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Thread: 1991 YJ Buildup- D44s, 6,0L LQ4/700r4/NP241C + more

  1. #1
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    1991 YJ Buildup- D44s, 6,0L LQ4/700r4/NP241C + more

    Been on the site for a bit now, and havent posted much about my jeep aside from my into post.

    Its starting to get nice out now, so I can start working on it again.

    I moved out here from Edmonton, Alberta at the end of March. Was with the CF and completed my contract and now in Orillia. I was working on base at the auto shop, and was working outside, so as you can imagine, it was a bit cold considering I worked on it through the winter out there as well.

    Bought the jeep a few years back off a truck shop that used it as a show jeep.

    Took out the diffs and switched them for some Dana 44s out of a wagoneer. The 2.5L wasn't cutting it with just 33" tires, so I decided on going big with a 6.0L. Have it mated to 700R4 and an NP241C with a super short SYE from Jb conversions.

    Right now its sitting on 35s that im looking to sell or trade to get bigger tires as I under-estimated how big it would be.

    With the diffs I went sprung over, with the 4" pro-comp lift springs that I had on it when I bought it. Put in a 2" block in the rear, and add-a-leaf to the front to make it level. 2" body lift to compensate for the size of the engine going in.

    I just got my PCM in after being re-flashed before moving out here, so I just have to wire it up and it should run. Only issue is im not that confident with wiring and may need to enquire help from someone with a bit more knowledge on that. For the dash I got a dakota digital dash ill be running with it now, that I again have to wire up still.

    Put in a sound bar as well as some front-mount speakers that are just above the rearview mirror. (ill have to snap some pics of these).

    Still to come, id like to make the tailgate fold down rather than keep it re-fridgerator style. Getting rid of the roof rack and hard top and going to switch them out for a soft top and/or bikini, windjammer, dust cover (dont really use the backseat too often).

    Im sure ive forgotten some stuff, but ill update as need be. Im still fairly new to the jeep world. By no means am i a mechanic, just an average joe that likes to tackle big projects.

    Cheers ,
    cody

  2. #2
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    we want pics....... sounds like a great build PICS

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    Definitely sounds like a fun project, although I wonder how long the D44's will hold up to an LQ4.

  4. #4
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    I figure it'll get me by until I can afford some rockwells :P

    I dont have many pics, heres the few I do have.

    The d44s are 4.88 gearing, disc brakes all around and crossover steering.


    Here it is as I picked it up:





    700r4 with the lokar long shift on it

    And pretty much as it is now, only difference is hood/grill back on, roof rack off, and not in freaking Edmonton





    I still got the stock fenders with it, but i like the look of tube fenders, so im thinking If i can find someone with a bender or pick one up myself then i might crank out something simplistic for the front.

  5. #5
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    I ordered new door locks off ebay almost a year ago, and finally put them in today.Turns out the reason they werent locking/unlocking wasnt because of the locks, but due to someone deciding to put in zip ties to keep the doors always unlocked. This could be due to the person not having the metal lever that goes from the lock to the door mechanisms.

    So i found a piece of steel similiar to the width of what should have been there and bent it to fit... Doors now lock and unlock; great success!

    Going to pick up some fiberglass today, i welded in new floor panels, but the welder was a bit of a piece, and im not exactly the greatest welder either, so it looks like poop :P. So im going to put a layer of fiberglass to cover the ugliness and any seems that i may have missed. Although will be cutting out "Jeep" in sheet metal to make an embossed "Jeep" on the flooring. I dunno how it'll turn out, but ive had visions that it'll be cool-ish.

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    one concern matting the glass over the metal, trapping moisture!
    on the off chance you cover a few pin holes and any wet gets in, it's gonna stay there and rot... which won't be a problem until you notice it years down the road.
    insert something witty here

  7. #7
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    Good point, that never crossed my mind.

    Im still pretty new at body repairing things. Maybe ill just have to clean up the welds a bit and try to make it look as pretty as possible, and just cover my horrible welding job with a mat :P

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    Got my new tires today .

    They look a little bit more to size with the jeep :P



    Heres how they look compared to the old ones, rims arent as nice.... but o well, wont matter when covered in mudd

  9. #9
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    Rims are easy to change later, if you find you don't like 'em THAT much...

    I'm just going over your build list here, and I'm a bit worried about how much lift you've got in there. The body lift, you need for engine clearance, but 4" springs set spring over, with blocks and add-a-leafs? With no stretch of the wheel base I'm wondering how you're going to put drive shafts in it. I'm guessing you'll need a specialty shop like Woods or High-Angle just to get something that'll spin? 2" block and spring-over will add a lot of axle wrap, which with the lift springs you may be okay but I suspect you'll need a traction bar too. Rockwells are way overkill (and massively heavy) to be slung under a stock-frame Jeep from what I've read. D60's or 60/14-bolt will handle the power and the tires without getting ridiculous.

    Anyway, it looks like a very ambitious project and you've got a good start at it already. Keep at it, the warm weather will be here soon. Or eventually...
    ....-Noltz
    '91 Frankenheep Edition. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, 35" KM2's, Titan 12k, ... gone.
    '95 4Runner SR5. Air-Lift bags, OBA & 8K Winch, DD... gone.

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    Thanks, I appreciate the comments.

    I got a traction bar kit sitting waiting to go in, just gotta pick up a welder so i can actually put it on.

    The driveshafts are definitely going to be a pain. That was the reasoning behind the super short SYE, it actually gave mea good chunk of space which I needed. I have the rear driveshaft already (it is a tom woods... However, it is a used one that i picked up off Pirate from someone elses project. It is a bit on the long side, so I need to get it shortened at a driveline shop.)

