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Thread: TJ6 Build

  1. #21
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    Oh Snap!... Jealous to see you making progress!

  2. #22
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    So does that mean that your not doing anything with the TJ rear cage?? would you like to sell it?

    I've been looking for a family bar for my YJ for months.... I'm thinkin' I could make one with your rear pieces.
    1957 Chev 3100 task force (in proggress)
    1991/87/89/95 YJ - The OutlaW SOLD
    Build Linky: http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showt...roject-Big-Red

    Follow me on instagram @pnutbilt_fab

  3. #23
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    Yeah, haven't got around to posting, but any of the unused or old TJ parts are definetly for sale. Not sure how I'd get it to you, but you're not too far away so I'm sure we could work something out.

    Still looking for a couple straight 15" long pieces of TJ frame. If anyones scrapping one, let me know too. The frame is 4"x2.5", which isn't really a standard steel tube size, I could take some 4"x3" and slice it and re-weld, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.

  4. #24
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    Alright got a few things done and found some new issues too.

    Removed the rear axle and discovered the BDS upperlinks need to be rebuilt, not too bad considering I'm not using them again, and then cut the frame.

    Found a tonne of mud in the frame, not sure how to prevent that or make it easier to clean up.

    Cut off the upper and lower control arm brackets and discovered a few issues, so I'll have to pick up some plate to fix that with (the frame's been flipped upside down).



  5. #25
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    Well I found some 4"x2.5" steel, it was only 1/8" wall, but with the innerplates and fishplates I'm going to put in, it should be plenty strong enough. Cleaned up the left frame rail, cut out the cancer where the upper control arm bracket used to be, fit a couple of the inner sleeves and chamfered the tubing. Also cut and welded in a plate where the bad section was. That should be all for a while as I have a couple of other things that need doing the next 2 weeks.

    The sleeves are two pieces of 1/8" plate each bent at a 90 deg angle, they will run all the way through the new tubing and 6" into each of the existing frame rails. I had to grind off some additional material to account for the extra thickness of the frame (.175") vs the tubing (.125").

    The plate (1/4" cold roll), ready to be welded.

  6. #26
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    il be watching this one , looks like a nice start man keep up the progress spring is almost here
    yj's are like pirates, they are nothing without a patch

  7. #27
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    Well didn't think I'd have time tonight, but I got a package from Staang's Fab today and I had to see what was in it.

    Started by fitting the plate to the 231 front half case that's been laying in my garage and marking where it had to be cut.

    Cut the front output off of the 231.

    Looked at my 300 and fit the adapter ring to it after cleaning up the surface and running a tap through the mounting holes. Sorry the only pic I had of the 300 was of the twin sticks, with I removed and won't be using.

    Then did some grinding to fit the block off plate onto the 231. Ended up with about 0.060" of adapter sitting up, so I'll see about getting that machined down rather than grinding the entire plate.


    Overall a nice setup, will have to see how everything clocks up later, but a good start anyway.

  8. #28
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    Finally got back to it, a little at least.
    Painted the 231 after getting it sandblasted and cleaned.

    Installed all the guts and checked it works, still need to get a new seal for the shifter though.

    Then started looking at the 300 again. Pulled off the yokes, and cut off the extra area around the shifters. Didn't like what I saw, the seals are all pretty cruddy, so time for a rebuild.



    Pulled the front yoke off of a 231 I had and it will work fine on the 300, then ordered a replacement for the other one, seeing as I need both to go to double cardans instead of the single u-joint that the 300 is setup for. Hopefully my clocking ring, cable shifters and rebuild kit come in soon and I can get back to that, but I still have lots of other things to do in the meantime.

  9. #29
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    Not a lot, but built a quick little rolling axle stand/cart.

    Started to remove the upper control arm brackets from the axle

  10. #30
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    Got the track bar bracket and left UCA bracket cut off, still need to clean up the tube, but it's coming along. Tore down the 300, I'm glad I did because the bearings and seals were all in bad shape, but the gears all look good. Did tweak the shift rods some getting them out, so I'll need to order replacements.


    Worked a bunch on the rear frame section, got the cancer cut out of the right side and welded in a filler plate, also plated the bottoms of the frame with some 1/4x2" flat bar. I added a 1" drain hole in the area that was rusted the worst to try and let the crap back out.


