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Thread: Synthetic Question

  1. #1
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    Synthetic Question

    So the guy I bought my 98 z24 off of has been putting synthetic in his car since it was new, so here are my questions:

    I've always heard people say that you can't go from synthetic back to mineral oil, but this says otherwise. Any input on this one?
    http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7007980

    and

    Any brand recommendations for the oil? I've been using GTX in my vehicles and have been happy with it
    young kid learnin the hard way
    90 YJ 4.2L, howell TBI, 4L head, 4"lift with 31x11.5s. broke it, welded it, broke around the welds, welded it again, sold it
    99 grand cherokee, 4.7L. 2" BB, 245/75R16

  2. #2
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    You can switch back to dino oil and it should not cause you any problems.
    There used to be an isse with seals swelling, but with new technology(sp) you can switch back and not have any major problems due to switching.
    #20OF4WD#3476

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  3. #3
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    I run Mobil1 synthetic in pretty much all my vehicles except for one which I run Royal Purple.

    The reason I do this is that when I was racing motocross for a decade and doing my own bike maintainance I ran synthetic in the gearboxes and engine oil for 4-strokes as well as synthetic as the pre-mix in 2-strokes.

    Even running high octane race gas I NEVER blew a motor up. Ever. I would own a bike for 2 or 3 race seasons and race every weekend from April 'til November, practice in between all on the same motor. Then when I sold my bikes it was usually to people I knew very well. One buddy of mine bought a 2000 Suzuki RM125 off me that i'd run for 2 or 2.5 seasons. He owned it an entire year and a half before he decided to pull the top end and have a look. The piston was fine, he just tossed a ring on it because he had it apart and kept running it.

    Those high revving smaller motors go through A LOT of stress. The success I had with synthetics in racing is what made me stick with them in my street vehicles. It could've very well been luck that I never had to do any engine work on my bikes, but with 8 different bikes owned over that time-period i'd say the oil had something to do with it. Especially when I know guys who would re-build every season or every other season. I also only ever replaced one clutch I believe on one of my 125s.

    I dunno, that's my take on it. If it ain't broke, don't change a thing.

    Another reason is how well some of the Mobil Synthetics seem to keep things clean. My girlfriend's dad has a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am with the 3400 V6. Of course the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets went shitty which is very common on those engines. I pulled it apart and he'd run nothing but cheap dino oil at regular 5k intervals. The motor was FULL of black paste on all of the pushrods etc. I ran Mobil Synthetic through that car and had to later pull it apart again due to the head gasket (of course replacing the upper & lower intake manifold gaskets only added pressure on a slightly leaky head gasket). The thing was spotless. You'd be suprised how clean it can actually make a motor.

    So I don't base it on advertising or any other B.S. it's all just personal experience.
    Last edited by NINE-T-1-RENEGADE; 04-26-2011 at 11:33 AM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input guys, I've never run synthetic but I figure I'll give it a try now. I go along the same ideology of if it aint broke don't fix it as well so I'll likely hunt around for some synthetic on sale. The oil is still relatively clean surprisingly, I just want to switch the oil so I have it on my own maintenance schedule.

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