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Thread: 14 bolt

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    14 bolt

    I have a couple of question about putting a 14 bolt under my TJ. Here is what I am planning on doing. I would like to keep my front 44 for a while but would like to put a 14 bolt in. Keeping the same bolt pattern. I realize the 44 isnt that strong but that is not the answer I am looking for. I have 1.25 wheel spacers on the front, so I want to keep the same WMS. So 63". I know the CC 14 bolt will fit.


    Will a 15" rim fit if i do a disk conversion?
    Can I get a 5.5 conversion for the 14 bolt?
    So what will I need to do to keep the same WMS?

    Any other things I should be worried about
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    An easier way to go would be to get a 60 out of a Dakota,or Durango 5.9 RT. Stock, they are lockers with 3:92 gears and disc brakes, 35 spline and non floaters. You could use 15" wheels, although the trucks came with 17". They do have a wacky 6 bolt metric pattern, but you could have the axles and rotors re-drilled (use race car threaded studs). These rears are pretty much the same as what came in Hemi cars of the 60's. They are not all that easy to find, but they are out there.
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    15" rim will fit with the disc conversion.
    the bolt pattern I'm not sure of.

    side thought, what size tire would you be running? a tire big enough to clear a 14bolt with being shaved (37"+) is getting close to max size for a D44...

    another option would be to find a Ford E250 with a D60U, large diameter spindles to fit D70 shafts, moves right to 35spline if you match up the gears too. and the clearance is a little better than a 14bolt.
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    All of the 5.9 R/Ts I've ever seen have the standard Chrysler 9.25 rear end and are 29 spline or something similar. I've never seen any Dakota or Durango with anything even close to a d60.

    You can get 5 on 5.5" hubs and brakes already drilled for the 14b from a few vendors on Pirate.
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    Ya, the cc 14 is 63 so if that works for you.

    15" will work with a little shaving of the caliper.

    Couple conversions out there. It says shortens width 2.25 but thought i read some where that it lengthens C&C models. I'd make a phone call.
    http://www.rpmoffroad.com/product/11...Bolt+Hubs.html
    http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart...&idcategory=11

    Your Rubi TJ is 60.5 so with spacers is 63". If the above hubs actually shorten the overall width 2.25 that would be perfect.

    Your spacers are 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5 correct
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    Quote Originally Posted by spike1 View Post
    Will a 15" rim fit if i do a disk conversion? - Not with normal 3/4 ton rotors and calipers
    Can I get a 5.5 conversion for the 14 bolt? - You will need conversion hubs! The 4 1/4" hub pilot on the 5 x 5.5 wheel is too small for the bearing hub and there is next to no room to machine down the OD of the bearing hub. You are WAY further ahead to swap wheels and go to the 8 x 6.5 pattern.
    So what will I need to do to keep the same WMS? - The CC 14B is as narrow as it gets. So, if you need it narrower that that, you will have to start chopping or look for a different axle.

    Any other things I should be worried about
    An FF 14B is the wrong axle to start with if need something narrower and a 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern.

    Edit: Brain fart. I don't ever recall an RT Dakota/Durango being equipped with anything but Corporate 9.25. Tried a search and found nothing to suggest otherwise....but I didn't look too hard. There is nothing wrong with a 9.25 but I would not consider it a swap-worthy axle as it has little to no aftermarket support.
    Last edited by Stickybongsmoking; 02-28-2011 at 12:22 PM.
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    ^

    Wouldn't a 9" also fit the bill for keeping 5 on 5.5, the WMS and keeping on the same strength platform of your front D44?
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    ^ Well, it could be....but the OP didn't say what tire size he was planning on running. 37"+, tons would be a better choice if it is a wheeler. You can definitely make the 9" work.....you just need deeper pockets.

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    Right now I have a rear D44 with ARB and chromoly shafts. I broke the rear stock locker last year so I upgraded to the ARB. I am trying to build something that I wont break or break the pocket book. I plan to still keep 37 to 38" tires

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    ^
    IMO (for what it's worth), chromo D44s front and rear you should be fine on 37s unless you drive like a madman and have really heavy tires.

