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Thread: Cut and Turn

  1. #1
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    Cut and Turn

    Started my cut and turn on my Spare scout 44, figured I'd post up some pictures.

    The current axle in the jeep was Cut and turned on the heep once she was built. Steering was crazy scary so it needed to be done immediately so I didn't bother to fix the pinion angle. That was the wrong thing to do. In hindsight, I should have taken care of it when I was there.

    So first, since I was doing this out of the Heep, I built a jig to hold the axle in place. It intent was to be able to put a 20 ton jack underneath nose of the diff and use it to turn the C's. The fixture was not heavy enough and it was unsuccessful so I ended up beating on the C's with a sledge.


    The first cut was with a zip disk right where the weld meets the C.


    Then removed the weld with a grinding disk


    After that you still need to grind into the C because of the weld penetration into the C. It was around 1/8"-3/16" I had to remove. I did this with a 3" zip disk on an air grinder.


    If you look closely you'll see the faint line at the tube C intersection. This line needs to be present a full 360 degrees before you start beating on it.

    I then heated the C up on the front and back of it where the steel is the thinnest and proceeded to beat hell on the knuckle until I had turned it 24 degrees(caster angle + pinion up angle). I repeated for the other C.

    Once complete I verified everything was good and tacked the C's in place. Then relocated the spring perches to their new angle and welded everything in.

    I'll take some pics tonight of the welding-- the perches look a little hack but I got the welder set nice for the C's. It almost looks like I know how to weld.

    Just need to pull everything out of my current axle and pop it into this one(after a coat of tremclad of course).

    Tools used 5" angle grinder, air grinder, Millermatic 180, and less than 1 of each P.A. grinding/ cutting disks.
    Last edited by Sidepipes; 02-14-2011 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Spelling, grammar, wrong picture

  2. #2
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    nice work.... I'm doing a similar job... but I'm putting D44 inner c's on a HP D30.

    what did you use as fill wire for the welds?
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  3. #3
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    Nice. Good info. How hard did you have to hammer the C's. Healthy beating or full on retard strong? And fyi, appears 2nd and 3rd pic are the same.

    Cheers
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    Jak,

    From my research the C's are forged or cast steel(not iron). So normal welding procedures are ok. I jacked the welder up, chilled out on the feed rate and the welder worked nice. On my spring perches I had it set to Millers rec's and it looks like $hit.

    For my one spring pad, I preheated with a propane torch to around 400 F then welded with MS mig wire and adding in some austentic SS( ie non magnetic higher nickel and chrome quantities) which supposedly helps with the cast iron to steel weld). I then peened to as it was cooling down.I heard no "tink's" that you usually hear when welding cast iron.... so it looks like it worked. Since the mount is held in compression, I'm not too worried anyways.

    Curt,

    The beating was mild-retard strong. If you are doing it out of the vehicle, have a friend hold the table in place. When I did it in the vehicle , the weight of the vehicle held the axle in place.

    I think I've fixed the 3rd pic.

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    finished cut and turn.


    Some weld pron.


    Some weld pron for the guys that like the fat'n'uglies

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    Nice. Should slap a gusset on each side just for sh!ts while they're out and clean.

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    I know the Scout came with 0 degrees of caster, by turning the C's 24 degree. what did your angles become?
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  8. #8
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    7 deg caster + 17 deg pinion up.

    OH and from what I have seen (the two scout axles I have) it looks like the caster is 0 deg but the spring perch is 2-3 deg off. So you get 2-3 deg caster( at least with YJ springs) but you are also 2-3 degrees pinion down. This was my problem with the spring over my driveshaft was pretty much maxed out at ride height. When up at Phil factor this year, she destroyed a brand new pinion seal. I am pretty sure, due to the type of damage, it was because the driveshaft was hitting it when my passenger side was drooped out.
    Last edited by Sidepipes; 02-14-2011 at 08:36 PM.

  9. #9
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    Sorry to bring this back from the dead, But i have some info to add for anyone doing a cut and turn on a Scout D44.

    I just finished my cut and turn. I followed Sidepipes instructions and 1st cutting in to the weld with a zip disc is key to making everything a bit easier. I did the whole thing out of the vehicle with the axle on jack stands and it was a pain! At the very least get a big fat buddy to help you hold the axle while you beat the snot out of it with the biggest hammer you can find! I used a torch to heat up one of my inner C's cause it wouldn't budge then used a shop rag soaked in water to quickly cool the axle to tube to break the connection!

    I found the Scout axle I had seemed to have about 4 degrees NEGITIVE caster (upper ball joint ahead of lower) when the pinion was horizontal. I ended up turning the inner C's to 22 degrees of positive caster (26 from original). Ideally you would want to do all this in your vehicle so you can set it to what you need. But my vehicle is not anywhere near done yet so I figure I can adjust a bit once I install the axle and weld on the leaf spring perch's. either 3 degrees caster with 19 of pinion up or 8 degrees of caster and 14 of pinion. or any where in between.

    cheers

  10. #10
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    Nice work Sidepipes the welds look good !!!!!

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