    Installed my new clocking ring from NWF on the 231, still ended up having to slot one hole in the trans, but better than all of them. Not sure I really like the position though, I think I'm going to have some body interference even with the 1-1/4" body lift. I'll have to wait and see when the lift comes in. If it's not too much I'll use a BFH, but I'd rather not cut the body, oh well we'll cross that bridge when it comes.
    Last edited by tealj; 11-19-2012 at 08:01 AM.

  11. #31
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    It's been a while since I posted, been busy with the holidays and progress has been a little slow, but I have gotten a few things done.
    As I said in my last post the body did have some interference with the flipped 231, but luckily nothing a BFH couldn't fix, and a bonus was that the area above there is hidden by a body support.

    The body lift is in, sort of, will be replacing all the body mounts with ones I picked up from Swag offroad, but that'll have to wait until the frame is back in one piece.


    Speaking of the frame, I got the extensions welded onto the rear section, but the front will have to wait until I clean out the frame. I'm going to get rid of the threaded inserts for the trans crossmember and replace them tubes that go to the top of the frame, thanks Thing1 for the idea.


    Also been working on the Dana 300, got it cleaned and painted and started the reassembly with my new set of 4:1 low gears from JB conversions, hey there was pitting on a couple of the stock gears, so what was I to do?




  12. #32
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    You did an excellent job on those frame patches.
    Mine had the exact same issue when I was building it. I did it a little differently, made a sort of "boot" to go over the affected area. I wish I had the bare frame like you did so I could have done something a little nicer.
    PAX ARMIS ACQUIRITUR
    99 TJ, HPD60/14B, TMR Customs 3 and 4 link, 40's.

    Project Sandstorm Remix

  13. #33
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    Great attention to detail, I like the look of your 300!

  14. #34
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    Yeah, it makes it a lot easier when there's nothing in the way, like body, suspension, electrical etc. I think it will hold up just fine, especially as the new arms won't be attaching anywhere near that area.

  15. #35
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    Looking good on the frame work!

    4:1 with the doubler?!?! Wowziers!

    Did you drill out the pressed in plugs for the shift forks when removing them?

    Are you planning on putting a sight tube on the 300?

  16. #36
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    It wasn't too bad to clean up once everything was apart, used a wire wheel to clean the case and 2" scotch brite pad on my air drill to do the gasket surfaces, then just some primer and paint. Hardest part is remembering to not rush it and go slowly, especially when all I want is to get it done.



    Yep, It'll have lot's of gearing, although in reality I'll probably either use the 2.72:1 or the 4:1 depending on the situation.

    I didn't remove the plugs for the shift forks, I soaked everything in cleaner for days and the 'pills' are all smooth and easy moving so I left that part alone

    I hadn't decided on the site tube, if I do I'll use the existing fill and drain tubes, rather than drilling new holes.
    Last edited by tealj; 01-14-2013 at 08:11 AM.

  17. #37
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    While I'm waiting for a few parts for the t-case I got back to work on the frame. Finished the prep work for the front half, including finishing drilling and welding in my tubes for the crossmember, cleaning out the frame some and beveling the weld edges, before throwing some weld through primer into the ends of the frame.


    Finally getting ready for the two halves becoming one again

  18. #38
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    Decided tonight was a good time to marry the two halves of the frame back together again.




    Still have to finish the welding, but it's not going anywhere.

  19. #39
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    So some more progress, got the welding finished on the frame and started working on placement of the control arm brackets, upper mostly as I can't finish the lowers until I have the t-cases in place. Also got the new body mounts near the fuel tank skid plate and the rear ones on the side welded in.

    fish plates are 27" long and I put them on both sides of the frame, so I think it might be a little overkill, but what's another spool of mig wire

    Trying to figure out exactly where to put the upper links


    Getting the axle lined up


    made some raised body mounts, so I don't need to use the body pucks

  20. #40
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    Looks awesome! keep the pics coming
    WARNING! I am about to do something really fawking STUPID!!!!!!
    ᄅ# pɐǝɹʇǝɹ
    93 YJ- RIP- parted out like I should be

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