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Thread: TJ6 Build

  1. #61
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    Have you figured out yet where you plan on sticking your triple stick setup?

  2. #62
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    I'm hoping to stick it about where the stock shifter is, not sure exactly what that will take yet though. Might start working on that soon if I have to wait for the sway bar, although I ended up ordering it from Savvy and they said it should ship this last Friday, I think they're pretty well connected with Currie so we'll see, and I saved another $20 over 4WD. I've also talked to a company about sandblasting and priming the rear axle and rear part of the frame. I figure when I'm this far in I might as well get all the rust and crud I can out of everything.

  3. #63
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    More work, getting to it slowly. Extended the fuel tank wiring and routed everything for the t-cases. Got the holes drilled for the new body mount, 5" forward of the original and 1.25" higher (for the body lift).

    Picked up a new toy, so put it to use removing the rear track bar bracket, some material at the front shock bracket that hit the arm at full droop and some of the LF control bracket that got bent during some event or other.




    Also repaired some damage to the axle bracket from the control arm coming loose and wearing a groove into the bracket. I just filled it with weld and used the die grinder to smooth it back out.

    Also got my new 3" AEV springs installed in the front and brought the driveshafts in for lengthening.
    Last edited by tealj; 02-27-2013 at 06:36 PM.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by tealj View Post
    ... although I ended up ordering it from Savvy and they said it should ship this last Friday...
    I find they're pretty reasonable on shipping costs for large heavy items too.

  5. #65
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    It was OK, considering it was shipping from CA to MI, $28 for a 25lb piece, but the price was good and they gave me a online coupon for 10% off, so that more than paid for the shipping. It should be here Friday, so I'll get it Monday, which is fine as I'm gone this weekend anyway.

  6. #66
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    So I'm officially pissed off at Savvy, I finally get a chance to open the box with what's supposed to be my rear antirock and what falls out is some heavy duty track bar and a pitman arm, grrr... Don't know what they are for, and don't really care, I've already paid the taxes for the antirock to come across the border and I can't get a hold of Savvy, even before 5 California time.


    I did get a couple of things done though, cut a hole in my floor for the triple shifters, cut out a chunk of the center console to clear the shifters, welded on a new bracket to the shifter bracket so the cable for the 231 case can come in from the front so it doesn't do some weird S bend.


    Started working on bracket for the 231 t-case cable mount too. I had a few other no Jeep projects to deal with too, like mounting my new drill press to my workbench, and making a bracket for my plasma to sit on my welded without it falling off as well as a hook for the cords.



    Seeing as I was pissed and didn't want to deal with anything else I sprayed the entire inside of the frame with some Eastwood internal frame coating, used 4 full cans to do it, luckily I bought 5, so I have a spare. Now I need to stay out of the garage until tomorrow when the paint fumes die down.
    Last edited by tealj; 03-06-2013 at 10:02 PM.

  7. #67
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    Re: TJ6 Build

    That stuff has a good stink to it eh? Just about fumigated myself out with 2 cans, going to do another 2 some time when it warms up a bit.
    2010 JK Unlimited Sahara, rubi axles, 35" duratracs, OME lift: Written off, RIP.
    2006 LJ Rubicon Lots of stuff from TMR installed by CT Motorsports (see profile if you want to know) project once more with feeling
    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    Listen to the wise Drizit
    Hey he said it not me.
    There Must have been a time when we could have said no.

  8. #68
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    Yeah it's nasty even with a mask, I sprayed 4 plus some other bracket painting and then closed down the garage for the night, I'll have to open the garage door sometime this weekend when it's warmer to air out the garage really good.

  9. #69
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    So I had cut a nasty hole in my floor for the shifters, not wanting to leave it that way I decided to bend up some sheet metal, I'm not really good at sheet metal, but I figured it'll be mostly hidden so I'll give it a go and get some practice before doing the body. Got a piece to fit most of the hole, just welding to the body, not the shifter plate, I want to leave that removable. Man I hate doing thin metal, but I played a little with the welder and go better as I went along.


    One final piece for the last hole, sorry the pics a little overexposed.

    I didn't bother trying to make it all fit flush, I didn't have that much patience, and my back was getting sore bending over the door opening.
    While I had the seat out I also put the original seat risers back on, I had switched to a fold and tumble base, but with these shifters that's not going to possible anymore, oh well the kids will have to use the passenger side or go through the windows.
    Last edited by tealj; 03-10-2013 at 10:00 PM.

