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Thread: TJ6 Build

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  1. #1
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    TJ6 Build

    I'll start by stating what I'm trying to accomplish and why.

    I'm starting off with a '97 TJ sport that I've had since new and has grown with me over the years. It's in pretty good shape as it's rarely been winter driven and has been garage kept most of it's life, and at only 115000 km still has lots of life left. It's currently sitting on a set of 35's with 3" springs and 1" body lift. It still has the stock axles, Dana 44/30 combo, but they are running 4.56 gears with a zip locker in the front and an OX in back. It's running the stock 4.0 but with a swapped in NV3550 and a 231 with a slip yoke eliminator.

    When I bought the Jeep I was much younger, single, and just wanted a fun vehicle. Fast forward 16 years and I've aged some (havn't we all), have a wife and 2 boys that love to wheel, but are getting bigger by the day (the boys not the wife). We love wheeling as a family but we're outgrowing the Jeep. I thought about going to a Cherokee or Grand, but like having the removable top. Looked at selling this and getting and TJ unlimited, but I'd lose too much money for the difference. So I started researching doing a stretch, and found a couple of others that had done similar projects, including one other on this forum. Then this summer I found a TJ unlimited back half with rollbar at Davey's Jeep in Clevland for $300 and took a day trip down there to pick it up. While I was there I went over to 4wd hardware just down the road and picked up a Bestop TJ unlimited soft top, that was $850, but unlimited soft tops are near impossible to find used, so... They've been mostly sitting in my garage now for the summer as we've been wheeling, except for removing some excess pieces of the unlimited that I won't be needing and unbolting the roll bar and pulling out the wiring. After getting back from Rocktoberfest this weekend, and not having any other plans until the spring I decided it was time to start, so last night I removed the spare, hi-lift, tools and the right side corner/wheel flare and mocked it up on the body to see where things would need to get mounted and how it would look.

    as you can see the unlimited was hit and it folded in the front, this has to be cut out





    Mocking up my TJ corners




    This is a filler piece for my Swag tailgate conversion, maybe I should just weld it to the corner this time, and tie it all together

    Let me know what you think...

    I realized after I started this that I should have named this thread TealJ6 instead of TJ6 (anyone know how to change this), for anyone that doesn't know the 6 comes from the CJ6 which was a long wheelbase version of the CJ5 and the TealJ, well I think looking at my Jeep and signature it's obvious where that's coming from.
    Last edited by tealj; 10-07-2012 at 11:22 AM. Reason: pics added

  2. #2
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    dude if you got what it takes to go to the states and pick your self up a unlimited tub, then the only thing i can say is have at er and pics please.

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    I did that to my yj.
    Just picked up a tj unlimited soft top and see if i can make it work.

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    Subscribed!

  5. #5
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    Discovered there is a difference in how the tailgate hinge is held to the body, the weld nuts (which I knocked off) are from the unlimited body, while the plate is from the original TJ, this left more wiggle room to adjust the hinges, also note above that the body on the unlimited has a divot between the hinge bolts on the body while the TJ's is flat (see next pic)


    also found some mud in the body supports, when I pulled out the rear wheel liners, this will have to get cleaned out, and I'll have to figure out a way to keep it from getting in again, if possible


    Sancza, I'm not sure how well the TJ top will fit a YJ, but good luck

    Thanks for watching so far
    Last edited by tealj; 10-02-2012 at 08:08 PM.

  6. #6
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    Eagerly subscribed.

    Do it on yours and figure out what not to do....


    Then we can do it right on mine after
    Tri-City Jeep Club

  7. #7
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    TJ6 Build

    The best/easiest way to drill big holes is a stepped drill bit. Even the cheap $9.99 bits from Princess Auto or Crappytire work decent with a small pilot hole.

    My front tow tabs were drilled with a 3/4" stepped bit through 3/4" plate. They work surprisingly well. Using a bunch of smaller cutting edges instead of one big point that needs to go slow with a lot of force.

    http://m.canadiantire.ca/mt/www.cana..._jtt_v_image=2



    Sent from iThingy
    Last edited by Chrisbuilt; 02-10-2013 at 10:37 AM.
    83 CJ9 LS5.3/4L60E/231/B4R/D300, 8274,D60/14b,ARBs,15"airbags susp, 18"stretch 39"PITBULLS
    09 Nissan
    Ford F350 CrewCab Long box 4x4 TowPIG/dd 165"wheelbase

  8. #8
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    Yeah, I used a couple of them too, but they don't seem to last very long, and I'm not sure they can be sharpened. I may go over to princess and see about a 3/4" hole saw and inexpensive drill that I saw on the website.

    Got the Princess big drill, managed to break a few drill bits and bang up my knuckles but got the holes done. That thing has got a ton of torque, managed to snap a 5/8" bit and twist my 3/4" bit.
    Last edited by tealj; 02-11-2013 at 02:26 PM.

  9. #9
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    More progress in the last few days. Finished welding in the frame inserts, got the crossmember welded up and modified the brackets to fit the 2" tube (were designed for 1.75"). Got the transfer cases and driveshaft in place to check for clearance and tacked in the lower link bracket and dana 300 support. Also measured for my lower arms, so will get the material today.

