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Thread: 98 XJ build

  1. #1
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    Post 98 XJ build

    Looking at doing a diesel conversion to my truck as well as doing a 4 link front and rear along with new axles. I dont want to spend a TON of money but if its worth it i'd like to know.

    So far i was thinking about doing a Ford 9 in the rear and i was looking at doing a Dyna 44 both with either e-lockers or would it be a better choice to do air lockers for the extra money??....

    Pulling out the drivetrain and i want to basically put it to the hight i'd like on either saw horses or build a system to keep it at the hight i want and basically build around that.

    For the motor i was wondering if anyone had a good idea for a solid motor that isnt going to be a big differnce in the engine bay. I would like to see a turbo diesel but if not its fine. Anyone with ideas for a motor let me know, the other thing is a 350 or the newer 305 i.e. out of the late model 1500 Chevy's, or the 4.8 out of the 2000+ 1500 chevys.

    I already have the A/C out and everything to do with it, like lines, condenser evaporator.... Any other way to make more room and any ideas to make the cluser work with the motor.
    Front bumper will be the last thing, that will come with Army green paint, and the Line X in the interior.
    98 Cherokee Sport, 5 inch lift with BFG Mud-Terrain KM2's, Thrush muffler with full custom exhaust, custom bumper.

    04 Mustang Cobra, Pully Tune, bbk long tube, Eibach Pro-plus kit, Corsa DB red series mufflers, 315/35/R17 MT ET Streets w/ Cobra 10.5" width rims.

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    sounds good dude.
    ive just started to pound on an old holie 96xj and the 4.0l has tons of power.
    but diesel would be cool.

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    A few thoughts...

    A stroker 4.0 when built with certain modifications could put near diesel power on the ground. Custom camshaft, larger injectors, 4.2 crank & rods, clean up (port) the cylinder head, an overbore of the block and you could be knocking out 210-230 hp, and around 260-280 hp. The 4.0 (and thus a stroker displacing 4.5-4.7 litres) will weigh in at around 515 lbs. (Not sure if that's dry weight, but seems to be a consistent number I can find on-line.)

    PROS: No mods needed for tranny, driveshafts, engine mounts, gauges or electrical system. Parts are readily available. You can cool it with a heavy-duty 3-core radiator for a 4.0, which is also available in many flavours of price. You'll keep lots of room in the engine bay to tinker on it, and even your exhaust should be easy to do. Then there's emissions testing; if the engine is built right, it'll pass. No need for a 'hot rod' provision, and thus no real need to change your insurance.

    CONS: Getting a stroker to run properly in stoich can be an issue. You'll have to run an oil with lots of zinc, as custom cam applications seem to be prone to wear. (At least it seems this way by all of the threads floating around out there...) There may be more problems, but none I can think of right now.

    Chevy V8; Novac sells a bolt-in, or a weld-in engine mount kit, while Advanced Adapters only sells a weld-in kit. You'll need to stiffen the uni-body some, probably chassis stiffeners like T&J or TNT sells. A stock 5.7 TBI puts out around 210 hp, and 300 lbs of torque. A newer Vortec 5.7 cranks out 250 hp & 330 lbs/ft, and a 5.3 Vortec sings to the tune of 290 hp & 330 lbs/ft of torque. Weights will vary, but a good general weight is around 550 lbs. Aluminum heads will lower this, as will an aluminum intake.

    Pros: Sweet, sweet music. I LOVE the sound of an eight! Then there's the 'wow' factor; you'll have folks asking you to pop your hood all the time. The SBC will make good power across the RPM range, and has more go-fast goodies than you can shake a stick at. The trannys that bolt up to the engines are all over the place, and are pretty solid.

    Cons: Most of the folks asking you to pop your hood will be dudes. Your Jeep will definitely be considered a 'hot rod', and as soon as your insurance hears 'V8' they'll turn on you like a bear, and you're wearing steak underwear. Then there's the cooling issues. Without custom work to your radiator support area, you'll need either a heavy-duty 3-row rad (cheapish) with some inventively spliced rad hoses, or a custom application rad (around $500-$700). Exhaust won't be too bad, as you can run any 2.5" cat-back system; but you'll need custom work to get both downpipes to the cat. Depending on the engine you go with, and how good you are with electrical work, you can cobble together a Frankenstein wiring harness from the donor vehicle and your stock Jeep system. If you're like me, you'll need a custom harness. You can skip most of the wiring issues by going with a carbed engine, but you'll be losing 25 years of fuel injection magic, and descending into the days when foreplay consisted of clonking a woman over the head with a big stick, and dragging her back to your cave. (Or vice versa. I'm an equal opportunity sexist.) There's more, but I'm not an expert, and only know what I've read and heard from folks who've had the guts to do it.

