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Thread: An (un)Renegade rebuild

  1. #41
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    Tremclad, and no. I'll have it oil sprayed at Crown. They have long flexible wands that can be pushed down into the frame and coat from the inside.
    ....-Noltz
    '91 Frankenheep Edition. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, 35" KM2's, Titan 12k, ... gone.
    '95 4Runner SR5. Air-Lift bags, OBA & 8K Winch, DD... gone.

  2. #42
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    Great thread. Looking forward to preparing/replacing a tub vicariously through you.
    A minute passed then another. Then another minute. Then - another minute passed. Then another minute passed and another. A further minute passed quickly followed by another minute when suddenly -a different minute passed followed by another different minute and another and yet another further different minute, passed.

  3. #43
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    K, thinking about the floor here. What gauge steel do I want to use? Never been down this road, don't wanna walk into the steel supply house like a moron. I'm thinking I'll need some sheet in 4' wide x ?? (moving it with a utility trailer). What gauge? Also, for stiffening, I figured either angle iron or thin c-channel. The C-channel has the advantage that I can easily bolt my seat belts and body mounts to it. Speaking of the body mounts, I'm not terribly worried if the nuts are exposed on the floor. I want to do this once, do it strong.

    Short of a plasma, what's the best way to cut sheet? Thinking electric sheer but if I go nice and thick I don't think it'll cut it. Sawzall/jigsaw might work better.

  4. #44
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    Noltz, still have the frame supports here.
    Sold---YJ 6 cyl, 5 Spd, 4' Suspension Lift, SYE, 35" Tires, Lockers. Built, Not Bought.
    OF4WD#5888

  5. #45
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    I made mine with 18 gauge, but also used a bead roller to put some beads and stiffen them up, if i did it again i would just get some 16 gauge and not worry getting fancy with the beads. It will last longer and is much easier to weld. Some 3/16ishx1ish" flat bar is good for making supports for the floor section itself. As for body mounts....not sure, maybe some rectangle tube?

    For cutting Invest is some quality zip cut disks for your grinder ones from Cambodian tire are ok, stay away from the Princess Auto ones (they scare me) Walter's makes some nice ones that work great...but your looking at $4-5 a pop should be able to pick them up at a welding shop or industrial supply place.

    Pans

    ---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:15 PM ----------

    ^ Forgot 2'x2' will be enough to do one side
    '02 TJ - DD/Parts Runner
    '83 CJ8 - Toy/Project

  6. #46
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    Thanks Earl, but I'm not buying re-pop pans so I don't think the channels will work for me. The parts you did look fine, but being them (floor) and especially around the rear body mounts need attention. Mudsir is gonna drop by and have a look with me, as he needs some Toyota diagnostics done too

    I saw some mean lookin' floor work on Pirate - full custom stuff with 1x2 box tube substructure. Very cool.

  7. #47
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    No problem, just thought i'd let you know they are still sitting here. Good luck man, many different ways to make it work.

  8. #48
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    Yep. I made up a template and have started cutting out the damn roll bar bolt heads. I'm cutting out the main section of the floor, around the trans tunnel, leaving ~3" at the rear. Sides are pretty weak, so the plan is to cut out the weak metal leaving 2" under the door (like boatsiding). The new rockers will be rocker guards, nice and thick, burned into the body with a small lip on the bottom for strength. Backside of the new rockers will also get angle iron burned on for the new floor to sit on. Then burn it all together. 3/16's for most of it. Diamond plate for the floor. I'll have to make up spacers to get the seat base level again. The body mounts will be visible in the new floor, I'll use acorn nuts inside. I will reskin the A-pillars (we kept the roof panel from myles 4Runner intact - very nice sheet) and reinforce from behind with more angle all the way up to the cowl. If needed I can run a bar under the cowl to tie them together. Some detail work where the windshield mounts are will be needed, I'm hoping Rob (Mudsir) will be available to consult on that. Then it's paint and reassemble.

    Should be picking up the body mount kit next month, and Staang has a TJ skid for me (mines shot). I'll fix up the broken skid stud at work where I have better tools. If I need to cut it out at least I know the welder there will patch it nicely.

  9. #49
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    Cool man, can't wait to see the pic and jeep.

  10. #50
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    Ron not Rob. Just throwing that out there. Let me know when your at myles again this weekend. Ron ( not Rob )
    Servicing and Repair of RV's at Sicards RV in Smithville on HWY 20

  11. #51
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    Sorry, I knew that. I typed it once and it's stuck now. No chance in you changing your name huh? :P I'll give ya a shout when everything's tacked in just in case you have suggestions before I burn it all. As for the corner, that I'll certainly want your opinions Ron. I'm stuck on funds right now so no toys. The 4Runner chassis is stripped though... let Myles know when you wanna come pick it up. If we need to I think I have a tow bar and a light set we can use to flat tow it if that'll help. We'll have to tack on a few brackets to attach it.

  12. #52
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    I'm going to have my friend who has tow truck pick it up friday afternoon . Just have to secure the tranny with a chain and straps.

  13. #53
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    We strapped the trans to make it mobile, but more wouldn't hurt.

  14. #54
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    Slow and steady progress...











    Finished removing the roll bar bolts, only to find that previous repairs included welding the roll bar to the floor along 2 edges. It was being used as the structural member in the corners. Wonderful. Got one side cut out, other side awaits. Seat belt bolts out too. Ron came by and gave me some pointers on where and what to get rid of.... much appreciated sir. Looks a ton better without that rot in there - can actually see where the project is going now. Plan to drop an entire floor into the tub seems overkill at this point. Earl, check for PM's. Glad I didn't order that big piece of checker plate. I did get my side plates; 6"x63" 1/8 plates for the rockers, 3" for inside (to spread the load). Kinda wish I went with 3/16 now because while 2x as thick as the body it's not as thick as I would have expected. That said, nothing is stopping me from adding to it later. Right now I wanna get it fixed and reassembled.

  15. #55
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    Attachment 67382Attachment 67383Attachment 67384 here is some pics of the last bucket i did,hope they help

  16. #56
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    that's pretty cool! Twisted has some pan supports, and I have a good size piece of thick sheet. I'm abandoning the "DIY" plan will will fit it up closer to stock, but that looks very strong.

  17. #57
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    I stopped by after work for a few minutes while waiting for someone. Making use of some scrap saved from Myles's Runner.


  18. #58
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    looks like your well on your way ,keep going !

  19. #59
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    Doo da doo...





    Just playin' it by ear now. Didn't like what the new patch was going to land on. Upside; the patch panel I have is the exact gauge of the OE jeep floor.

  20. #60
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    Everyone likes pictures. I removed the patch and will redo it better.









    Really wish I had a true MIG. These welds need a lot of grinding.

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