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Thread: TJ6 Build

  1. #41
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    While waiting for some link material and axle brackets to come in, and with some parts for the t-case arriving, I got back to some work on the dana 300 case.
    Started with installing the shims to reduce the play in the input gears, and installed the input housing along with a new double lip Viton oil seal, seeing as this seal with ATF on one side from the 231 and gear oil on the other from the 300. I also put thread sealant on all the bolts as most go right through into the inside of the case.

    I then assembled the rear output housing and yoke, but the oil seal got deformed, so I need to order a new one, made sure to get a double lip one of those too. Ended up not needing any shims to get the proper end play for the output shaft, but I seem to have misplaced the yoke washer, so we'll see if I need to readjust later again, hopefully not.

    Now I just need my new front shift rail, and I can button up the case. I just dropped the old one and the material off at the machine shop, so hopefully it won't take too long to do.

  2. #42
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    Got back to the rear axle. Removed the LCA brackets after determining that they needed to be about 20 degrees, using the accurate tape and framing square. This resulted in an order being placed to TMR for some 22 degree axle brackets. Had to do some minor trimming to fit them around my nth degree shock brackets and then I welded them in. Of course I had to remove the brakes and axle shafts to get proper access to the outside of the brackets, but oh well.



  3. #43
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    Here's mine, CJ-7 stretched 18" with airbags and one ton stuff. You'll love the room and ride. It gets a lot smoother with a longer wheelbase, less bucking and bounce..





    These are the cage braces and body mounts.


    With the stretched hard top.
    83 CJ9 LS5.3/4L60E/231/B4R/D300, 8274,D60/14b,ARBs,15"airbags susp, 18"stretch 39"PITBULLS
    09 Nissan
    Ford F350 CrewCab Long box 4x4 TowPIG/dd 165"wheelbase

  4. #44
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    Thanks for the pics, it's good to see a completed project to keep the motivation going. That looks like a well built rig.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by tealj View Post
    It's been a while since I posted, been busy with the holidays and progress has been a little slow, but I have gotten a few things done.
    As I said in my last post the body did have some interference with the flipped 231, but luckily nothing a BFH couldn't fix, and a bonus was that the area above there is hidden by a body support.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisbuilt View Post
    Here's mine, CJ-7 stretched 18" with airbags and one ton stuff. You'll love the room and ride. It gets a lot smoother with a longer wheelbase, less bucking and bounce..

    Teal I like your body mount upgrade! What did that run you?
    Did you have any issues with the 231 adapter plate with the two threaded holes that are for the two bolts that slid through the 231 and thread into the adapter plate? The ones that are on the left of your picture.

    Chrisbuilt...

  6. #46
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    The body mounts were very reasonable, it has to be welded together still, but not hard. I picked them up from SWAG offroad, http://www.swagoffroad.com/BERTHA-Wr...Skid_c_28.html, for $150.

    The bolts on the left are actually reversed. The t-case is drilled out and the threads are in the plate, so they are easy to get at. I'll post a pic shortly as I am just in the process of lining up some of the t-case stuff so that I can get my crossmember position figured out.

  7. #47
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    A little more progress. Got the upper links welded as well as the tabs to the truss. I know the pic is of before welding, but I forgot to take one from the after.

    Then put the gas tank back in to check the clearance to the diff, it's tight, but until I get the lower links on and the pinion angle set, I won't know for sure.

    Then I decided to put the t-cases in to determine my rear crossmember location, which is where the rear t-case support will mount and the lower link bracket.

    Last edited by tealj; 02-09-2013 at 06:53 PM.

  8. #48
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    Did your bolts thread straight in?... Mine seem to be angle threaded into the plate... (bolt head not 90* to plate)
    Last edited by Impact; 02-09-2013 at 07:23 PM.

  9. #49
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    They went in easy, no problems. The only thing I did was trim the plate to fit the contours of the 231 case better, so that I had more floor clearance.

  10. #50
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    Starting getting the plates and frame tubes installed for the lower link crossmember. The belt on my drill press went on me, so I couldn't finish the 2" hole in the plates. I also need a bigger/slower drill for doing these 3/4" holes as my little 1/2" drill was smoking trying to do this, it doesn't help that this area has 3/8" thick walls as that's where my fish plates and inner reinforcements run. I also ran out of 3/4" .120 wall DOM for the inserts, so will have to wait until Monday to pick that up.

