

    I normally don't buy the junkyard parts but all this is for the winter beater which will likely only be good for another season or two, at $25 a caliper and doing the work myself I figured I didn't have much to lose but some time and the cost of a bit more than a case of beer...

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