  10. #70
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    Looks really good! I hate doing thin stuff too. tack, tack, tack and repeat... It's hard to find room for those things. I put my shifers on the passenger side of the console but can already hear the complaining lol.

  11. #71
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    Got a new package in today, Factory Ten axle shafts, they were a great deal and you'll see in the pics below why I chose to replace them, the pics are a little fuzzy but you can still see the twist, especially in the first pic. I ordered new retaining plates, so I'll keep these as trail spares.



    Worked on the rear axle and brakes some tonight, I took the 3 way block off of the end of my procomp stainless line and then welded the bracket to the frame, and drilled a hole to mount hold the line near the upper frame mount.

    Then used a hose clamp on the factory rear hose bracket to clamp it to the left upper arm, along with the stock original hose/tube and 3 way bracket mounted to the truss. Just had to bend the tube a bit to account for the angle of the truss.

    Then the TJ disk brake tubes/hoses out to the ends with a little bit of tweaking.



    Supposed to have my antirock on Thursday so then I can get that mounted and pull the axle to weld my locker air piston skid, the antirock brackets and drill and tap the hole for the 3 way block. Hopefully next week I can get the frame and axle sandblasted and then start work on mounting the body.

  12. #72
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    Got the rear sta-bar mounted, so I pulled the rear axle and welded the brackets then made a skid plate for the air cylinder for the OX locker. I then picked up my lengthened drive shafts, unfortunately the front is too long by 1.5" and the rear is short by 2", so I need to take them back on Monday.






  13. #73
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    Re: TJ6 Build

    Looks good, gota love how that internal frame paint bleeds all over everything out of every hole eh?

  14. #74
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    A little update, decided I should do a little more to the rear axle, so I added a couple more brackets to it.


    As you can see from the next picture what's it for, this should make loading and unloading a lot easier, especially when things are wet and muddy. There is lots of clearance to the gas tank too.

    Also got the t-cases pulled, to get them finished up and painted the rear arms and crossmember.

    Got a little frustrated last night while trying to assemble my rear shafts, the split collars wouldn't go on straight, so ended up ruining 1 bearing and 3 collars before giving up. Have done them a number of time on the stock shafts when changing seals, and never had an issue. I wonder if it's got something to do with hardened shafts, as the shafts don't have a mark but the collars keep getting gouged where they start on the larger diameter where they seat. The bearings went on fine, although they don't fit as tight and have a nice radius where they start. I may try cooling the shaft and heating the collars next time to see if I can get them started before putting them in the press, that or having a taper machined into the collars so they start easier. If anyone has any other ideas, let me know.

  15. #75
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    Got the shifters in place and the center console back in. Also modified an existing bracket for 231 cable shifter and made a new shift lever for the 231, hmm forgot to take pictures of that.



  16. #76
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    OK, the pictures of the shifters (the two nuts are to account for the thickness of the transmission), and some of the drain, vent and sight tube (at least the start of it).


  17. #77
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    looking good when is the deadline estimated for
    91 Renagade
    frame replacement and more http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showt...91-yj-renagade

  18. #78
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    Got plans for the May long weekend, so that would be it

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by tealj View Post
    Seeing as I was pissed and didn't want to deal with anything else I sprayed the entire inside of the frame with some Eastwood internal frame coating, used 4 full cans to do it, luckily I bought 5, so I have a spare. Now I need to stay out of the garage until tomorrow when the paint fumes die down.
    Where did you get this? And what did you to to prep the inside of the frame?
    Are you happy with the results?
    1957 Chev 3100 task force (in proggress)
    1991/87/89/95 YJ - The OutlaW SOLD
    Build Linky: http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showt...roject-Big-Red

    Follow me on instagram @pnutbilt_fab

  20. #80
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    I ordered it from Amazon, and other than knocking as much crud out and blowing it out with air, I didn't do anything else. It's a little messy, but not too bad and so far I'm happy with it, but time will tell how well it really works. It seems to get into all the little cracks, which is the whole idea, I actually meant to pull out my little boroscope and see how it looks in the frame, but haven't had time yet.

    Actually the whole Jeep went off to the sandblasters today to have the rear half of the frame blasted and the frame epoxy coated, should have it back on Wednesday.

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