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Thread: 8.8 to stock driveshaft, flange?

  1. #1
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    8.8 to stock driveshaft, flange?

    Anyone know off the top of their heads what Rangers came with the correct flange that will adapt the Ford 8.8's to a stock YJ driveshaft?
    ....-Noltz
    '91 Frankenheep Edition. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, 35" KM2's, Titan 12k, ... gone.
    '95 4Runner SR5. Air-Lift bags, OBA & 8K Winch, DD... gone.

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    Not sure on the ranger years but you can find them brand new for $25-30. Google 8.8 to 1310 flange adapter.
    -----------------------------
    current fleet:
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    Good to know. We have access to a yard, so if I can pick one off a Ranger it's likely to be free.

    6 week old baby, toy budget isn't getting any bigger

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    huh i didnt know there was one... i just always buy the conversion joint
    If its a mechanical device i can fix it

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    The 6 cylinder Explorers use the 1310 joint. The 8 Cylinder uses a bigger one . Would suggest you use an explorer diff rather than a ranger, based on ranger guys are swapping in xplorer rears. If memory serves, the Ranger has fewer spline axles, and they break, plus the xplorer has disc brakes.
    Yesterday's HISTORY, Tomorrow's a MYSTERY. LIVE FOR TODAY

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    mine came off a exploder with 6
    Now i have a JEEP I am getting good at fixing things lol

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    Yep the axle that's going in is an Explorer, 31 spline with disc's... not a Ranger axle. It's been fitted with a locker already, but has no flange. It's my understanding the Ranger flange will bolt to the Explorer 8.8 and has the 1310 joint, and since it'd be essentially free why not. If someone knows, please post... otherwise I'll just order one.

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    I've used the 8.8 3 times, twice with 4:10's from the 6, and both had the 1310 joint. The one I currently have came from a V8, has 3:73, and a bigger joint. I got the guy at the wreckers to cut me off the end of the driveshaft, so I got the yoke and special bolts. When I had my driveshaft made, I kept the bigger joint. Like she says, bigger is better..lol
    When anybody is doing this swap, make sure you pull the cover to make sure it IS a locker (the tag lies a LOT) Buying a locker for one of these later is pricey. But get everything you can in the way of brakes and hardware, bolts etc. Also, in the way of tuffin it up even further, weld the axle tubes to the centre chunk, and a biggie is USE a thick cover..ie Ruffstuff, and attach it with STUDS, instead of bolts. I'd also suggest take a bit of time and cash, and put a new clutch pack in the locker. Not expensive, worth the effort, and not hard to do, and use a high quality gear oil ie Royal Purple. The lube MUST be full synthetic, as stated on the tag..just in case your tag was missing. They also have an pinion seal leak issue, so before you install the new flange, put in a new seal. Ford has upgraded the seal twice.. The lockers in these are very sensitive to tire pressures as well, so make sure both sides are equal. If you have one tire harder than the other, the locker loads up, and stays locked going around corners. That wears out the clutches fast, and also wears out your tires fast

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    Thanks Kidstf. I'll see if we can locate a 6cyl Explorer and scoop the flange yolk off it. If not, it's a simple order. Axle seems dry, nothing around the pinion seal but I'll recheck before it goes in. Don't want to be stuck on the trail for a $4 seal.

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    I think I have a spare flange in my pile o stuff, but I also think its a big joint one. When you are ordering it, also order new yoke bolts, and a new pinion nut. Its a crush nut, and isnt meant to be used twice. The yoke bolts have a 12 point head, and are metric. Seems to me the seal is about $30 from Ford. Tap it in a bit to start it seating, then imact it in the rest of the way using the flange as a driver. Don't get to carried away doing that, because you can overcrush the collapsable spacer on the pinion, and screw up the gears backlash. Also, if you do pull the locker, put in a new pin bolt (the little one that holds the spider pin in place) They are also a single use application (on ALL diffs) and not supposed to be re-used. Use blue loctite on the yoke to flange bolts.
    If you havent bought your swap parts, spring perches etc, TMR sells Ruffstuff products. I bought mine direct from Ruffstuff, and they where great to deal with, but customs etc was no fun at all, and it took three weeks to get here

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    Thank you again. The axle is already mounted on springs that I'm going to use. Cover was popped and everything looked good. I'll be careful with the seal installation, I've done many on FWD cars and such but none on an 8.8. Budget is most certainly a factor (other hobbies eating up play money) which is why I'd like to use any free resources I can. I do need shock tabs though, so I'll look at suppliers on this side of the border first

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