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Thread: making some changes

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impact View Post
    Holy Crap! Should have just started with a solid frame or complete caged buggy...

    Do you plan on using any of the XJ body panels to fill some of the open areas?
    without a doubt, hind sight 20-20 I would have started from scratch... that said I'll still finish this so I have something to wheel for a few years, it's been too long since I've done that.
    on the plus side much of what I spent big $$ on, was put into things I DON'T need to buy again, axles & brakes, t-case, fuel plumbing, steering, suspension, links, etc.

    there are no body panels left from the XJ to use, everything that was taken off is either gone to scrap, or loaded to go.
    but I do have some ideas to get it looking a little XJ'ish again, but that's a few months down the road.
    insert something witty here

  2. #42
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    as always, things (as in I) moved slower then expected... but the rear 4 link is in place.

    coil overs and ORI's didn't get touched, maybe next time.

    with everything together the numbers look like this;

    Uppers = 35"
    Uppers Frame Sep. = 33"
    Uppers Axle Sep. = 4.5"
    Lowers = 40"
    Lowers Frame Sep. = 20"
    Lowers Axle Sep. = 44"
    Static AS = 100% OR 85% depending on upper mounts used
    Roll Axis Angle = 4* OR 5* oversteer
    Pinion movement = 7.25* OR 5*

    This is how things look from above, mounts still need to be burned in, and gussets added. Now that the links are in place I can start on a rear frame (2x2 3/16")


    attached this 1/4" plate onto the 3/16" truss and will also weld the 1/4" to the dif where it touches. Will also tie the truss into the dif cover eventually.


    I have room for about 8"+ up travel as it sits, but have yet to have it on it's own weight... shooting for 6" up, 8" down.

    pass side moving up as far as it can go.


    driver up, pass side down.




    very happy with how everything went together, now just have to brace/gusset everything, and build a rear frame so I can attach the coil overs.

  3. #43
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    after removing everything of the rear "frame" a while ago, tonight I wanted to put something back into place.

    was hoping to get the C/O's in place back there too if time permitted.

    had 2 pieces bent up to attach the upper mounts to the rear tube/bumper,



    notched my old shock hoops, added a cross piece front & gussets rear to keep everything in place when I cut the inside piece of tube from the shock hoops... the pieces came out easy.





    with the C/O's in place.





    plenty of room for the coils



    everything flexed out



    got everything I wanted to done, now I can look into getting the fuel cell back in place, and also placing the bumpstops for the rear.

  4. #44
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    been making progress on this thing again, slow progress, but progress none the less.

    to get the rear end lowered to a better ride height I had to add a piece of tube from the hoop to the X... looks kinda shoddy, but it works, and I can stuff the rear tires as high as I wish. also got rid of the 12" x 225lbs coils that were on top of these C/O's and ordered some 14" x 150lbs QA1's from TMR.


    then to get the fuel cell as low as I could put it I had some 1 1/2" tube bent... now just debating whether I should move those tubes in under where the straps would go, or bend up 2 more, or just add some tabs to strap the cell down.
    the cell still has 1" clearance at full bump above the upper mounts, the sump is well behind the pumpkin so will have to add protection for it.



    started getting back to the cage itself, found some cheapo seats to use/build around, so now I know where tube can/should go. any thoughts on where the red ratchet strap is? "looks" wise I like the tube there, and would add gusset upto the A pillar. Other option is to just goto the node where all the other tube meets... would "look" less appealing but hey, it ain't meant to be pretty.




  5. #45
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    From my understanding the node is always the strongest point, if you wanted extra strength for the A-pillar you could add a large gusset or a bar going from the mid b-pillar node to the A-pillar, although that would look a little gooffy and might make it hard to get in and out of.

  6. #46
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    Oh my god. You just rocked

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by tealj View Post
    From my understanding the node is always the strongest point, if you wanted extra strength for the A-pillar you could add a large gusset or a bar going from the mid b-pillar node to the A-pillar, although that would look a little gooffy and might make it hard to get in and out of.
    yes I agree, node = stronger. I will have to lay out some tube and see how everything looks... in the end strength will win out over looks, but if I can combine the two, who knows.


    Quote Originally Posted by nabilarubaiya View Post
    Oh my god. You just rocked
    really? 46 posts, 1/2 are my own updates... and now someone from Bangladesh joins just to say that... my life is complete!

  8. #48
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    well got the cell protection in place, tac'd for now, once I'm sure it'll stay I'll add some sheet metal between the tubes.
    just need to build a box for the cell and some straps.





    got the final tube in place, decided to goto the node, as opposed to intersecting the horizontal tube and gusseting.


  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by beakie View Post
    really? 46 posts, 1/2 are my own updates... and now someone from Bangladesh joins just to say that... my life is complete!


    I like what you decided to do with the front side tube. Looks better then where the red strap was positioned.

    Planning on skinning it at all?

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impact View Post

    I like what you decided to do with the front side tube. Looks better then where the red strap was positioned.
    Planning on skinning it at all?
    ya, I prefer the end result of the tube too.

    skinning? not sure, not a priority at the moment... but I may once everything else is complete.

  11. #51
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    Almost there... Looks good.
    If you want to groove the tires let me know :-).
    #4700

    Rubi....

    buggy...

  12. #52
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    hey Seba, not sure I will worry about grooving anytie soon... but I have read/watched these tires in action with some creative grooving and they really bite depending on the terrain, something to think about in the future.

    picked up the tow rig last week! will have to start looking for a trailer in a few months.


  13. #53
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    That is one awesome build!. I have the same truck,mine's a 2010 and they are an awesome truck.
    Can't wait to see it complete

  14. #54
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    well, another one bites the dust.

    I will not be doing anymore work to this thing...

    long story short, bought camper last spring, spent almost a month total camping with the family over spring/summer/fall and hoping to do even more of it this coming year. what little time I would have for wheeling (even IF I finished this thing) I'd miss out on family/camping/travelling.

    going to be listing as much as I can think of/remember for parts, etc in the for sale area.
    prefer to sell complete, but will part out if major parts are spoken for.

    I'm not the least bit sad or disappointed, the amount of fun we had driving, camping, hiking, swimming, etc last year with a 2year old and a 10 month old... is only going to get better a year later and older.

    check for sale threads in next day, or two.

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