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Thread: amc v8 into a yj frame

  1. #21
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    Like Pav1 said the T176 is the strongest bolt up available. Another good option is the T18' it would come with a dana 20 but the overall gearing would be lower and it is a plenty strong combo. An NP435 is a direct bolt up to your bellhousing but you would need an adapter to attach it to the dana 300.

    If your going for a 401 for added power there are many better and cheaper ways to get more power. In my opinion the most cost effective power is a 5.3 vortec. It would cost you a lot more money to get the same power from a 401 and you get all the added benefits of fuel injection, better mileage, readily available parts etc. The 5.3 is very easy to wire up and make run in a jeep only about 5 wires to connect and you retain all factory function of the engine.

    I'm not trying to sway your decision just pointing out options you may not have considered. To me the AMC V8 is an ancient dinosaur very expensive to build and performance parts are limited and expensive, all this for less performance, poor oiling, cam walking, and old technology. Don't get me wrong I'm a die hard CJ guy and I like the AMC era jeeps but when it comes to these engine there are better ways to go. Trust me I am speaking from experience.
    Don't let fear and common sense get in your way.

    1985 CJ7 Aluminum tub, 31's
    1985 CJ7 Fiberglass, lift, 33's, 5.3 Vortec, NV3550
    1985 CJ7 All steel
    Doing my part to keep these old CJs alive

  2. #22
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    ^^ agreed

    The jeep cj 4cyl iron duke engine has a chevy bellhousing pattern on the front. I will allow you to connect the CJ trannys to a chevy v8 motor. They're a little rare, but out there. Try car-part.com

    Then I'd do the t176 (easy to get) and the dana 300 (which you have) IMHO.

  3. #23
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  4. #24
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    for some reason my last post disapeared. im trying to stay with a stock drivetrain. kennuck do you know what tranny xcase that kijiji link is? how about this? http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ272076758

  5. #25
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    The one in the link I sent you looks like a T176 dana 300 combo to me. The one in the link you sent looks like a T-150 dana 20 combo, probably out of a J truck since it has the J shift pattern box on the t-case.

  6. #26
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    thanks kennuck gunna give him a call later on. if it is a t-176 it should bolt right up to the block correct?

  7. #27
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    Yup its a straight bolt in. Just be aware, It looks like the shifter boot on that one is torn, if its been sitting outside for a while it will be full of water and may need rebuilding. Check to make sure the case is not cracked from freezing too. Good Luck.
    http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t176.htm

  8. #28
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    just got back from picking the t-176 up. all the gears ingage all spin freely. no grinding sounds. there was a bit of water inside the shifter arm. gunna drain it tmw.couldnt find any signs that its been leaking. so hopefully i dont have to rebuild them.

  9. #29
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    PM sent

  10. #30
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    do you think this clocking ring is any good?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-...item2c5bbce0ba
    as soon as i get the dana 300 clocked i can install the transmission

  11. #31
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    The problem with these clocking rings is that you lose your pilot engagement and seal engagement. Then you'll have leaks. I'm sure lots of guys will pipe in and say they never had any problems but I couldn't get it to work. Look at the pilot ring on the T-case it is only approx. 1/4" so a 3/8" spacer causes problems. The best way to do it is to drill and tap new holes in the t-case and plug the old holes. The hard part is locating the holes. So use the clocking ring to determine hole location, bolt it on and locate new holes drill and tap then sell the clocking ring to the next guy.

  12. #32
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    hey kennuck you will probably know the answer to this. on the dana 300 mating surface there are 2 studs and 4 bolts holding it onto the tranny. are the 2 studs removable? i dont want to try and damage the threads incase they arnt.

  13. #33
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    Yep the studs are removable. Double nut them and the should screw out without too much trouble.

  14. #34
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    They should come out easily, especially if the transfercase is soaked in oil like most cj cases.

  15. #35
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    okay thanks. also what did you mean by pilot engagement?

    ---------- Post added at 08:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:52 PM ----------

    strangely this one is completely dry? and was still full of oil

  16. #36
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    There is a proud ring of metal about 5" dia on the T-case just inside the bolt circle of the mounting bolts that fits snug into the back of the tranny opening. This centers the T-case on the tranny and lines up the input and output shaft. Its only about a 1/4" long and when you use a clocking ring it no longer engages into the back of the tranny. This leaves the input shaft to do all the locating and can add side load to the bearings and seals.

    ---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ----------

    The t-case was free of water because they are sealed separately, the t-case input shaft seals the tranny. You can see the seal in the back of the tranny when you remove the t-case from the trans.

  17. #37
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    ok thanks kennuck.

  18. #38
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    I know the Novak ones have a lip on them to help locate the center.

    http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_153.htm


  19. #39
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    FTW most cheap ones dont have the lip, if your gonna get one get one like Pav1 shows here.

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