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Thread: Project "Try Again"..... My 2nd Try @ a Jeep.

  1. #21
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    i would says #2....it will be simpler to work with later...
    The only way to get smarter is to play a smarter opponent!!

  2. #22
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    #2. Looks like the BTF inboard kit.
    RIP OD, YOU'LL BE MISSED.... BUT that's OK 'cuz you've been REPLACED !!!

  3. #23
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    #2 for the same reasons, easier to deal with for links and mounting brackets.

    I did 2x3x1/8" and it's been great so far. I kinda wish it was 3/16" just for piece of mind but it's probably overkill considering the stock frame is .120 on the outside of the frame rail and .095 on the inside.

    I did brace the frame with solid cage tie-ins.




    Sent from iThingy
    Last edited by Chrisbuilt; 08-27-2012 at 08:44 PM.
    83 CJ9 LS5.3/4L60E/231/B4R/D300, 8274,D60/14b,ARBs,15"airbags susp, 18"stretch 39"PITBULLS
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  4. #24
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    I like the #2 option as well. IMO it more resemembles a frame and may be easier to accept if you are driving it on the road.

    But like the others have mentioned it will be easier to make changes later
    My latest project... Collection of Parts

    Other stuff... Building a doubler, D300 Flip kit

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  5. #25
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    2 is slick, just be ready for 46 linear feet of weld

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  6. #26
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    Rev, is that a BTF kit. The one in my pic was Trail Worthy Fab.

    I won't be using laser cut peices. I'm going for 2x3 tube and taper/brace it with 1/8-3/16 plate.
    90 YJ. 4link F/R, 16" SAW Airshocks, 32bolt Beadlocks, D60/14bolt, Full Hydro/Hydroboost L67 3.8SC 700r4 NP231/D300
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    I prefer to build it and not buy it, you see it, I probably made it.

  7. #27
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    I want to do #1 on mine in a year or so... I saw those pics on pirate and have #1 saved to copy.

    #2 would be simpler dwon the road though.
    1987 Jeep YJ with a few mods.
    2008 Jeep Sahara Unlimited - the daily driver
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  8. #28
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    Going with 2 seeing as I want to sink one of my Forklift tanks between the rails to get more interior space. #1 wont work with the X Brace in the tubing and I wouldn't trust the strength without it.

  9. #29
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    Well it's been a few weeks and I've spent more time (and money!!!!!) refinishing a ktichen!

    But I got out there tonight and will get a few more nights this week.

    How I started. I managed in the last week to get some tires and an axle home and has to roll it in to vision things. (I know my shop is a MESS!!!!!)


    Back half 85% done, just some cross bracing and body mounts. Pinched in to tub width for clearance.


    Not all body mounts are present so it's not sitting perfect.

    Bought a floor pan and put it in a while back. Did a rough bondo job to smooth it out to look nicer. Just need to sand it.

    And tonight I "set" an engine and tub and roughly in place to see how things might fit.

    I need to notch the frame for the rad, but I might front half it from the motor mounts foward too?



    I can shift the motor back about a 1-1.5 inches without hindering access to the trans bolts too much.

    I just need to get my body mounts in to really see where it sits and to bolt the trans up to clear it. I shopped the floor and firewall of my XJ up to no end and that opened a can of worms so I want to keep stuff that to a minimum. I will have to cut some due to the pass. side drop but hopefully only the tcase area.

  10. #30
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    coming along nicely. keep it up.

    curious as to why so low for the engine mounting? How does the transmission look from the underside?

    and as for the mess in your shop..... LOL... you should see mine yours looks awesome.

  11. #31
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    It will be higher. The body was sitting on the frame in the pics and the motor was sitting as high as it could on the jack stands. I was more or less looking at the dizzy to the firewall and motor to rad.

  12. #32
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    Are you sure you can pull that engine back another couple of inches? I am very tight with distributor to tub clearance on mine.... to the point its a PIA to get the one Dist. hold down undone.

  13. #33
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    Ya I can and did. It's close so I may knotch the firewall to add some clearance and make cap changes easier.

    Engine mounts and tranny crossmember are welded in now. Just need to brace the mounts.

  14. #34
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    Trans Crossmember and clearance.


    Had to Chop the floor to tuck things up:

    Motor Mounts:

    I will have to clearance the firewall. It's okay as I'm not using the stock heater box.

    Starting a Basic Truss Design. My old truss was going to limit uptravel as it would hit the frame rails and I could fit coil buckets on it.

    And Should I?

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post

    And Should I?
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  16. #36
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    ^What he said.
    #20OF4WD#3476

    "Will roll over for treats"

    97 XJ on 36's (with a few mods)

  17. #37
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    Yup x3.

  18. #38
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    Problem is that is a custom built turbo I put together for one of my build honda motors. Specs would be a little laggy for what I want as a single and too expensive and big for twin. I would rather find 2 t3 .60/,63's from a 5spd T-bird or 80's Nissan 300zx. But they are normally worked to shit. Some TD04's from a volvo would work. Spool real early and wouldn't cough out to much as I'm a throttle tapper, not a floor board holder.

  19. #39
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    turbo chevy yj sounds bad ass pics look good i say giv'er
    yj's are like pirates, they are nothing without a patch

  20. #40
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    Okay another 2 nights in the shop. The reason I do so many short updates is to get opinions to ensure I'm not in left feild and going the way of the xj!
    That said I should not be left alone with beer, a frame and metal cutting tools:

    Capped and mocking up front axle. Will be replacing front with 1.75 tubing.



    ANd for fun, which is hard seeing as the rim and tire combo weigh 25lbs more then I do!!!! But I was hoping for short, wide and low stance. I should be at 105- 106" WB. The XJ turned like a bus so I want this shorter.


    With the chop it is screaming coilovers or airshocks. Working hard on the $ fir that.
    Last edited by JKMotorsports; 10-12-2012 at 01:26 AM.

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