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Thread: Sprint Booster Button Mod

  1. #1
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    Sprint Booster Button Mod

    Well I installed the Sprint booster and it works. I think it's an improvement as there's less throttle lag and it feels like the little motors not a sluggish...but where do I put that little button they come with?
    I decided to do a little customizing and put the button in the dash. I have a few blank switches on the panel, so here goes:

    After carefully drilling out the plastic rivets on the back of the Sprint booster switch, I took out the circuit board and clear button head to re-use. Popped off the "Blank" cover switch and drilled a hole to fit the clear Sprint Booster button head.



    I had to shave down the flat of the button a little more to accommodate for the curvature of the "blank", but I could have just drilled the hole a bit higher and it would have been OK. (I put the button low since there is a molded plastic flange on the stock housing that will take the pressure when I push the button)



    With the button in place, it seemed to rattle against the cover, so I cut a washer out of double thickness electrical tape, and put it in between the button and the cover.


    Now for the electrical side:

    I cut the excess board material away ( green circuit board without any copper traces on it) to make it fit in the space under the dash "blank" Switch cover. Notched the one side so it fit snug and glued it in place.



    (I later had to cut a little off the bottom where the solder pads are, to make the cover fit, but there is lots of solder there to trim from)

    I notched the side casing part way down the side, for the cable to exit the housing, and when I snapped the backing plate on the stock button housing, it seals it up and holds everything in place.




    Voila! a completed button module. Just needs to be put back in the dash.




    When inserting it back in the dash, I ran the cable down through an open area just below the button housing and out the back of the console, up to the sprint booster module (on the pedal assembly)


    Re-installed in the Dash, I think it looks ok.




    I would have rather had the button centered, but that would require building up something to support the circuit board from breaking or flexing when you press the button.



    If anyone else tries this, maybe try drilling the hole centered and gluing something to the back of the circuit board to support it.

  2. #2
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    What is it a "Sprint Booster Button Mod " is said to do?

    Like some time machine shit or what

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    Sprint Booster is for the electronic throttle on the JK:



    Sprint Booster Link:
    http://www.sprintboostersales.com/de...ler&engine=Gas

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    Im not sold on the idea... If it realy gets rid of that 1/2 second lag between my foot and the computer doing something then Im in... If it just changes the throttle mapping then ill just push my foot faster.

    I realy miss having a cable go from the pedal to the motor.
    2010 JK Unlimited Sahara, rubi axles, 35" duratracs, OME lift: Written off, RIP.
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    Yeah, I like my cable, it's reliable

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    So does the "Race Program" mean I can use a JK in NASCAR? Or is it just that I can smoke a ricer off the line instead of having to crawl up on their hood?
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    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    So does the "Race Program" mean I can use a JK in NASCAR? Or is it just that I can smoke a ricer off the line instead of having to crawl up on their hood?
    Nascar the way I'm understanding it for "race" mode

    I think you smoke ricers on the way to the Nascar race in "sport" mode.

    I could be wrong though

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    We stock the sprint boosters for auto and Manual. This is the best thing you can buy for your jeeps drive by wire throttle body. It take like 5 minutes to install. They are $329 plus tax
    A Sprint Booster is a small plug-n-play electronic modules that is installed on the drive-by-wire (DBW) module of your gas pedal. It modifies the electrical signal that goes to your car's computer to increase throttle response and improve the feel. The typical DBW lag is completely eliminated.
    If you dont like it, I will take it out. Jim
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    NASCAR all the way. Dc started the 3.8 as the new NASCAR motor and even hid the correct programming in the jk computer. They gave up when the marketing guys told them Rednecks would never buy minivan motors for their pickups though. They just detuned it for the street so we could get 70mpg like a hybrid. Sprintbooster just figured out how to unlock the NASCAR mode.

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    Being a trained electronics guy, I have lots of theories as to why a signal conditioner like this SHOULD OR SHOULDN'T be able to take out the throttle delay, but none confirmed.

    What I can say is that I bought it with the idea that; "if this little thing doesn't work, I'm getting my money back"...and ...I'm keeping it!

    Sprint Booster may not be the ultimate fix for the sleepy 3.8 V6, but it definitely improves driving and Up/Down shifts (manual trans). It IS EASIER to drive on the Highway without feeling like you're prodding the skinny pedal to keep it moving, and seems really punchy in the city.

    I think someone said: Putting performance parts on a JK is like putting perfume on a pig!...lol...so maybe Sprint Booster is the like zapping them with a cattle prod?

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    I'm kinda curious how it works as well. I am thinking the same as Drizit with the throttle mapping. Do you have a close up of the board that I can make out the numbers on any chips? Is the signal analog or digital?
    1989 Jeep YJ, AMC 401 fuel injected, D60 welded/14b locked, SM-465, np203 to Dana20 doubler, 44" XMLs, etc....

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    Na, Sorry, it's only the button that I took apart. Not that actual signal unit. I think "the Hawk" had a sprint booster he pulled out of his JK, maybe he'll open it and post up some pics?

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    I used to make engineering test equipment, and have a theory of my own.

    I think it changes the calibration of the variable resistor that's likely in the gas pedal assembly. i.e. The first 5 mm of pedal travel is now an increased voltage over stock, where it might be dead or nearly dead.

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    I think you nailed it 'Hustler'...Here's the graph from the sprint booster international web site




    It does show the output voltage climbing sooner and much sharper than stock. Then after that the "map" is accelerated and tweaked.

    So it's not a matter of just pushing "the skinny" further faster, it would be like tightening up the cable slack, and adding a cam to the throttle plate.


    Now that you say it, it seems so simple.
    (How did I miss that...kinda forest for the trees thing I guess)

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    my issue with the jk throttle is that it's slow to respond... so it's hard to match the rpm to the clutch for a smooth low speed start and I end up ether not giving enough gas and stalling or revving too high and cooking the clutch. It's hard to find that happy medium that's been so easy to get on everything i've ever had before that wasn't drive by wire. It's particularly hard off road when you are trying to get up over something the tire is already part way up. It's not the dead zone in the peddle that gets me (i don't think) it's the lack of instant response from the motor that does it. I guess when I have the coin on hand for one I'll have to drop by rockspyder and try it out.

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    We've had quite of few people purchase them and have had great results. Personally I have been selling them for years especially in the European car market as VW's have had the same issue of lack of response or delay if you will. Sprint Booster has a satisfaction guaranteed warranty so it's a win win situation.

    Thanks for the write up I have printed it off for customers as an alternative to just mounting the switch as is.
    Poster does not represent or warrant the the information accessible via this post is accurate or complete. Except as specifically stated on this post, neither rbjeepthing nor any of his affiliates, will be liable for damages arising out of or in connection with the use of this post.

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    ^ So it sounds like you're looking for a more linear throttle response.

    The stock one does show some substantial plateaus in the calibration.

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