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Thread: buying the "right" 9" axle

  1. #1
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    buying the "right" 9" axle

    Hey everyone,

    So I bought a WELL built dana 44 from a '78 f250 that measures 66" wms to wms and is 6 bolt(so wheel adapters will prob be needed). I would like to stay full width for now and would like to get either a dana 60 or ford 9" but would rather the weight and clearance saving of the 9". I'm not planning on ever going bigger then 37's, and am running 35's now!

    My question is, what is the right 9" to buy? There are so meny combos out there on kijiji and the shopper! I have found this one; Ford 9" rear end with disc. brakes and posi. 64" rotor to rotor. Out of an 80's Lincoln Versailles. Would this be right for me? He says it has the big bearings(1/2 flange holes), but has no idea on spline count or otherwise. I would like to have at least 30 spline, maybe even 35...and want to put an arb in it...I'm new to this type of stuff, so any help would be AWESOME!

    If anyone has any other suggestions as to a direction I should take feel free to chime in!!

    Thanks!!!

    Matty
    I don't care who ya are...that's funny!!

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    9'' are as diffrent as people are.
    ive taken appart a couple that was supposed to be big bearing and it wasent.
    some had the big bearing with only 27 spline some were a 30 spline with the small bearing.
    right now ive got a set from a 79 ford 150 pickup. a 9'' and a 44hp front. there full width and im sure the 9'' has the bigger spline shafts in it. if you need it let me know.
    as for the disk brakes. ah... personal perferance.

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    Ford never used a 6 bolt pattern....3/4 ton D44 is 8 lug and the 1/2 ton is 5 lug.

    Pretty much al OEM car 9" axles are 28". Not good. Plus, the car housings are weak ass junk. Strong, aftermarket housings are not that expensive. The bottom line is that if you are serious about having a reasonably stout 9" for the back of your jeep, it will have to be built, not bought. You are probably slightly farther ahead to grab a later truck 9" since it will have 31 spline shafts.....though, the housing isn't much better. While not all that strong, the Exploder 8.8 swap offers a lot more bang for the buck and is on par for strength with a D44. It already has 31 spline shafts and discs. In stock form, it has the correct bolt pattern, good brakes and shafts. The downfall would be that it will not match a full width axle. A later model F150 8.8 w/discs might be the ticket for that.
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    Ya sorry, you are right about the ford bolt pattern...it has chevy hubs and breaks!! Thanks for the info, might just look at the 60!!!

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    Another off the wall option is the 9.5 GM 14bolt. Cheap, close to D60 Ring Gear Diam (and bigger then Ford 9")., 33 spline 1-3/8 shafts. And did I mention CHEAP. I got on you can have, 97% complete.
    90 YJ. 4link F/R, 16" SAW Airshocks, 32bolt Beadlocks, D60/14bolt, Full Hydro/Hydroboost L67 3.8SC 700r4 NP231/D300
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    I prefer to build it and not buy it, you see it, I probably made it.

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    the 9s don't come with 30 spline only 28 or 31 from factory, if you want a 35 spline axle you will need a new 3rd member housing and carrier. that gets into big bucks. the best 9 you can buy would be a drum brake 31 spline 9 from a bronco or other truck. disk brake conversions are cheap and easy, i used bcbroncos.com for my disk brakes. i also just picked up my 35 spline arb front 9 for my 609 project it wasnt cheap there was also nothing standard about it. i had mike and just jeeps do the gears for me and you can call and ask him about how pretty it looked. they can also steer you in a good direction.

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    hear is 9er with 60 outers

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
    Another off the wall option is the 9.5 GM 14bolt. Cheap, close to D60 Ring Gear Diam (and bigger then Ford 9")., 33 spline 1-3/8 shafts. And did I mention CHEAP. I got on you can have, 97% complete.
    What does 97% complete get me? And what is cheap?!
    Thanks for all the input everyone!

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    Why not just rip off the chevy sh!t and slap some ford gear back on. Cheap and easy. Then you can pick if ya wanna run 5 or 8 bolt ( 9" or 60"). Seems like a lot less of a headache. Just my thoughts.

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    Ya the Chevy shit is just on there because he had it on his z71 that he did a sas on! I have no prob going back!

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    so I guess the question is...9", sf 14 bolt, ff 14 bolt, or dana 60? So meny questions!

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    97% Means:
    Need cross pin retaining bolt (Easy, just a 3/8 Gr8 bolt or somethinglike that)
    Diff Cover
    Brakes need service.

    Cheap is: Can you pick it up? I'll even help you lift it into a truck.

  13. #13
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    Oh, and you will not want a 14b FF on 37's, even on 40's they hang down.

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    i would stay away from the 60 and 14b, both are just so heavy, especially in a small tj

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    Jkmoto, I would be willing to take that off your hands! I could swing that way in the next week at some point!

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    Any more info befor I drive all the way over there? Wms to wms, bolt pattern? I'm guessing it's open, what ratio is it? Why are you not using it?
    Thanks!

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    I'll dig it out this weekend.
    66ish WMS, 6bolt Chevy. Ya open. I think 3.55 or 3.73, never bothered to look. Got it for free from a buddy who ripped it out before scapping their service truck.

    No HD enough for me. Got a 14ff and D60.

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    matgyver do you need some company if you go up there.
    jk has some radius arms i need.

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    Opinion only here, but 9"'s are not as strong as you might think, and are getting real hard to find junkyard parts for. If you do find one, you for sure need a "nodular" iron unit..(has an N cast on the top) But it was only offered in hp cars..ie, mustangs.
    Theres lots of aftermarket support for them, from Currie, Moser, etc etc, but thats stupid expensive for a still marginal unit.
    The explorer 8.8 is almost as strong, easy to find, has decent ratio's, and fits without narrowing..has disc brakes. Needs some prep, but not hard to beef it up, and also has lots of aftermarket support.
    60's are what they are. Also not hard to find. tons of support, with ratios as low as 7:17 (have a set of them)
    GM 14 bolt is about the strongest. Very similar to a 60, but has a pinion support bearing that increases thier strength by a lot. Not a lot of aftermarket support, but stuff is available.
    Stay away from Dana 70's.
    I would also suggest you loose the 44, and find a 60 from a Ford, with a high pinion and left side drop..think it was avail from about 78 to mid 80's (could be wrong on the years) on 1 ton pickups. I say that because you are about at a 44's limit, with 37's

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    9s are much stronger than a 8.8, and comparable to a 60. the weak point is the shafts which is a lot better than having a weak R&P. to prove I'm not talking out my ass:

    it goes, gm 10 bolt, dana 60, ford 9, then dana 80
    notice how much longer each spline is on the 9 than any others except for maybe the dana 80, also notice the extra bearing support on the front of the 9 which none of the other axles have, this prevents movement under high torque conditions.

    notice in this picture the 9 inch ring gear is thicker than the dana 44s making it also stronger. it is even thicker than a dana 60 ring gear, just slightly smaller in diameter.

    thicker and wider than a dana 60.

    and you get all the strength of a 9 with alot less weight than a dana 60 and much more ground clearance.

    you dont need nodular iron 3rd member for the 9, it does help, and they are fairly cheap in the aftermarket at just over $200.

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