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Thread: MY CTD/Jeep tow rig/Camper hauler

  1. #1
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    MY CTD/Jeep tow rig/Camper hauler

    My CTD is a 95 Dodge 4x4 3/4 ton with the 12 valve. It is a club cab and has 8 foot box. 5 spd with low bull 1st gear, dana 60 front and 80 rear. I have an ac not working at the moment, cruise, tilt, int wiper, manual windows and doors. It has 215000 km which I hear is nothing to these diesels.

    I got the truck 4 months ago for great price cause it needed front end work, body and paint. I wasn't to fond of the flat bed so I bought a 94 gaser for parts truck. I kept the truck box,tailgate, both fenders, truck cap and other odds and ends. I manage to get $300 for scrap, I payed $500.

    I've been busy and spending lots of money replacing parts as needed and had the truck painted ''deep water blue pearl''. The truck is comming along and I can't wait to tow my Renegade.

    My plan is to put a large truck camper and flat bed my Rene. The heep is getting old(20 yrs) next year. I get a little worried driving her home after playing all weekend. I'm going to drive her to the East coast next year.

    Anyone else here have this old 12 valver? Any tips/ what to watch out for?

    Everyone likes pics. Pics of before and after.
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    92 RENEGADE

    ECNALUBMA NA SI PEEJ REHTHO YM

    82 Toyota long bed

  2. #2
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    more pics

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  3. #3
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    pics truck painted

    Tires and rims combo on the truck are temporary for now. They are BFG k/o 33/12.5/16.5 on wagon wheels. They stick out to much. I have Hummer rims that the center are bore out and painted black. What do you guys think looks better? If I keep the old steelies I need flares. If I use my hummer rims I need tires.

    I just rewired the trailer lights and installed a class V hitch. The old trailer wires was a big mess.

    Yesterday I was going to bed line my truck box with duplicolour/kevlar. I change my mind and going to reuse my plastic liner. I'm going to protect my new paint with a cap rubber seal and use some clear protective tape. I need to cut larger holes on the sides of the liner so I can clamp my trifold tonneau.

    List of to do:
    -change all the fluids
    -head liner
    -crown check
    -BHAF big honkin air filter
    -4'' exhaust
    -turn up the fuel plate. Im going to call you CTD NUT(Shane)
    -ac running again
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    -turn up the fuel plate. Im going to call you CTD NUT(Shane)
    No problem. I actually have a #100 plate cut and ready to go. Just exchange your old plate with the #100 (I use your old stocker as a core to grind new ones)

    Anyway, the truck looks like a solid foundation for a good heavy puller. But a couple things to keep in mind:

    1) 33's and hauling heavy will not be great with 3.54's. It will be hard on the clutch and 5th gear with the extra fuel. 4.10's would be better or drop the tire down to a 265/75R16. Not a deal breaker...just not ideal. This truck could have either gear ratio.

    2) You must run an egt and boost gauge when the new fuel cam plate is installed.

    3) Consider the 4" exhaust sooner than later if the new plate is installed. The 4" downpipe really helps keep egt's in check with moderate additional fueling.

    4) Depending on the condition of the stock clutch, you *might have to replace it sooner than later so keep that in the back of your mind.
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    They are great trucks and great motors. Try a forum like cumminsforum.com and you will find all the help you could ever want. Front ends are not the best and I HIGHLY suggest you buy or build a steering box brace. You won't notice it on county roads and speeds under 80kmh much but on the why in tight traffic you will realize how much steering play you have. BD power in BC makes a good one. I can't remember their website address off the top of my head. I did a writeup on one I built but once again I'd have to check to see if I can find the link.

    Check fuel lines for any deterioration. They suck not push fuel from the tank so they can look good on the outside but be crap and suck air which can be a huge pita trying to diagnose starting issues. Keep on top of fuel filter changes. Also do some reading on KDP- killer dowel pin. Not sure if CTDnut has made note of these items to you but worth the research.

    Good luck.

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    Looks great! The frame and suspension makes a big difference.. who did the frame/suspension prep and paint?

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    My plan is to run the hummer rims 265/75/17 and sell the BFGs/wagon wheels. By running 100 plate will that give me 100hp? Haven't done my research but I have been lurking on the cummins forum. Going to join the forum. Is it plug and play, can I drive the truck to your place and change it?

    ---------- Post added at 09:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    They are great trucks and great motors. Try a forum like cumminsforum.com and you will find all the help you could ever want. Front ends are not the best and I HIGHLY suggest you buy or build a steering box brace. You won't notice it on county roads and speeds under 80kmh much but on the why in tight traffic you will realize how much steering play you have. BD power in BC makes a good one. I can't remember their website address off the top of my head. I did a writeup on one I built but once again I'd have to check to see if I can find the link.

