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Thread: YJ Fuel Pump Repair

  1. #1
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    YJ Fuel Pump Repair

    I've tried the forum's Search tool and I can't find what I'm looking for.

    My 95 YJ's fuel pump failed this past weekend. For the past week it's been difficult to start like maybe the fuel pump couldn't prime easily. I'd turn on the ignition, wait twenty or thirty seconds and then it would start. Now that trick won't work.

    I can't hear the fuel pump running and there isn't any pressure at the fuel pump rail (its a 2.5L 4 cyl engine).

    The first thing that I will do is to troubleshoot the fuel pump's wiring to make sure it's getting power. Can anybody tell me if I can cut an access hole in the floor above the gas tank rather than dropping the tank? It's full of fuel and the gas tank strap bolt are pretty corroded & seized.

    ---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

    One more question, how do I know if I have the 15 or 20 gallon gas tank?
    Wait, maybe I have an old gas receipt.
    just my two cents...take it for what its worth...


    95 YJ, RE 4" lift, 33" Procomp Extreme M/T's, Warn M8000 and mud - Trail Queen
    04 Liberty Sport, 2.5" Rusty's lift, ProComp LT245/75R16 AT's & a pair of Hella 700FF Lamps - Highway/Trail Ride & sometimes tow rig

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    sounds like you need a pump ur waiting trick worked for bit because it was getting weak now its failed completely
    rockin the 95 xj custom 4inch lift and 285/75/16 bfg mud terrain km2 and bds discos R.I.P

    98 xj 4.0L 5spd 4.5" zone lift and m/t sidebiters looking for 33s

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    I've been talking to a few people tonight and I've realized that if I do need to access the top of the fuel tank dropping the tank isn't that hard providing it's near empty. If the bolts on the straps break I can always weld new ones on. Cutting the floor of my Jeep above the gas tank might result in cutting into the top of the gas tank.

    But if I do drop the gas tank I'm going to replace the bent stock one with a Kilby.

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    New straps are easy to get and you only need to remove the straps if you plan to seperate the tank from the Skid plate as the straps do not hold the tank up the Skid plate does...

    You can Lower the Tank/skid with the tank full just lower it slowly and carefully then once down you can remove and replace the Sender and change out the pump and then using a manual pump remove the fuel into fuel cans so that you can safely raise the tank back into possition...
    1989 Jeep MJ: 4.7L Stroker, 4WD Swap, 97+Conversion, RC Long Arm Upgrade Kit, 35x12.5x18 Mickey Thompson MTZ's, WJ D30, WK SRT8 Rear D44 w/approx. 8" Lift
    1983 Jeep CJ7: SOLD

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    i cut an access hole, it wasnt hard and makes it easy, i now carry a spare pump in my trail box... try tapping the bottom of the tank with a rubber mallet while turning it over, if it starts then its definatly the pump
    If its a mechanical device i can fix it

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    I just had the ground straps on top of the tank go bad on both mine and my g/f yj. its a stupid design....the neg is a seperate wire not part of the plug, its connected to the metal pump top and gets a ground that way, they rust out being exposed and break off. check that out before you repalce the pump.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazz91yj View Post
    I just had the ground straps on top of the tank go bad on both mine and my g/f yj. its a stupid design....the neg is a separate wire not part of the plug, its connected to the metal pump top and gets a ground that way, they rust out being exposed and break off. check that out before you replace the pump.
    Right, will do.

    Today I was able to get the YJ to start by pounding on the gas tank with a 2 lb rubber mallet. I suspect that I jolted the fuel pump back to life. Either the fuel pump is on it's way out or the wiring is flaky like you've suggested.

    Last Saturday I noticed the smell of gas around my Jeep but I couldn't see anything dripping from it. Today I crawled under it after I got it started because I smelled gas again. Sure enough I discovered a leak in the gas like before the gas line filter.

    When I drop the gas tank later this week I'll replace the gas line & filter plus check the operation of the fuel pump. I'll keep everybody updated on my progress.

