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Thread: Project Sandstorm REMIX

  1. #161
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    Looks awesome buddy I'd gusset up the frame side trackbar mount if you plan on beating on this thing. Coilover mount welded right to the cast C.......Ballsy
    97 TJ - The Build
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  2. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt's_97 View Post
    Looks awesome buddy I'd gusset up the frame side trackbar mount if you plan on beating on this thing. Coilover mount welded right to the cast C.......Ballsy
    I'm thinking the trac-bar should be alright...it is fully welded on the inner side of the frame too....at least the C isn't cast iron....should be fine!

    Got the knuckles back today and the stupid thing needs ball-joints....dammit.
    PAX ARMIS ACQUIRITUR
    99 TJ, HPD60/14B, TMR Customs 3 and 4 link, 40's.

    Project Sandstorm Remix

  3. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Punisher-One View Post
    I'm thinking the trac-bar should be alright...it is fully welded on the inner side of the frame too....at least the C isn't cast iron....should be fine!

    Got the knuckles back today and the stupid thing needs ball-joints....dammit.
    My finger was bleeding for two days (where the nail used to be) because of those god damn knuckles..........Next days I have available that rear end better be in or we better be putting it in. Glad to see you got the transport situation to Ski's all figured out.........who knew a truck would be so friggin hard to find???

    ---------- Post added at 01:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by MattK View Post
    Why isn't it done yet?
    Because you touch yourself at night

  4. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattK View Post
    Why isn't it done yet?

  5. #165
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    So......
    Used a custom "tap-bolt" to clean out the threads for my 14bolt's diff cover....man were those things nasty....took about an hour to clean them all out fully to the point where I could get my bolts to go in nicely...used THE RIGHT STUFF and voila!


    Mounted my dodge 2500 master cylinder along with my adjustable proportioning valve and my B&M roll contol (AKA LineLoc) solenoid "emergency" brake:


    Bent up and flared some lines....this brings the suck.



    Got the new T-case complete with SYE and all appropriate shifter linkage mounted up:

  6. #166
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    **14 BOLT TECH**

    So to install the hubs onto the spindle in the rear I decided to follow one write-up I found on Pirate. Basically tighten the hub nut to 50ft/lbs and spin the assembly. Notice it has a good amount of drag. This is to seat the new bearings/races. Now back it off. Notice it has play. Now re-torque to 35ft/lbs and line up the keyway on the nut and spindle. Insert key. Install snap-ring to keep key in place. Notice how there is NO PLAY up/down in the assembly and there is less drag. Stand back and admire your work.
    So here is how the key/keyway and snap ring look:


    Installed hub/rotor/caliper



    Also notice the shocks are now installed. Yay me.

    Welded up some exhaust:


    Obtained broken two-piece driveshaft and bearing assembly for front from a friend. Due to the offset of the late-model 60 and the design on my 3-link I couldn't get by with a one-piece front driveshaft. The broken one was the right price so I decided to burn it back together and see how long it lasts.



    So now I go back on shift...boo for me...I await steel braided brake line for my flex lines and new rubber line for my rear calipers.....then the rear may *GASP* put tires onto the ground! One can only hope!

  7. #167
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    Looking good buddy! Coming along nicely. I didn't realize you got the ban hammer. lol. I'd run a proper breather tube if a was you. Might be ok if it was a buggy but not street use. Your seals will blow out sooner then later cause there is not enough room for expansion. I ran those too. When i swapped them out i pulled them off and you could hear the diff take a big breath. And that was after being parked for a day. Can only imagine the pressure on the hub seals from going hot to cold quickly while driving. And your driveshaft is gonna break

    Keep up the good work! We might see you the trails this year?

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt's_97 View Post
    And your driveshaft is gonna break

    Keep up the good work! We might see you the trails this year?
    LOL I guess we'll see how the driveshaft holds up....I am hoping to get out this year....I really really want to be at CampNL.

  9. #169
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    Updates.....updates....well.....where should I start?
    So I sat it down on all four tires. Rear coils, shocks, driveshaft, brake-lines, and bumpstops were installed. The front coilovers, brake lines, New REDNECK RAM WTO steering box, steering ram, lines, drag-link, tie-rod, pitman arm, and steering cooler were all installed. Front brakes and hubs were installed.

    I then set out to bench bleed my Dodge Ram 2500 master cylinder. Bit of a messy job without the bleeder kit (do yourself and your floor/boots/pants a favor and buy/use the kit) but overall not hard or much of a PITA really. Installed the master and went to bleed the brakes. Every single hard-line that I bent/flared began to leak. EVERY SINGLE ONE. The front lines were fine as I used braided lines with AN fittings. All the lines to the proportioning valve, the line-loc, the rear brakes, they all leaked. Whatever....I've got to buy about $200 worth of AN line to fix it...not a huge drama.

    Then the kicker....and I am so absolutely unbelievably pissed off right now I can not put into words my anger......I went to bleed my steering system. I filled it using Royal Purple (aka NOT CHEAP) power steering fluid. My ram and box were brand new from West Texas Offroad. The lines were plumbed properly. The ram does not bind. After putting about 3 liters of fluid in and turning the wheel (vehicle off as per the instructions) I hear a loud wet pop. I look at the front of the truck and steering fluid has literally shot ten feet across the floor from the seal on the sector shaft. I then continued to turn and noticed that it only leaks at a certain point. It only leaks halfway between full lock (pass side) and straight. It'll hit a very hard point to turn the wheel and the the fluid squirts out of that seal. The ram is not binding, nothing it hitting anything, and there is no interference of any kind that I can see. I have no idea what the hell is wrong with this. I can tell you I am beyond livid that I was shipped a box from Texas that is faulty. I now have to ship it back, wait for them to fix it, and have it shipped back.