    As you can see the driveshaft needs to be lengthened just a touch


    Last edited by tealj; 02-15-2013 at 07:08 AM.

  10. #10
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    Looks great, I like how you mounted the brackets. Coming along!

  11. #11
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    Not sure which brackets you're talking about, but the lower link bracket is a TMR customs piece, the cross member and end plates I built. TMR does such a nice job that it's not worth my time to try and make them, same goes for the lower axle backets, rear axle truss, upper link brackets and the dana 300 support bracket that I also got from them. They also ship super quick, although don't order early in the morning when you're not thinking straight or you'll end up with two sets of lower link brackets instead of one, oh well I'll keep them in case I ever build a bigger axle in the future.

  12. #12
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    Lots of welding tonight. The lower link bracket and dana 300 support bracket were welded in to the crossmember. Then the lower links were chamfered and the bungs welded in to them. I then cycled the suspension to see if there are any issues, a little tweaking but otherwise it looks pretty good.

    Making sure I dad enough clearance to the tank.

    At full jounce


    Then at full rebound

    Also with articulation

    Close, but it clears

    Tomorrow I'll check how the sta-bar fits and then pull the axle and weld the truss
    Last edited by tealj; 02-20-2013 at 01:39 PM.

  13. #13
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    Re: TJ6 Build

    That stuff has a good stink to it eh? Just about fumigated myself out with 2 cans, going to do another 2 some time when it warms up a bit.
    2010 JK Unlimited Sahara, rubi axles, 35" duratracs, OME lift: Written off, RIP.
    2006 LJ Rubicon Lots of stuff from TMR installed by CT Motorsports (see profile if you want to know) project once more with feeling
    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    Listen to the wise Drizit
    Hey he said it not me.
    There Must have been a time when we could have said no.

  14. #14
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    Yeah it's nasty even with a mask, I sprayed 4 plus some other bracket painting and then closed down the garage for the night, I'll have to open the garage door sometime this weekend when it's warmer to air out the garage really good.

  15. #15
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    So I had cut a nasty hole in my floor for the shifters, not wanting to leave it that way I decided to bend up some sheet metal, I'm not really good at sheet metal, but I figured it'll be mostly hidden so I'll give it a go and get some practice before doing the body. Got a piece to fit most of the hole, just welding to the body, not the shifter plate, I want to leave that removable. Man I hate doing thin metal, but I played a little with the welder and go better as I went along.


    One final piece for the last hole, sorry the pics a little overexposed.

    I didn't bother trying to make it all fit flush, I didn't have that much patience, and my back was getting sore bending over the door opening.
    While I had the seat out I also put the original seat risers back on, I had switched to a fold and tumble base, but with these shifters that's not going to possible anymore, oh well the kids will have to use the passenger side or go through the windows.
    Last edited by tealj; 03-10-2013 at 09:00 PM.

  16. #16
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    Looks really good! I hate doing thin stuff too. tack, tack, tack and repeat... It's hard to find room for those things. I put my shifers on the passenger side of the console but can already hear the complaining lol.

  17. #17
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    Got a new package in today, Factory Ten axle shafts, they were a great deal and you'll see in the pics below why I chose to replace them, the pics are a little fuzzy but you can still see the twist, especially in the first pic. I ordered new retaining plates, so I'll keep these as trail spares.



    Worked on the rear axle and brakes some tonight, I took the 3 way block off of the end of my procomp stainless line and then welded the bracket to the frame, and drilled a hole to mount hold the line near the upper frame mount.

    Then used a hose clamp on the factory rear hose bracket to clamp it to the left upper arm, along with the stock original hose/tube and 3 way bracket mounted to the truss. Just had to bend the tube a bit to account for the angle of the truss.

    Then the TJ disk brake tubes/hoses out to the ends with a little bit of tweaking.



    Supposed to have my antirock on Thursday so then I can get that mounted and pull the axle to weld my locker air piston skid, the antirock brackets and drill and tap the hole for the 3 way block. Hopefully next week I can get the frame and axle sandblasted and then start work on mounting the body.

  18. #18
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    Re: TJ6 Build

    Looks good, gota love how that internal frame paint bleeds all over everything out of every hole eh?

  19. #19
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    A little update, decided I should do a little more to the rear axle, so I added a couple more brackets to it.


    As you can see from the next picture what's it for, this should make loading and unloading a lot easier, especially when things are wet and muddy. There is lots of clearance to the gas tank too.

    Also got the t-cases pulled, to get them finished up and painted the rear arms and crossmember.

    Got a little frustrated last night while trying to assemble my rear shafts, the split collars wouldn't go on straight, so ended up ruining 1 bearing and 3 collars before giving up. Have done them a number of time on the stock shafts when changing seals, and never had an issue. I wonder if it's got something to do with hardened shafts, as the shafts don't have a mark but the collars keep getting gouged where they start on the larger diameter where they seat. The bearings went on fine, although they don't fit as tight and have a nice radius where they start. I may try cooling the shaft and heating the collars next time to see if I can get them started before putting them in the press, that or having a taper machined into the collars so they start easier. If anyone has any other ideas, let me know.

  20. #20
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    Got the shifters in place and the center console back in. Also modified an existing bracket for 231 cable shifter and made a new shift lever for the 231, hmm forgot to take pictures of that.



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