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Thread: 91 Burban was for sale BUT....now a buildup

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    91 Burban was for sale BUT....now a buildup

    So I am keeping this pig for now. I have changed the upper and lower ball joints and up graded them. Front wheel bearings changed and had to do a "red neck" thing....deflate the wheels to get it in a friends garage...lol




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ID:	85480so the build up starts
    91 Suburban on 38 Swampers, 5.7 (350) V1500 4x4. Big ...red...and ugly.

    "The camel toe is the smile of the body, if the body were a face"

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    Got some new wither shoes 37x12.5R17..... put on a new 160L fuel tank........going to fab up a light bar for my new lights....and yea my wife in the green coat saying...WTF are you doing now. And the shop where I am going to play in the making of the light bar



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    Last edited by jeepinpete; 11-12-2012 at 09:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinpete View Post
    Got some new wither shoes 37x12.5R17..... and yea my wife in the green coat saying...WTF are you doing now. Click image for larger version. 

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    ROFLMAO... I get that same look from my wife daily... especially after seeing someone else she always asks me what kind of bad ideas I was given

    Glad to see you building this bad boy up!

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    Must be brutal working in there....I mean.....there's just nothing.....

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    Wave Killen' 4dr

    OF4WD Member # 6449

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    ^ yea its roughing it......that just some of the toys in the shop..lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinpete View Post
    ^ yea its roughing it......that just some of the toys in the shop..lol.
    Looks to me like an AQ machine to cleanup brake rotors and 3 toolboxes full of pipe wrenches.....

    Once a driller, always a driller eh Pete?
    03 Rubicon with stuff to make it gooder

    "Bite my Shiny Metal ass!"


    Retread #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty Money View Post
    Looks to me like an AQ machine to cleanup brake rotors and 3 toolboxes full of pipe wrenches.....

    Once a driller, always a driller eh Pete?


    Well cutting some 2" tube stock and doing a dry fit....will post pics soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinpete View Post
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    Ahhhh...safety crocs...NICE!
    His ---> 04 LJ - 4.0L, Auto ɹnoɟ pɐǝɹʇǝɹ
    Hers ---> 75 Renegade Project - 304 V8, T15 3 speed uoıʇɐıɔossɐ ʎq pɐǝɹʇǝɹ

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    Good choice to keep it and turn it into a new project.
    1998 Chevy K-1500

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    Started the fab on the light bar. 2'x2' Alum stock. drilled and tapped for wire connectors. Its 48" long. Going to run the two outside lights on their own switch. Going to tig it up in the morning
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    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    Ahhhh...safety crocs...NICE!
    and socks....black..........

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    wire diagram for the lights call for only one 20 amp fuse between two lights ( 100 W x 2 ) that sound way under rated to me. Me thinks that I should use a 20amp fuse for each light????????????? Your thoughts pls

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    I = current (amps)
    P = power (watts)
    E = voltage (volts)

    I = P/E

    I = 200 watts/12 volts

    I = 16.67 amps


    You could actually drop to about 10 volts while pulling 200 watts before hitting 20 amps.


    You will be safe with a 20 amp fuse...just make sure the switch is rated for AT LEAST 20 amps...if the switch is rated lower than the fuse, then you MUST use a relay or get a higher rated switch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    I = current (amps)
    P = power (watts)
    E = voltage (volts)

    I = P/E

    I = 200 watts/12 volts

    I = 16.67 amps


    You could actually drop to about 10 volts while pulling 200 watts before hitting 20 amps.


    You will be safe with a 20 amp fuse...just make sure the switch is rated for AT LEAST 20 amps...if the switch is rated lower than the fuse, then you MUST use a relay or get a higher rated switch.
    switch is rated for 275W 20 amp, but I was thinking on running seperate 20A fuse to each lamp..........

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    I got rid of the wire supplied with the lights and upgraded to MTV 600v wire....... I hate using cheap shike when doing wiring......so I know my wiring will withstand any "surge" if anything happens. If I will be only drawing 16.67 A with two lamps then one 20A fuse would do, BUT, is it over kill to use a 20A fuse on each lamp??

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    I wouldn't do it...if you want to run separate fusing for each light, then do the above calculation but replace the 200w with 100w. Puts it around 8.34 amps draw per light...fuse them at 10 amps each.


    Something to think about, you need to protect every component in the circuit, INCLUDING THE SWITCH, so your fuse should be as close as reasonably possible to the power source. Unless your plan is to run each light on its own switch, then just fuse each circuit before the switch for however many lights you will have on that circuit...

    EG.

    5 lights with 5 switches, fuse each one at 10 amps
    5 lights with 3 switches, 2 lights on switch 1 fused at 20 amps, 2 lights on switch 2 fused at 20 amps, 1 light on switch 3 fused at 10 amps
    5 lights on 2 switches, 2 lights on switch 1 fused at 20 amps, 3 lights on switch 2 fused at 30 amps (see note below)

    NOTE - the calculation says 300w at 12 volts will pull 25 amps, a 30 amp fuse will give some buffer without blowing fuses constantly, keep in mind, your switches are only good up to 20 amps, they might be able to survive up to 25 or 30 (most manufacturers will build in a safety factor) but why test it on your vehicle...at that point, get a higher rated switch or use a relay.

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    ^ your right....and that makes sense. I would rather run 4 switches and 4 fuses then I know the circuit will run with no problems. I know these babys will be drawing alot of power and I do not want any issues down the road.....

    your still ugly!

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    I hear ya, and ultimately if you have an issue with a light and a fuse blows you still have 3 other lights working instead of losing a pair or more at once...personally, I am not a fan of having a bunch of switches, but I understand the concept and it makes sense.


    Now the countdown until somebody makes a BGTL comment about having that many lights....LOL...if only they could truly understand the VERY real and regular hazard of moose on the roads where you are, then they would understand the need for more lights...

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    The best thing is to run the lights through relays so very little power is running through the switches. You could still fuse each relay power seperately but it would keep all the high power wiring out of the interior and could then run smaller gauge wire inside so it's easier to bundle and work with.

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    Well I picked up my relays today. The light bar is welded and ready for paint. Will post picks when the wiring and install begins

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