    Unreal.

  10. #170
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    Do you have a part# for these?
    90 YJ. 4link F/R, 16" SAW Airshocks, 32bolt Beadlocks, D60/14bolt, Full Hydro/Hydroboost L67 3.8SC 700r4 NP231/D300
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    I prefer to build it and not buy it, you see it, I probably made it.

  11. #171
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    E5TZ-18183-A
    Took only a day to get from the dealer and if I remember correctly were $25/ea.

  12. #172
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    im happy to see this build is contiuning.
    perservance builds character.

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    Redneck Ram has sent a new box (at their cost) and a call tag to get the old one back (also at their cost). I am happy that they are doing that but still incredibly disappointed that a freshly rebuilt box did not work. It would seem that a few more minutes spent in QC would have helped....however everyone makes mistakes and I guess I am just upset that it will be another week or so before I can get the truck on all 4 tires and started up.
    I ran all new stainless steel braided brake line. All the leaks were taken care of....boy was that a pain in the ass...an EPIC pain in the ass. The leak at the rear banjo bolts was the biggest pain. It took me a good long sit down and stare at the bolt to realize what the problem was...and then I shook my head at the design. The bolt is "stepped" which is the cause of the leak. The side that sits against the banjo fitting has a larger O.D than the side that sits against the caliper..however only 1 sized washer is provided. Thus the one washer is way too large and causes a leak. I hit a couple of parts stores and couldn't find any washers the correct size. I then had a epiphany.....I bought ones slightly too small and using my de-burring tool I widened the I.D until they just fit over the bolt. Then I put the bolts back in and tightened them down. I left them overnight and came back and tightened them down again. Now they don't leak.
    I highly recommend going with braided AN line and AN fittings for your brakes. It took about 15 minutes to run all of the line as opposed to a few hours to cut/bend/flare all the lines that ended up leaking. AN line may cost more but in the end it is done easier, with no leaks, and with no headaches. I have to give a big shout-out to Tim at TMR Customs for hunting down all the random pieces of AN line I needed to connect together to get this done.
    So I'm back at it again today cleaning up little things and just basically in a holding pattern until my steering box comes in. At that point I can start this thing up, and if it doesn't explode or light on fire, I may be able to actually drive it.
    I'll get some pictures of my progress up tonight. I've been lacking on the pictures due to stress.

  14. #174
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    Could pull the ram, put the stock box in for now and just get a workout... you have been saying you aren't getting to the gym as much as you like. Then you could still get to NL
    2010 JK Unlimited Sahara, rubi axles, 35" duratracs, OME lift: Written off, RIP.
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    There Must have been a time when we could have said no.

  15. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizit View Post
    Could pull the ram, put the stock box in for now and just get a workout... you have been saying you aren't getting to the gym as much as you like. Then you could still get to NL
    I thought about that but then I'd have to refill it with power steering fluid, bleed it all, drive it for a bit then drain/fill/bleed it all over again. I don't have an NL ticket and I didn't take the time off of work (due to this problem and knowing I wouldn't have a new box by then) so it's kind of a moot point at this time.

    I've got little stuff like lights, radio, CB, oil change, and a few other things I can do until I get the box so I'll bang that stuff out and hopefully when the new box arrives it's bolt it in and drive this thing finally.

  16. #176
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    One more Q, Where did you source you brake hose? How much $/ft? I have no prob getting fittings through work, but no one can tell my if their industrial hose with last with Brake Fluid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
    One more Q, Where did you source you brake hose? How much $/ft? I have no prob getting fittings through work, but no one can tell my if their industrial hose with last with Brake Fluid.
    TMR Customs....it is all braided line meant for brakes but it comes in fixed lengths...I just told Tim the lengths I needed and he pieced them together for me. It's not cheap but it is SO WORTH IT. It is so simple to run the lines it's worth the cost just in time savings alone. They are all -3 AN fittings.

  18. #178
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    It's getting close man, thanks for the extra hand tossing the new rear bumper on tonight. I'm basically booked solid till NL but when I get home let me know if you need a hand with anything.

  19. #179
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    So many updates so little time!
    It drives....it really does! All the way up to TMR in Newmarket for a little posing with The Blueprint!




    Anyways....on to what I haven't updated!
    I used the rear bumper/frame tie-ins from TMR Customs as my rear bumper....I added the skull, as always, and painted it contrasting OD green:


    Installed the frame tie-ins....they fit perfectly!


    Bolted up the bumper...which required drilling 4 holes into the crossmember!
    Last edited by Punisher-One; 08-31-2012 at 07:12 AM.

  20. #180
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    Re-wired my headlights using 12ga wire, two 30A relays (one for the high-beam and one for the low-beam), wired the relays to be triggered by the factory switch, installed Hella E-code H4 headlamps, and 80w/100w bulbs!



    Pro tip: you can not simply install u-bolt style driveshaft retainers on a stock 14bolt yoke....thus I had to cut 1/2" off the front of the yoke and grind the back down as flat as possible....surprisingly it was not that big of a PITA.



    Then I painted my wheels...OD green of course....and mounted the tires...by hand using pry bars....what a PITA.




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