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Thread: TMR Customs "The Blueprint" TJ Build

  1. #121
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    I dont get why the pics are messed... but.... thanks for the info.
    My latest project... Collection of Parts

    Other stuff... Building a doubler, D300 Flip kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Deadman 94 xj View Post
    "Coil springs are for ballpoint pens and pogo sticks".
    ебут раком

  2. #122
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    Pulling up an old thread due to sheer frustrations

    I am in the process of building something very similar and am starting to run into clearance issues and wanted to pick your brains...

    For the rear I am setting up:
    About a 4" stretch
    Triangulated
    14 bolt C&C
    40" tires on beads
    14" ORI's
    Custom rear cutout openings very similar to yours (I.E. Not Comp cuts)

    I want it to sit fairly low so that i can get it in and out of the garage. Currently the frame at the skidplate is sitting at 24 5/8" from the underside to the ground..

    At this point, i MIGHT have about 3/4" upward travel before i am either:

    A - Hitting the frame with the LCA's
    B - Hitting the underside of the tub with the UCA's
    C - Hitting the rear cross member with the 14B.


    I have no issues notching the cross member (Was going to regardless).
    I would consider modifying the floor of the tub to accommodate the UCA's.
    I have no intentions of notching the frame

    Did you have any such issues?

    ----------------
    On another note, i will be running an ATLAS.. Did you have to run a body lift to make it all fit? It appears you did buy one based on the thread, but wondered if you installed the body lift or not and if so was it because it is suggested to do so or was it because you had to for clearance...



    Love the build.!!!


    Cheers,
    RIP OD, YOU'LL BE MISSED.... BUT that's OK 'cuz you've been REPLACED !!!

  3. #123
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    TMR Customs "The Blueprint" TJ Build

    Quote Originally Posted by countryboy View Post
    Pulling up an old thread due to sheer frustrations

    I am in the process of building something very similar and am starting to run into clearance issues and wanted to pick your brains...

    For the rear I am setting up:
    About a 4" stretch
    Triangulated
    14 bolt C&C
    40" tires on beads
    14" ORI's
    Custom rear cutout openings very similar to yours (I.E. Not Comp cuts)

    I want it to sit fairly low so that i can get it in and out of the garage. Currently the frame at the skidplate is sitting at 24 5/8" from the underside to the ground..

    At this point, i MIGHT have about 3/4" upward travel before i am either:

    A - Hitting the frame with the LCA's
    B - Hitting the underside of the tub with the UCA's
    C - Hitting the rear cross member with the 14B.

    I have no issues notching the cross member (Was going to regardless).
    I would consider modifying the floor of the tub to accommodate the UCA's.
    I have no intentions of notching the frame

    Did you have any such issues?
    ----------------
    On another note, i will be running an ATLAS.. Did you have to run a body lift to make it all fit? It appears you did buy one based on the thread, but wondered if you installed the body lift or not and if so was it because it is suggested to do so or was it because you had to for clearance...

    Love the build.!!!
    Cheers,
    1 - We're at approx 25-3/4" to the bottom of the frame rail.

    2 - Definitely no interference between the LCA's and the bottom of the frame. What rear 4 link brackets are you running?

    3 - The UCA's are VERY close to hitting the tub at full bump. Nothing a little hammer or self clearance wouldn't fix if it was an issue.

    4 - No, the 14 Bolt clears the rear crossmember without issue. Our rear is stretched approx 7"

    5 - No body lift with the Atlas. It's clocked as high as possible, and we run our 3" drop Belly Up Skid Plate & Universal Trans Mount Kit.

    Head on over to Throttle Happy or Pirate, search the same thread title, and you'll find our build thread. All the original pictures are there, and there are a lot of pictures of the Jeep sitting at full bump. I'm sure the pics will help you out.

    Any other questions just ask, we're here to help - keep in mind I'm leaving for KOH tomorrow and will be back on the 10th.

    Cheers.

    TMR CUSTOMS - THE BRANDS YOU WANT FROM THE GUYS YOU TRUST!

