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Thread: Front caliper stuck/seized 97 Mazda MX6

  1. #1
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    Front caliper stuck/seized 97 Mazda MX6

    1997 Mazda MX6..My front left (driver's) caliper is stuck closed, leaving the brake partially on all the time (can't spin the wheel by hand, but can mechanically turn it by driving the car). The only time you notice it while driving is when you put the clutch in to shift gears the car slows down a bit, and also doesn't roll on a slight incline.

    It appears like the lower slider pin is seized and causing my problem (this is the one you would use a hex bit or allen key to remove to rotate the pad holder part of the caliper up away from the rotor to replace the pads from the bottom). I cannot rotate this bolt/pin at all (seems like the top slider is ok). The 'plug' that's supposed to be in there to keep dust/salt/dirt out was missing as well as (if present) the collapsible accordian boot thing that sits between the two parts of the caliper. I sprayed penetrating oil everywhere (except the rotor and pads!) and am letting that soak while I take a break...

    Question 1: Any tips for getting this thing to turn so I can get it out and grease both parts up and see if the caliper is salvagable? and Question 2: Will I make my life worse/COMPLETELY seize up the caliper by driving the car like this for a few days?

    I just replaced my rear calipers at the begining of winter, don't want to replace the fronts too if I don't have to!
    2001 TJ 4L 60th Anniversary
    1990 Jeep YJ Laredo 258 <- SOLD!
    1996 Mazda MX6 LS V6
    1988 Mazda MX6 GT turbo <- SOLD!

  2. #2
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    Spraying the bolt was a good idea. Tap the bolt with a hammer (not too hard) and spray again to help the penetrating oil to get in there. I have had some success with whacking the bolt head with a hammer while trying to turn it.... and/or hitting the wrench at the bolt head. Are you using an allen key or a hex key with socket/ratchet? The latter with a johnson bar may give you some more leverage....
    Ron
    '05 GMC Highrider ZR2
    OF4WD#5914

  3. #3
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    If you can heat the bracket the pin slides in, it will expand and give you a better chance to coming free instead of breaking off inside. Worst case right now is that you overheat that rotor and pad set. If you can't turn it by hand (with the wheel on) then I'd have to say get it fixed ASAP and don't drive it. If it's dragging but you can turn the wheel by hand, then take a few days of soaking the bolt. When you can afford to replace the caliper, go at this one and see if it breaks free.

    I use heat to get seized pins out. Sometimes I burn the slider boots, but they're cheap compared to caliper assemblies.
    ....-Noltz
    '91 Frankenheep Edition. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, 35" KM2's, Titan 12k, ... gone.
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    ^ i agree, if you heat it to much the slider pin pops out with some wicked force, dont get your hands in the way... and I would suggest wearing safety glasses...
    Jeep... Bouncy and Fun...

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the helpful tips guys. Liquid Wrench did its job and I got the genius idea of turning the wheel so I could pull straight up, got my grunt on and she turned (Also I fell on my a$$, but that's ok). Got the sliders all lubed up and when I hammered the caliper off the rotor they seemed free but she was still seized up (piston) so I just shelled out for a rebuilt caliper (Not as bad as I thought: $79, the rear ones were $180 each, doh!) and threw that on...now the brakes work mint!

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