    Diesel is sweet, but getting one into an XJ will be a bear. The lightest girls are hefting around the 650-750 lbs mark, and just plain forget about anything more than four cylinders. Sure, you could go with an Olds 350 diesel, I don't know anything about 'em so I pretend they don't exist. (We fears the unknown!) A lot of diesels are also tall, something to consider for the shallow XJ engine bay. Most 4-popper oil burners will net you 120-140 hp, and will happily churn out over 300 lbs/ft of torque.

    Pros: Diesel! Older models are dirt simple to wire up, while newer ones will require more work. Fuel economy will rock, and when folks hear the distinctive clatter of a diesel, they flock to the source to gaze in wonder and awe.

    Cons: Again, the gawkers will pretty much be a total sausage fest. You'll actually be losing horsepower, and gaining weight; both of which will make the XJ about as light on her feet as a heifer with a sprained ankle. Insurance might be less inclined to cast you out if you tell them that you swapped out your high performance six cylinder for an 'economical' four cylinder diesel, but I wouldn't count on it. Transmission selection is fairly limited, as is parts support. Cooling can likely be handled by the stock 4.0 rad with creative hose fabrication. You will definitely need serious reinforcement of the sub-frames, especially in the front. (Remember, you're plopping an extra 100 lbs or more on those sheet metal rails, as well as adding 80+ lbs/ft...)

    Well, there you go. Some thoughts from a guy who thinks swapping out a fan belt is cause for celebration, and an oil change is damn near heart surgery.

    If I was a Jeep, they'd have parted me out a LONG time ago.

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  4. #4
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    So if i were to do the stroker, and bore out the motor what do you think would be the full cost not to the cent but a round about price to build the motor.

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    I'm not sure. I don't think it'd cost much more than a standard engine rebuild.

    There's plenty of info on stroker builds out there, a whole forum dedicated to Jeep strokers can be found here... http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/


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    If I were you stick with the 4.0 and massage it a bit. There are plenty of aftermarket power adders out there. As for lockers do some reading on them and check out what you will be doing with 'em. It may be worth the extra bucks if you can see air being more effective.

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    Okay, well ive been doing some reading aswell and i dont know if anybody has seen the new axles for the Dyna 30 thats stock on the XJ,TJ,ZJ's but its the CV axle set up by RCV Performance, they are sworn to be just as strong as a dyna 60 axle.

    https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...products_id=78

    Link is there, there 985.00 and 40.00 for the block off kit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rvcaxles.jpg  

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    hey man.... a little hungover..... room spinning.... yea i've been there

    too.



    seriously dude, put down the 30 man, dont do it dude, its just not gonna be fun, you know.

    (i hope you know im just kidding)

  9. #9
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    yeah im just wanting to get a nice set of axles that wont break but i dont want to go to the trouble of building the Ford 9-44 Hybrid

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    The one MAJOR issue with the Dyna 30, which i had replaced today...again for the second time now, and i have owned my jeep for a little under a year, bought it stock did the lift myself...had to replace both because they were gone...
    133.00 a peice, this gets to be a very pointless axle...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG00038.jpg  

  11. #11
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    Okay so i was talking to a guy tonight for about an hour and he was telling me about the Cummins 3.9L diesel, same exact motor as the 5.9L BUT its a 4 banger.
    I forget what he called it i will do some research and post what i find, if anyone knows about the motor or thinks its a worth while idea.

  12. #12
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    The Cummins B Series is a family of straight-four and straight-6 diesel truck and industrial piston engines manufactured by Cummins. The B Series is known for displacing "one liter per cylinder" because of the popular 3.9 litres (238.0 cu in) straight-four and 5.9 litres (360.0 cu in) straight-six. A 3.33.3 litres (201.4 cu in) straight-four is also available. The B Series is widely used in many segments, including pickup trucks (the Dodge Ram), buses, military vehicles, construction equipment, and marine. Some of the construction and marine applications have actually featured two B series Cummins engines.