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    I think a 14 would be decent as long as you shave the lip and would match up nice with spacers on the front. Only problem of course on the cheap is the $400 hubs. A bonus though would be if you ever wanted to go 60 front you could slap the old hubs back on, grab an 80's 60, shave 2.5 inches off the passenger side and run the 70's style stock inner shaft. But again, you'd then need some 1-1.5" spacers for the 14. Or shorten the 60 a few more and grab a custom inner shaft, probably work out the same price wise anyway. Guess it depends on the desired width.

    9" in the width you are looking for are from old cars like lincolns for example but none came with the 31 spline big bearings.

    Early/Mid 70's ford f100's i think and like 70's dodge cuda, challenger, road runner, ect. had rear 60's in the 61-61.5ish range but where semifloat.

    All really depends on what you want to do and i guess what you can find. And for cheapness is there a possibility of matching gears from something? What gears do you have now?

    Just some of my random thoughts from past hunting experiences.

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by }{avoc View Post
    ^
    IMO (for what it's worth), chromo D44s front and rear you should be fine on 37s unless you drive like a madman and have really heavy tires.
    That isn't worth much to me! I broke absolutely everything there is to break on a rear D44 with 35's. After upgrading everything one part at a time with premium hardware, I broke 3 ring and pinion sets in a row. First break, I cleaned a bunch of teeth off of the ring gear and bent the Detroit. The next two breaks, I sheared the yoke off of the pinion - and yes, there was an anit wrap bar in place. After I sheared the second pinion, I had enough....I even had that gear set cryo'd. Built a 60 for the rear and all of those problems disappeared instantly. D44's have their limits. 37's on a wheeler is pushing the limits of what D44 will deal with. If you are just going to mall cruise and play in the mud, you can certainly make a D44 work. Go play in the rocks locked up....that is another story...

    That said, I had great luck with the my front D44 at the time. It had an ARB and 4340 inners and NOS Scout stubs and I never had a single breakage with it on 35's.

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    I had great luck with the my front D44 at the time. It had an ARB and 4340 inners and NOS Scout stubs and I never had a single breakage with it on 35's.
    that rite there is whut u call the gold information for people building 44 fronts
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    I broke my rear locker with 37 and I am not that hard on the pedal. I am hoping the 44 up front with RCV shafts will hold up. I figure I could sell the rear for a lot more if it is not broken, so why not take the plunge now

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    For the record. I owned a 99 5.9 RT Dakota, short box std cab, and it came with the 60, complete with Detroit locker and 3:92's. The only option with the 5.9 package was rear disc brakes. I have looked under several of them, regardless of the body configuration, including Durango, and they have ALL had 60's, and are 63", tip to tip. They use 9.9" x17" wheels, reversed inboard, with 7" backspacing, and with the right tires, and a mild chip, they run a low 12 1/4 mile. Which is why they need a 60. With slicks, mine pulled the front wheels in first and second gear.
    I grant you, those with lesser engines have the small rear, and there are a lot of them with RT decals added on later. It is a "car style" diff, with non floater axle bearings, but it is a true 60, and has 60 cast into the pinion pumpkin

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    Quote Originally Posted by kidstf View Post
    For the record. I owned a 99 5.9 RT Dakota, short box std cab, and it came with the 60, complete with Detroit locker and 3:92's. The only option with the 5.9 package was rear disc brakes. I have looked under several of them, regardless of the body configuration, including Durango, and they have ALL had 60's, and are 63", tip to tip. They use 9.9" x17" wheels, reversed inboard, with 7" backspacing, and with the right tires, and a mild chip, they run a low 12 1/4 mile. Which is why they need a 60. With slicks, mine pulled the front wheels in first and second gear.
    I grant you, those with lesser engines have the small rear, and there are a lot of them with RT decals added on later. It is a "car style" diff, with non floater axle bearings, but it is a true 60, and has 60 cast into the pinion pumpkin
    ^ Link, pics, info on the R/T D60? Never seen it for myself and I couldn't find much info in my search.

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