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Thread: Frame Plates - Opinions Please

  1. #1
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    Frame Plates - Opinions Please

    Need to make some 'fish' plates for my frame, looking for ideas/ opinions on the design

    Build Thread here: http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showt...yj+restoration


    For the outside plates:


    Option 1:

    Simple and keeps the plates from being excessively big but I'm worried about stress causing the frame to crack around the oblong opening in the frame




    Option 2:

    Larger but less likely to crack?




    Option 3: ????


    For the inside plates:

    Should I clearance the bracket on the cross member so an oval shaped plate can fit between it and the frame or should I notch the plate so that it fits around the the bracket on the cross member?

    Other ideas?


  2. #2
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    Option B, and slice the fishplate to go around your crossmember gusset. Perimeter & rosette weld as you've illustrated. Overkill, stronger than anything original.
    Last edited by Noltz; 12-04-2011 at 05:18 PM.
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  3. #3
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    I was leaning towards B as well, I plan to go 3/16" as thats what the ends are made of.

  4. #4
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    Round out all those corners on the plates...it will reduce stress points and as stated above match the thickness of the fishplate with the thickness of the frame.

    oh and option 2 in the pics

  5. #5
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    The frame it's self is 1/8" (?) and the new pieces on the end are 3/16" but the metal I'm using is softer then the metal the frame is made from so in that case 1/8" or 3/16" ?

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    bump for opinions

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    1/8" is fine, but if you have the 3/16's use it, my opinion is the same as noltz. And i agree with Pav1 round all your corners

    Luke
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  8. #8
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    yep, I'd do the 3/16 as well considering you said it was a little "softer"

  9. #9
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    it's a frame. use your "softer" metal for non-structural things. thicker steel DOES NOT mean it is stronger or better. spend a few bucks and bye some "cold-rolled" steel. option #2 looks okay for outside of frame. Noltz's edit for the inside looks good. whatever you do, the fishplates MUST NOT start/end in the same spot on the inside and outside (ie plate NOT the same length, staggered)
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  10. #10
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    Make sure you pre heat the frame weld area to around 400F before welding. Weld in sections (opposite) and allow the welded areas to cool as slow as possible.
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    Any kind of fish plate without a 90 degree corner is better. The whole reason they use the fish mouth design is so you dont get a "notch" or "stress riser" at the 90, and it increases the weld surface. Also rosette/plug welds dont hurt either.

    16 gauge is perfect for a frame repair if done correctly

    ---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by rhw View Post
    Make sure you pre heat the frame weld area to around 400F before welding. Weld in sections (opposite) and allow the welded areas to cool as slow as possible.
    You need to preheat the gauge steel before welding? Really?
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    3/16? Pre heat frame? Hooo soooo, you guys so crazy.... lol. But i would round the fish plates. On that note, i still haven't fish plated mine since everyone told me to.
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    Preheat is crazy? You're not 'gluing' metal together. You're creating a casting (changing the crystal structure) in a very localized area. ANY weld that is heated and cooled too quickly, including mild steel, will become brittle. Some stuff doesn't matter. Structural, eg. frame, sure does! I inspect and check this stuff for a living, I should know. To all you amateur 'know it all' welders out there: let a 'pro' welder do a job like this. Done on this topic.....

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    So I assume you have a TSSA cert that says you can nondestructive test welds and metals, ie: liquid penetrant etc... This does not make you a welder. You are trying to say that preheating of the parent and added metals is necessary when dealing with 3/16 and less, that is absurd. BTW some of us "Know it all amateurs" have and do possess a few qualifications here n there. Mr Knowitall :stickstongueout:

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    3/16 welded to 1/8

    well i dont know why your "fishplate"
    ing the frame but sounds like if anything
    is going to fail its where the weld will be
    the 1/8 frame at the weld will now be weeker

    btw im just guessing

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    Guess i'm going to die then. Good thing i've got a full cage tied to my frame. Oh sh!t, nevermind, i didn't preheat anything. lol

  18. #18
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    Sooooo anyways I made them. . . minus the notch I need to make for the cross-member if memory serves the outside one is 11" long and the inside 6.5" so the welds wont be at the same point inside and outside. regardless they should prevent the stress from being on any 1 point. I've welded this same 3/16 plate to the frame in other areas as well and so long as you keep the heat more towards the 3/16 both get good penetration. However, this job will be done by a certified welder at the place my frame is getting sand blasted and epoxy coat.

    Last edited by RedNeckYJ; 01-23-2014 at 03:26 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCompany View Post
    3/16 welded to 1/8

    well i dont know why your "fishplate"
    ing the frame but sounds like if anything
    is going to fail its where the weld will be
    the 1/8 frame at the weld will now be weeker
    You are correct hence the "fish plate" The fish mouth design reduces stress risers like previously stated and increases the weld surface.

  20. #20
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    Looking good!!! it should work out well.

    Quote Originally Posted by RedNeckYJ View Post
    Sooooo anyways I made them. . . minus the notch I need to make for the cross-member if memory serves the outside one is 11" long and the inside 6.5" so the welds wont be at the same point inside and outside. regardless they should prevent the stress from being on any 1 point. I've welded this same 3/16 plate to the frame in other areas as well and so long as you keep the heat more towards the 3/16 both get good penetration. However, this job will be done by a certified welder at the place my frame is getting sand blasted and epoxy coat.


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