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    Easiest way to tell the size of the tank if it's oem is

    Steel=15 Gallon
    Plastic=20 Gallon
    Poster does not represent or warrant the the information accessible via this post is accurate or complete. Except as specifically stated on this post, neither rbjeepthing nor any of his affiliates, will be liable for damages arising out of or in connection with the use of this post.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBJeepThing View Post
    Easiest way to tell the size of the tank if it's oem is

    Steel=15 Gallon
    Plastic=20 Gallon
    I can reach the tank to tell it's plastic so it must be a 20 gallon. Somebody told me that both the 15 & the 20 gallon models use the same fuel tank sender. Does anybody know if it's so?

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    if i remember correctly the 2.5l plastic tanks.
    has a small plastic pipe inside the vent pipe which stops the tank from holding more than 15 gal in. if you pull that pipe out it will be able to hold the full 20gal.
    the only difference with the fuel senders for the 4L is the fuel guage wont be accurate if you keep the tank at 15 gal

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    Both my 95 YJ and 90 YJ 2.5L had plastic 20 gallon tanks no modifying them to fill them with that amount. There are two different listings for the sending units so I would assume the 15 gallon and 20 gallon are different. To the orginal poster we sell the somplete sending unit with pump for $219.95 brand new.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RBJeepThing View Post
    Easiest way to tell the size of the tank if it's oem is
    Steel=15 Gallon
    Plastic=20 Gallon
    Pre 91 yes but 91 and up the same tank is used for both 15 and 20 gallon tanks but the filler tube has an insert that is about 9" long for the 15 and 3" long for the 20 so any 15 can be a 20 if you remove the insert and either cut it to 3" or leave it out all together...

  13. #13
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    Okay time for an update;

    I've dropped the gas tank and removed the fuel sender/pump assembly from the plastic tank. I had a buddy of mine buy me a new fuel pump (Napa p/n E7085) for me however I've discovered that it won't easily fit into the old fuel sender unit. I'd have. I'd have to make it fit.


    So I've returned to my local Napa store and managed to find an entire fuel sender/pump assembly for only $157 (p/n SP736H) for a 20 gallon tank. I'd rather replace the entire assembly because the old fuel sender/pump is pretty corroded & old plus I managed to damage the return line when I removed it.

    By the way in researching the matter of whether or not I had the 15 or 20 gallon tank I've come to the conclusion that the biggest difference is the way they attach to the plastic gas tank. The 15 gallon fuel sender/pump fits a round hole with a locking ring. Mine fits in a square hole with screws.

    I'm still not positive that the old assembly was defective but since I have the whole fuel tank out already I might as well as replace these parts. I still have to wrestle with the fuel filter replacement. It's mounting hardware is seized & corroded.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepFever View Post
    By the way in researching the matter of whether or not I had the 15 or 20 gallon tank I've come to the conclusion that the biggest difference is the way they attach to the plastic gas tank. The 15 gallon fuel sender/pump fits a round hole with a locking ring. Mine fits in a square hole with screws.
    There are ONLY Two Tanks for a YJ...
    First is A Metal tank which is a 15 gallon which is the round Sender.... This was available from 87-90...
    Second is a Plastic tank which is BOTH a 15 gallon tank and a 20 gallon tank and the only difference is what I said earlier about the inlet tube which is inside the tank... This was available from 91-95...

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    Okay I got a new fuel sender unit c/w fuel pump for less than what I paid for the generic model I first bought.
    It appears to be identical to the one I pulled out.


    I'm anxious to get it all back together but first I have to replace the stubborn inline fuel filter and repair the old gas tank straps plus repair the rear corner panels before I start reassembling everything.

  16. #16
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    I bought mine from my local NAPA store for $121, p/n SP736H. It's made by Spectra Premium and the label on the box states it is a "Sender Assembly 94-95 Jeep Wrangler 20 gal".

    It wasn't easy to get the gas tank back in place because the electrical wiring & some of the vent hoses were pretty short. I repaired my gas tank straps but I recomend if at all possible buy new ones from your local gas tank/radiator repair shop. NAPA doesn't carry them. I also replaced the rubber fule lines while I had it all opened up. I wasn't going to drop the tank again just to replace a rotted fuel line.

    To get the wiring to plug into the Jeep's harness it helps to remove the rear tire. When I removed the old fuel filter to replace it this coffee colored liquid poured out, yuck. I can imagine what that did to my fuel injectors.

    I took the opportunity to replace my gas tank skidplate while I had the gas tank out. My old one had a couple of big dents & was rotted out.

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