    The engine was originally designed by Cummins and Case Corporation for commercial truck applications, and appeared in a light-duty truck, the Dodge Ram, in 1989. This was not the first engine to appear in Dodges as a Diesel option. Mid-70's D models offered the rare, underpowered, Mitsubishi non-turbo diesel. Every Cummins powered Dodge Pickup (since initial production in 1989) has come equipped with a turbocharger. It uses a gear-drive camshaft for extra reliability. Also specified is a deep-skirt engine block and extremely strong connecting rods. A Holset turbocharger is used.

    The original B Series was updated with 24 valves and an electronic engine management system to become the ISB in 1998.


    THIS IS WHAT I FOUND ON WIKIPIEDIA;

    The 3.9L/4BT Cummins is an engine in the same family as the 5.9 litres (360.0 cu in) Cummins turbodiesels. The 3.9L/4B is an inline four cylinder turbodiesel that was popular for many step van applications, including bread vans and other commercial vehicles. This engine is also used in various industrial, construction and agricultural applications. With a cylinder bore of 4.02 inches (102.1 mm) and a piston stroke of 4.72 inches (119.9 mm), the engine had a wet weight of 745 pounds (338 kg). In recent years it produced 130 horsepower (97 kW; 132 PS) and 355 foot-pounds force (481 Nm) of torque. The 4BT today is also popular as a conversion engine among many light-duty pickup trucks that were originally equipped with gasoline engines. This is due to its high fuel efficiency while producing power comparable to the original light-duty gasoline engine. The 4BT engines have the same pistons, connecting rods, valvetrain components, and injectors as their 6BT counterparts.

  13. #13
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    I found a Photo of one in a XJ apprently its a common motor to put in...??
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 4BTandcutouts001.jpg  

  14. #14
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    theres a kickass TJ on here that already has that swap

    Overland diesel did the swap for him
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcmasterbra View Post
    I found a Photo of one in a XJ apprently its a common motor to put in...??
    thats not an XJ, its a yj or tj

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  16. #16
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    As soon as motor swap comes into play look at 5k plus by the time you're done. Adaptors, then transmissons, clutches, engine rebiulds if required, Fabricating mounts, Frame stifening, Electrical parts and on and on.....

    And this is so anal retentive but, they are DANA axles not DYNA.

  17. #17
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    Yeah sorry about that...haha my mistake

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    Hey so i found a link to do a 4.0L to 4.6 stroker.

    There kit comes with the following;
    - PRECISION GROUND, CHAMFERED 99MM STROKER CRANK
    - AMC 4.0L STAGE 1 CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP ROD BOLTS
    - CUSTOM FORGED PISTONS @ 10:1 (W/ 58CC HEAD & 9.443" D/H) (not sure what the proper bore size will be, but im contacting the company to see and get more information)
    - TOTAL SEAL FILE-TO-FIT MOLY RING SET
    - CLEVITE TRI-METAL MAIN & ROD BEARINGS

    $1295.00 + taxes

    Also in the kit I checked pricing for the followign extra opitions;

    - NEW HARMONIC DAMPER, Add $69.00
    - TOTAL SEAL TS-1 RING SET, Add $110.00
    - RADIUS & POLISH CRANKSHAFT, Add $40.00
    - HANG & ALIGN PISTONS TO RODS, Add $36.00
    - COAT PISTON TOPS & SKIRTS, Add $120.00

    $1670.00 + taxes


    Other costs consist of minor costs;

    - Machining of Block $240.00
    - Master Gasket kit approximatly $250.00
    - Misc. products - oil, coolant, thermostat, and other odds and ends.

    In total it will be about $2000.00 for a basically BRAND NEW motor, strokes and ready to go. Only thing im wondering is, what the numbers will be, everyone that has the 4.6 stroker says around 400 at the crank... anyone have one that can give me an accurate number?

    http://www.speedomotive.com/p-571-je...#KitInPostBack

  19. #19
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    little on the expensive side but you could maybe get some info from the guy http://london.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehic...AdIdZ177035048

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    hey man kinda far for you but i found this awhile ago, hes drop the proce a few times
    http://sudbury.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ175069930
    92 4.0L HO (sold dwnpmt on a new car for teh wife AFTER OLY HAVING ON THE ROAD FOR 3 WEEKs!!!!!!!!!!!! wow that felt good
    1979 CJ-5 ;ifted with 33's ford 302 4 spd
    I'd ask you to step away from the welder, but it might do the world some good if you clamp the ground electrode to your big toe, put the MIG handle to your temple and pull the trigger.

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