    120 Harry Walker Pkwy N, Newmarket ON, L3Y 7B2 - www.tmrcustoms.ca - 905 235 8671 - sales@tmrcustoms.com

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMR Customs View Post
    1 - We're at approx 25-3/4" to the bottom of the frame rail.
    2 - Definitely no interference between the LCA's and the bottom of the frame. What rear 4 link brackets are you running?
    3 - The UCA's are VERY close to hitting the tub at full bump. Nothing a little hammer or self clearance wouldn't fix if it was an issue.
    4 - No, the 14 Bolt clears the rear crossmember without issue. Our rear is stretched approx 7"
    5 - No body lift with the Atlas. It's clocked as high as possible, and we run our 3" drop Belly Up Skid Plate & Universal Trans Mount Kit.

    Head on over to Throttle Happy or Pirate, search the same thread title, and you'll find our build thread. All the original pictures are there, and there are a lot of pictures of the Jeep sitting at full bump. I'm sure the pics will help you out.

    Any other questions just ask, we're here to help - keep in mind I'm leaving for KOH tomorrow and will be back on the 10th.

    Cheers.

    Thanks!

    Yeah, reviewed both builds.. But i didn't get any shots of clearance on the tub or frame rails..

    1 - So, what is the actual height of say the cage or windshield at static height.. Curious as you have about an 1" more of clearance on the frame...

    2 - I am using Clayton brackets. What i have noticed is that with Claytons, the LCA mount at the frame sits directly under the actual frame, whereas yours seem to sit inboard of the frame. Is this correct? I wished i had picked up your 4-link setup and 14bolt / pinion guard.... Ah well......

    3 - OK . I think that if i were to lower my current truss about an inch closer to the diff, that'll help...

    4 - That's odd. I am only at about 4 and, while i have not yet flexed it out complety (Due to the fact i am being limited by hitting the frame), it appears I would hit the crossmember.

    5 - Interesting.. So far everything i have read tells me i need a BL. Mine is clocked flat and will be running behind a HEMI / 545RFE. With that said, a 1" BL would provide additional clearance that i seem to severely need !!


    I will give you guys a shout today.. I had thought you were already gone !!!


    Thanks again.

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by countryboy View Post
    Thanks!

    Yeah, reviewed both builds.. But i didn't get any shots of clearance on the tub or frame rails..

    1 - So, what is the actual height of say the cage or windshield at static height.. Curious as you have about an 1" more of clearance on the frame...

    2 - I am using Clayton brackets. What i have noticed is that with Claytons, the LCA mount at the frame sits directly under the actual frame, whereas yours seem to sit inboard of the frame. Is this correct? I wished i had picked up your 4-link setup and 14bolt / pinion guard.... Ah well......

    3 - OK . I think that if i were to lower my current truss about an inch closer to the diff, that'll help...

    4 - That's odd. I am only at about 4 and, while i have not yet flexed it out complety (Due to the fact i am being limited by hitting the frame), it appears I would hit the crossmember.

    5 - Interesting.. So far everything i have read tells me i need a BL. Mine is clocked flat and will be running behind a HEMI / 545RFE. With that said, a 1" BL would provide additional clearance that i seem to severely need !!

    I will give you guys a shout today.. I had thought you were already gone !!!

    Thanks again.
    1 - Looks like 77-3/4" to the top of the windshield frame, excluding the rubber gasket.

    2 - Might be those brackets that are giving you issues. Our LCA mount sits inboard of the frame. I know where you can get them if you want to toss what you have

    3 - Drop the truss as low as you can, ours is pretty tight to the diff.

    4 - I'd deal with the frame interference so you can fully flex it out, then tackle the crossmember.

    5 - Good thing we didn't follow the advice of the internets, we might have only wound up with 2" of stretch in the front instead of 4" with a steering box in the stock location...LOL. I can't comment on the Hemi/trans, but ours fits fine. I'd skip the body lift unless you need it.

    I'm here until 6PM today, and noon tomorrow. Mike left for California last Wednesday...lucky guy!

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