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Thread: Broncoed YJ

  1. #1
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    Broncoed YJ

    I finally broke enough things this time to warrent taking the jeep off the road for a bit and swap out the t case and axles.

    I had a spare Np231 and had a AA slip yoke eliminator kit put in
    I picked up some 78 bonco axles, dana 44 and 9 inch. I'm going to put Chrome moly shafts and new brakes and u joints for now.
    I have a couple double cardon drive shafts from a couple jeep cherokees that i was going to get shortened at niagara driveshaft.
    I need to find some plain old black steelie rims and i was going to use the tires that i have for now.
    Oh and i was going to go SOA while i was at it


    Any input would be greatly appreciated
    I'm not a welder and have not even attempted it before, but i do have access to 110 mig and tig
    pics to come tomorrow
    1987 yj, 44 front, 9" rear, ramsey winch, 38.5" Boggers
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  2. #2
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    Take lottsa pics

  3. #3
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    How high are you wanting to go? My advice, (and please take it with a grain of salt) would be to stay spring under, and trim the fenders & body as needed. The reason I say this is that going spring over will require some welding, and possibly fabricating a traction bar. (Sorry if it's not the right term, I haven't slept in twenty hours and it's starting to tell.)

    For welding anything to an axle (spring perches), or the frame (relocate the leaf-spring mounts & shackle mounts), a 110 isn't going to do as well as a 220 volt machine. If it were me, I'd use the 110 to tack things where you want them and then get someone with a 220 to burn it in.

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  4. #4
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    here are some pics of the tear down of the rear end
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  5. #5
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    stay away from a spring over unless you are really good on suspension work. know a lot about caster,camber, bump steer. have seen this done too many times wrong
    it will never handle ,track right unless the job is done right . bubba

  6. #6
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    went out in the garage for a bit today. Is there any easy way to get the spindles off, they're stuck on there pretty good.
    can any one tell me how to tell what the gear ratio is.
    the new axles are actually the same width as the stock ones. so i'll need some nicely offset rims to clear the leaf springs
    another question, how do you get the hub off of the rotor?
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  7. #7
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    im just guessing but i think there 3.54.

    count the # of teeth on the pinion and divide it into the # of teeth on the ring gear.

    im pretty sure its stamped on the ring 40-13

  8. #8
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    thats better than the 3.07s that i have now.
    i was hoping for 4.11 but it will do, it will be a future project to swap the gears

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    hub comes off rotor by removing the studs use a big metal punch dont hammer on the end of the studs and as for the spindls a small sharp chizel, hammer of choice and some penetrant, sometimes good tunes and beer never hurts either.

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    would have posted some pics but the only thing i did today was remove the spindal from the one side and almost got the other side off. after 2 hours of hammering i thought that i would let the wd40 do the dirty work.i'll try again on wed.

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    Looks like you have a little work ahead of you!...I run the same diffs in my jeep, and they work great, not to heavy and handle the 35's just fine. The spring over can be a bit of a nightmare if you dont cover all your bases, i did the spring over and a shackle revers on mine, and love it...but I did build a rear track bar for the axle wrap( dont even think about not using one)...and had to do some custom crossover hi steer, and limmiting straps up front. I dont know what size your rims are, but I use a Dodge truck rim off a late modle 1/2 ton..right bolt pattern and the offset works well at keeping the tires tucked in with full width diffs!..The only thing you have to do is to hog out the centre hole in the rim to fit over the front hub on your 44. I have lots of pictures of my build and am more than willing to help out if you have any questions!..good luck with the build!

  12. #12
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    i got out for a few minutes today, so i did what i could
    and thanks guys for the help, it will be a slow one
    The ball joints are so tight that i have to use a hammer to move the knuckle,any tips to getting the knuckle off?
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  13. #13
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    cool that 44 should be from a 77 or newer cause the wedges arn't cast in to the inner c's good find!

  14. #14
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    200 bucks for the front 44 and rear 9, the guy needed cash i guess. I think he said it was 78 . They aren't that wide though, I think 59 inches

  15. #15
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    Nice find! Forgive my ignorance, but is this a fairly bolt-in application for YJ's? I'd want to stay spring under, but move up to 35's and trim as needed. Obviously the D35 won't handle it for long. How's the weight difference between 'em?

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  16. #16
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    yes it is fairly bolt on, you just need to weld on spring perches and shock mounts and thats about it. i think the booster will work but might have to change the proportioning valve because of the rear disc brakes.
    just by picking them up i would say the weight difference is about 60 lbs. I was running 35s for a good year and didn't brake the d35 but i think i was pushing my luck.
    most of the work is rebuilding so far but i don't get in the garage very often. i need to get a case of beer and a box of parts and a few friends and knock this thing off before it gets too cold

  17. #17
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    38.5 boggers on the way tommorrow. anyone have 16.5 x 10 rims 5/5.5 for sale?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by coulross View Post
    38.5 boggers on the way tommorrow. anyone have 16.5 x 10 rims 5/5.5 for sale?
    That is a custom sized wheel as no OEM/aftermarket supplier makes a 16.5 wheel with that lug pattern. As a result, that will be very difficult to find on the used market. There are a number of companies that will build that wheel to order or you could also buy or build H1 wheels that are recentered with any lug pattern you like as well.
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  19. #19
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    Sorry to burst your bubble but 40-13 is 3.08 ratio. I think your gonna have to regear for 38.5 rubber.
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  20. #20
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    the gear says 46-13

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