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Thread: 14 botl cab and chassis in a CJ7

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    14 botl cab and chassis in a CJ7

    Some people seemed interested in the swap when I mentioned it in one of my other threads.

    Pulled this today 1989 cab and chassis... man was the job a PIA. Broke a breaker bar trying to get the lugnuts off. My friends IR impact wouldn't get them off.... 750ft-lbs breaking strength. Ended up leaving one of the sets of duals on until I got home and broke them free with another rachet and chunk of DOM.



    For reference this is 63" WMS to WMS.

    The plans are to move the spring mounts, shave it, maybe get a a locker, get some 3/4 ton dana 44 or 10 bolt 8 lug knuckles to get the front setup and some spacers on the front to get the track width evened out. I am hoping to keep the drum brakes for a year... but that will depend on whether the 15 x8"/ 4"BS beadlocks I got From Staang will fit with out the swap. I am pretty sure from initial measurements they will.

    This is a winter project so I'll update it as I get stuff done but with a wife and two kids, garage time lately is quite hard to come by.

    EDIT*** do I suck at spelling "bolt" or what***

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    Nice! Disk brake swapis cheaper than you might think and will fit with 15" wheels
    CHARLIE DON'T SURF!!
    DINGA DING DANG, MY DANGA LONG LING LONG
    OF4WD#5576
    BOOYAH!!!

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    I know, I know... but I'm cheap. I figure $300+tax for brakes(making my own brackets) plus some sort of driveline brake($100).

    I'd rather have an extra 100lbs of ballast and a locker, than slightly better braking, 100lb weight loss and a welded diff. We'll see once I pull the hubs off. If the brakes are shot, my decision is made up.... not sticking money into the drum brakes.

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    Ruff stuff Caliper Brackets $ 50 or TMR

    if you make a trip over the border, 2- rotors, 2- calipers, pads and pins ran me $ 157.14

    So thats disc brakes for $ 207, those drums are huge and were the first thing I tossed on mine

  5. #5
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    What about the master cylinder? I currently have an E350 one on a YJ booster.... but it is meant for Disc/drum. I have to upgrade to a Vette master or something similar(about $50-75) to get enough fluid to the back don't I?

    I haven't confirmed my price at my Napa for brake parts... but when the dollar is around par they are pretty close to the napaonline.com price (which is $201). Unfortunately I don't get to a border town too often so that means a dedicated trip there... so I'm really going to save maybe $20 when I factor in gas.

    I do like the Ruff stuff brackets because they make a bolt on Cab and chassis bracket.

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    Some good/ bad news-

    Good news-the gears are in good shape, they are a little coked up but have .018 backlash which is .006" over high spec of new.

    Good/ bad news is they are 4.56... I need 4.10's. I could find the stamping on the ring gear when I was ripping it out.... stupid me.

    I'd prefer to regear the front to 4.56 but really didn't put that in the project budget. My banker is not happy. Anybody have an open diff'd 4.10 14 bolt that wants to go 4.56? Or a cheap set of 4.56's for the dana 44 in the front?

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    If that is an open carrier and 4.56 I have an open 4.10 set here in London I'll swap ya.


    Sent from my iPhone, excuse the autocorrect.
    83 CJ9 LS5.3/4L60E/231/B4R/D300, 8274,D60/14b,ARBs,15"airbags susp, 18"stretch 39"PITBULLS
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    Good project!

    What's the info on the vette??
    1998 Chevy K-1500

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    PM on your way Chris... I hate to loose the extra gearing but I have no urge to buy new gears for a 44 that may only have another couple of years i the Jeep.

    The vette is a 78. Built 383, 4 spd, 3.70 gears, Rack and pinion steering and "6 link'd" rear. I completely rebuilt it 2002-2006, My dad and I bought it together in 1990. Obviously, I have sidepipes on the car.

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    Finally found one eh. Nice! Looks like Chris has ya sorted out. If there's any problem with it let me know and i can crack this one to see what's in it.
    97 TJ - The Build
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    Yeah paid a little more than I wanted but wanted to get the project started. Chris and I are going to try and meet up tomorrow to swap gears/carriers.

    Chris, your inbox is full. I can't reply to your latest PM.

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    The first job for today was to switch the jeep's position in the garage. So after an hour or two this is horw it ended up.


    Here is a 15" rim with 4" backspacing on the axle. It fits with a lot of room to space. It would definitely fit an aluminum rim with the same backspacing and possibly a steel rim with 5" backspacing.


    Still looking for a set of 4.10's on an open carrier, Chrisbuilt's were on a gov-lock carrier which means it won't fit a locker.

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    Got the drums off last night since the young one wasn't asleep due to an unscheduled nap. 2 hours of beating since I couldn't get the adjusters to turn.

    I broke some hardware, a wheel cylinder, and cracked a drum. So Disc Brakes it is.

    I am waiting for a guy on Pirate to trade the gears and carriers to go back to 4.10's. I have a couple leads on 8 lug knuckles for the front(one local, one up north).

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    Ah, memories. I beat the living piss out of mine. Finally just plasma'd an access hole in the back and cut off the adjuster. Good to here you're hunting is finally paying off.

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    I needed the workout... I coulda hooked the plasma up but I 'm kinda stubborn. I hate when people/ things don't do what I want them so I make sure to show them that I will win. its kinda what got me here in the first place with my 44.

    The plan is coming together, now if somebody has an uber cheap front 60... then I'll be set. I almost bought a shortened 60 but it just looked too used up for the price.

    BTW The drums are 69.5lbs per side.... probably safe to add at least another lb of rust sitting on the floor.

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    man...seeing all the 14bolt threads, i'm so glad i bought mine ready for disks
    OF4WD #5808 RETREAD #8

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    Well I grabbed a set of 4.10's off of GMC572 so there are a set of 4.56's and open carrier for sale if somebody wants them.

    Now onto some progress. Looked through JK motorsports shave thread and built this conglomeration out of scrap I had lying around
    The all thread forces the grinder against the ring gear and prevents chattering while the zipties provide the stretch to make sure you don't put to much pressure on the grinder.

    After about 2 hours of grinding here is where I ended up. I took around 3/16" off the radius of the ring gear. I could have taken more... and still might, but due to the amount of material the grinder is removing, it is slow going.


    I've cut the housing and made a bit of a boo boo.... nothing a welder can't fix however. I'll grab some pictures tonight when I mount the Ruff Stuff caliper brackets on it. Steel is bought for spring mounts, plates and the shave plate. Hopefully I can get in the garage for an extended period this weekend to get some work done.

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    What's the purpose of shaving the ring gear? Sorry for the newbie question.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidepipes View Post
    After about 2 hours of grinding here is where I ended up. I took around 3/16" off the radius of the ring gear. I could have taken more... and still might, but due to the amount of material the grinder is removing, it is slow going.
    Any idea if a 40 grit flap disc would work any better?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pav1 View Post
    What's the purpose of shaving the ring gear? Sorry for the newbie question.
    This...




    You can see the shape of the actual diff and the shape it will be after cutting/shaving...


    Prevents this...




    ...from getting hung up on rocks, etc.
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