    When I ordered the SYE kit i planned on 1350, so i ordered the non-cv 1350 yoke.... big mistake :P. Extra monehy for that kit, and the yoke is useless to me. Luckily, the guy i bought the driveshaft off of was getting rid of his yoke as well, so i got the 1310 cv yoke with it for a pretty decent deal, i think it was $150 altogether, plus $40 for the stupid UPS customs fees

  11. #11
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    Im still getting familiar with the area, looking for places that carry checker plate and sheet metal

    I need to re-do my floor panels, and would appreciate some some hints on what gauge to use. I had spare canadian tire sheet metal and used that, but im now re-thinking its going to be weak. The checker plate is going to be for the dash and the inner door skins (and possibly the tailgate if its not too bad of pricing). Also looking for steel mesh for putting behind the grill.

  12. #12
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    You can pop over to my thread to see what I'm doing with the floors. I got a roof panel from a donor 4Runner and it seems a dead match for gauge. I'll measure it for ya on Wednesday. If you're buying sheet, most suggested 14ga to me. Twisted or Mud Sir both have helped me with techniques & supplies. I toyed with the idea of cutting away the floor completely and dropping in a large checker plate and drop it in. I've already cut out and replaced both of my rockers with 1/8" thick steel plates, so my idea was to build a 'subframe' that would support the outer shell of the tub and make the floor completely removeable. Time is not on my side on this, so I scrapped the idea and fixed it conventionally (plus the thick rockers)... but a completely removable floor to access the top of the transmission and transfer case would have been really cool.

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    Your thread was actually what got me started on re-evaluating the flooring situation.

    I do like the idea of a panel that pops off to check the tranny though! Checker plate would look pretty snazzy there as well. I think we have a scrap metal area around here so it might be worth while to see if they have any pieces like that.

  14. #14
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    Well my knowledge on wiring is little to none at all, and i really want to get this 6.0L fired up. Anyone willing to give a hand? Got some beer and pizza for those who do haha.

    Any links or anything of the nature to help with getting it wired up would be fantastic too.

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    Picked up a CJ7 soft top and hardware yesterday! Looks in excellent condition, the windows are clear, not tinted, but thats more than fine with me. Im gunna try and put all the pieces to the puzzle and try to get this thing on today (weather permitting... supposed to be shit, but i see the sun shining already).
    Last edited by koesdibyo; 06-10-2011 at 03:12 PM.

  16. #16
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    Started taking basic measurements for the tube fenders. Decided Im going to be doing some up for both the rear and front now.

    My current flares on the rear are 6" ones, and im still sticking out roughly 4-5" on either side.
    The narrowest part of the hood that is inline with the front part of the tire is aroudn 19-20", so im going to have some wiiiiiide fronts to make.

    What are the rules of Ontario in regards to tires sticking past? I believe in Alberta it was within 1", so im assuming its similiar here?

    As of right now, with my mindset that it should be within an inch, ill probably do some tighter measurements for everything, but approx. 10" wide rear, 20" front.

    Im doing some doodling cuz its fun and im bored for simplistic designs. Recommendations for gauge of steel? I think ill be doing 1.25" HREW for the tubing.
    Does anyone in the Barrie area have a bender that I could use... or pay you to make a few bends for me?

    EDIT:

    Also still looking for a place to buy the metal... and somewhere that carries checker plate as well

  17. #17
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    Thanks to Kennuck for giving me a great link for getting my engine wired up:
    http://www.lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm

    Today I decided to throw everything on the table and get ready... and it turns out all the pins were removed from my PCM connectors.
    And to make matters worse, im color blind haha.

    That being said, i dont even know where to begin in starting to wire it up now. Instead of just following the guideline and removing the unneeded wires from the PCM connector and harness... i now have to find out what wire is what (as all my connectors are still connected), and where it is supposed to be allocated to on the PCM.

    Last edited by koesdibyo; 06-03-2011 at 09:28 PM.

  18. #18
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    I was able to find a link that helped me out a great deal:
    http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...erchanges.html

    But i still have a few wires that im unsure about. As well, as missing the knock sensors.

    Here are a couple pictures of the wires im still unsure about:

    #1 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/wire2.jpg/
    #2 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/wire3c.jpg/
    #3 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/wire4.jpg/
    #4 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/wire5.jpg/
    #5 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/wire6.jpg/

    The issue i am having now is that picture 1 is located near the MAP on my harness, but not listed on the reference site. It looks similiar to the VSS connector, but the "prong" thingys look different. That being said, i dont have a VSS connector on my harness, so by process of elimination i would "assume" this would be it, but i try not to assume anything.
    Also, i have a box of spare wires from who i bought it from, and there is a connector that has the correct prongs of the VSS connector, so i perhaps this wire was removed at some point, and that the mystery wire im guessing is the VSS is actually something completely different, and the VSS looking-wire i found is the true VSS connector?

    Secondly, the 2nd picture i do not know what this is at all, and i have 2 of them on the harness. When removed from the engine, they were both not attached to anything.

    Thirdly, the 3rd pictured wire is on the passenger side of the harness and connects underneath the engine, but i am unsure what it is.

    Fourthly, picture 4/5 is another wire im unsure about. It is the same connection piece as the 3rd picture. However, this wire is on the driver side, by the MAP sensor, and if i remember correctly, attached underneath the cover.


    EDIT: I also am missing CTS, but i dont have air conditioning... is this a neccessary wire to have for an LSx swap?
    Thanks,
    Cody

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    This is mine! Dude the first time you hit the skinny after having a 4 cylinder is going to be a trip, lol! You better stuff the rear 44 with Moly shafts. Your going to need them!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails I likey!.jpg  
    Work hard but play harder!

  20. #20
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    I cant wait! What kind of drivetrain are you running? did you do the wiring yourself or go the smart route of ordering a new harness haha

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