    Check fuel lines for any deterioration. They suck not push fuel from the tank so they can look good on the outside but be crap and suck air which can be a huge pita trying to diagnose starting issues. Keep on top of fuel filter changes. Also do some reading on KDP- killer dowel pin. Not sure if CTDnut has made note of these items to you but worth the research.

    Good luck.
    I change the track bar, tie rod ends,steering stabalizer,drag link inner and outer. All the parts are lifetime. Truck steering is tight suprisingly. I've been doing some reading on the cummins forum.

    What kind of millage should I be getting? On my first fill up 95L I only got around 650 km when the fuel light came on. That's when I still have all the extra weght(flat bed,tool box full of junk,heavy bumper)

    ---------- Post added at 09:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:15 AM ----------

    Thanks for the compliments. My body guy sand blasted the frame while the box was off and sprayed tremclad. The truck is getting crown check next week.

    ---------- Post added at 09:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:22 AM ----------

    How much reserve fuel on this truck truck when the fuel light comes on? My second fill up was 105L the light just came on. I think I have 132L tank.

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    You have the 132 or 135 L tank. So, there is quite a bit of reserve fuel when your light is coming on. Driving an additional 100 KM unloaded shouldn't be an issue.

    I believe the 95 5 spd truck had the 175 or 180 HP pump. If memory serves me correctly, that pump had something like .170 delivery valves which is a good bump over the 160 HP pump. The biggest delivery valves were .181 in the 215 pump. Bottom line, your pump with a #100 plate and AFC set on kill will certainly be able to provide a quite a bit more than 100 HP worth of additional fuel. This is where plate position and AFC tuning with gauges comes in so as to not overdo it and make a smokey freight train that surges, runs too hot, overspeeds the turbo and belches black smoke, eats the clutch, etc.

    Definitely get a DSS when you can. They really help prolong the life of the box and act as additional frame cross member where the box is mounted. More responsive steering is the result. I have run one on every CTD Dodge I have owned.

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    just a suggestion do the bed liner paint and them drop in your plastic bed liner ..is your fuel pump mechanical or electrical
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    Injector pump and lift pump are both mechanical on a 95.

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    ok was not sure

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    ....

    Shane everything you said is Chinese to me but I would just have to agree with you.

    I needed the extra money so I returned the DYI bedliner. I would have done what you said. I ended cutting up the upper lip on the plastic liner, screwed it to the side.
    Last edited by PRIORITY 4; 09-26-2011 at 02:05 PM. Reason: spel

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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    Shane everything you said is Chinese to me but I would just have to agree with you.
    Lol. Cliff notes: we can make it run VERY well but you really should have a couple of the items I mentioned.

    This is a lot easier to explain in person when the AFC is disassembled.

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    There is lots of info on cummins forum regarding plate changes, drawings ect. I am not sure if I still have any but they are there if you search. it makes much more sense when you have a picture.

    ---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 PM ----------

    Dss?

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    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    Dss?
    DSS = Darins Steering Stabilizer - named after the guy from Solid Steel Mfg. that designed and built the first Dodge steering box stabilizer. Now at least 5 companies have copied it but he was the first. Kind of cool because Solid Steel is a Canadian company. Back in the day, the DSS was the commonly recognized acronym for this part among Dodge/Cummins enthusiasts....I guess not so much anymore!

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    DSS - Dodge Steering Stabilizer

    see CTD nut above^
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    Thanks for all the info guys. Keep them comming. I just look up Solid Steel Ind and the closest dealer is Cornwall. I'm getting a quote for price and delivery.
    H8towork does Shane have these?

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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    I just look up Solid Steel Ind and the closest dealer is Cornwall. I'm getting a quote for price and delivery.
    That is the guy I got all of mine from as well....good, no BS guy to deal with.

    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    H8towork does Shane have these?
    See below.

    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    Definitely get a DSS when you can....I have run one on every CTD Dodge I have owned.

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    I cant believe that nobody has mentioned the fact that the Hummer rims were machined with a mastercraft router ...... Bernie you're awesome!!!!
    This looks like a solid tow rig - nice truck, perhaps next time we convoy up to roadkill we can break 80km/hr
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    hey pnut how are things? i was on my 4th rim when the router bit bearing xploded. took it back for an exchange at our great canadian tire no problem ask.
    hahaha right on next year the dodge should be ready for the task.

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