    Last edited by tealj; 02-10-2013 at 09:38 AM.

  11. #51
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    TJ6 Build

    The best/easiest way to drill big holes is a stepped drill bit. Even the cheap $9.99 bits from Princess Auto or Crappytire work decent with a small pilot hole.

    My front tow tabs were drilled with a 3/4" stepped bit through 3/4" plate. They work surprisingly well. Using a bunch of smaller cutting edges instead of one big point that needs to go slow with a lot of force.

    http://m.canadiantire.ca/mt/www.cana..._jtt_v_image=2



    Sent from iThingy
    Last edited by Chrisbuilt; 02-10-2013 at 11:37 AM.

  12. #52
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    Yeah, I used a couple of them too, but they don't seem to last very long, and I'm not sure they can be sharpened. I may go over to princess and see about a 3/4" hole saw and inexpensive drill that I saw on the website.

    Got the Princess big drill, managed to break a few drill bits and bang up my knuckles but got the holes done. That thing has got a ton of torque, managed to snap a 5/8" bit and twist my 3/4" bit.
    Last edited by tealj; 02-11-2013 at 03:26 PM.

  13. #53
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    More progress in the last few days. Finished welding in the frame inserts, got the crossmember welded up and modified the brackets to fit the 2" tube (were designed for 1.75"). Got the transfer cases and driveshaft in place to check for clearance and tacked in the lower link bracket and dana 300 support. Also measured for my lower arms, so will get the material today.

    As you can see the driveshaft needs to be lengthened just a touch


    Last edited by tealj; 02-15-2013 at 08:08 AM.

  14. #54
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    Looks great, I like how you mounted the brackets. Coming along!

  15. #55
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    Not sure which brackets you're talking about, but the lower link bracket is a TMR customs piece, the cross member and end plates I built. TMR does such a nice job that it's not worth my time to try and make them, same goes for the lower axle backets, rear axle truss, upper link brackets and the dana 300 support bracket that I also got from them. They also ship super quick, although don't order early in the morning when you're not thinking straight or you'll end up with two sets of lower link brackets instead of one, oh well I'll keep them in case I ever build a bigger axle in the future.

  16. #56
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    That's the one. TMR is awesome! I built my front 3 link out of scrap 1/4" plate a while back, then bought the rear 4-link kit from them... after it was installed and made my 3-link look like crap I torched it off and bought their 3-link kit haha. So I agree with you on buying brackets and such from them to save some time and add to looks/quality of work.

  17. #57
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    Lots of welding tonight. The lower link bracket and dana 300 support bracket were welded in to the crossmember. Then the lower links were chamfered and the bungs welded in to them. I then cycled the suspension to see if there are any issues, a little tweaking but otherwise it looks pretty good.

    Making sure I dad enough clearance to the tank.

    At full jounce


    Then at full rebound

    Also with articulation

    Close, but it clears

    Tomorrow I'll check how the sta-bar fits and then pull the axle and weld the truss
    Last edited by tealj; 02-20-2013 at 02:39 PM.

  18. #58
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    Well the rear sta-bar doesn't fit, at all, so after welding up the truss I cut off the sta-bar brackets on the axle and the frame and cleaned everything up. Finish welded the upper arm frame brackets as well. So basically the only stock bracket still on the axle are the coil buckets. I ordered a Currie antirock rear bar kit, so now I have to wait to paint the frame and axle until that comes in. I took some measurements for the driveshafts, rear has to get 9.25" longer, the front about 3-4" but I need to pull the front springs and cycle the suspension to be sure exactly how much, which is fine because then I can install my new front coils. I then started looking at the body and cut off some extra material from the new rear half, will do the final trimming once I get them closer. Also managed to clean up the garage a bit, so it's a little better to work in. So this week I need to run a wire wheel over the axle and frame to get them ready for paint, and hopefully get the shift shafts for the 300 back from the machine shop so that can be final assembled.

  19. #59
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    Lookin good. It's really starting to come together. Can't wait to see it on the trails.

  20. #60
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    It's getting there, still lots to do. How's your build going, haven't heard anything new.

    A little frustrated right now as no one has the Currie rear antirock in stock and Currie is backordered on the bars, so I won't see it for another week and a half at least. Oh well I'm away the next 2 weekends anyway, doing some ice diving in Tobermorry this weekend and skiing next weekend. Gives me a chance to start on the brake lines, wiring and other little stuff.

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