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Thread: 1990 YJ biuld up, 350,700r4,241, hp60 and 14

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    1990 YJ biuld up, 350,700r4,241, hp60 and 14

    Last year i decided to buy myself my first jeep.

    I picked up a running 90 yj and drove it for a month before my son and myself tore it apart to start the build





    The frame was rusted worse than we thought thought so i found a good used frame and had it sandblasted and epoxy primed.
    Then started mocking up the drivetrain.







    When it came time to put the body back on we realized that the body had more rust then we thought. rather than spending time fixing it I went and picked up a good used tub.

    Swapping bodies was made alot easier when your son works for a towing company and has an awesome boss that let him use a truck for the job.













    And as always remember to move over and leave space for those working on the side of the road.
    OF4WD #7392 88 Romeo

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    1990 YJ biuld up, 350,700r4,241, hp60 and 14

    Nice to see pics.

    The 350 is nice fresh looking.

    What suspension are you thinking about? I've seen you ask questions about anti-wrap and stretches. Is the plan to stay SUA or is SOA on the works?
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    Nice build dude!! Damn would have loved a true Sahara....

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    This is his son, im the one doing the build thread, the jeep is soa.

    The 350 is a few years old, it was in the blue chev pickup you can see in a few pics. should be about 350hp, desktop dyno said 400 but its likely not accurate.

    i know in my old s10 blazer with less than 300hp 350 and spring over in the rear i was twisting the springs alot on just 31's

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    Thumbs up

    Nice small block, looks so natural in there. The axles are tough looking & great looking tub & frame.
    Gonna be a sweet YJ when your done.
    To bad the Sarah tub was rotten, always digged that colour.
    keep posting the pics.
    New car. Gotta have a new car to block for the truck.
    Speedy car.
    Speedier than that.

    OF4WD # 6821

    REDe2ROK LJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by REDe2ROK View Post
    Nice small block, looks so natural in there. The axles are tough looking & great looking tub & frame.
    Gonna be a sweet YJ when your done.
    To bad the Sarah tub was rotten, always digged that colour.
    keep posting the pics.
    Yah I liked that colour too, red is very bright! Im not 100% sure Ill stay that colour.Yes it is soa and that 350 had to be de- cammed because I was affraid of too much power for that frame and e tests. I think Ill still be pushing the limits as is..It was in the blue 86 P/U and it drove to and from AZ a bunch of times and had NO problem driving 90 mph all day long fully loaded , that truck is going to give up its 14 bolt with an arb to the jeep. The engine has aluminum heads, comp cam and rollerrockers- 1.6 ratio. Its originally a rebuild from a company in the states I think it was Jasper. They are a great rebuilder they have charts with all the options you could want at reasonable rates. I blew a piston on the original motor on a trip to AZ a few years back, and had to find a new engine in tennesse .It was impossible to find a new or used or rebuilt. I ordered from jasper engines and in 2 days it arrived . I got a shop to do the swap but I still most of the work because they didnt moove too fast and I was in a hurry. Oh and dont forget the chrome shorties. That was all that was avail from summit for an angled plug head. PITA ,but they say it make more power. The engine is happy at higher revs.

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    I hope you're scouring jeepkings over breakfast like I am, it's Sunday - get out to the garage and wrench on that weapon!
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    I have a M&G this morning with fellow essex jeepers at 11 after that I will. I got about half my dash put back together yesterday. but I dont have alot of head room in the garage so getting in the jeep is dangerous. Then taping the wiring. I havent run the engine yet to break in the new cam, so I have to get my y pipe finnished and rad and front grill locked down then start. ICW. I still need to order drive shafts.

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    Nice to see some pics finally, but you have a loooooong way to go, 112 days or so till JK 101 and you will want to have given her a good test run before making that trek up north, anyway, keep at it
    WARNING! I am about to do something really fawking STUPID!!!!!!
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    It looks wors than it is , but still yah lots to do hanging the front sheet metal and trimming will be fun I think. I cant even remember what or how the front fenders fit. Thanks for the interest guys

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    I didnt realize my son didnt post the newer pics yet. He'll get at it today. It's alot closer to being done than the pics show, but thanks for the kick in the ass.

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    Nice ....another 1 ton build.............keep the progress comming
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    Well I called Jesse at high angle off road to get his input on the drive shafts. first he congradulated me on being able to keep my t/c is 90* ( or 0 as i see it) and the diff is too high. the big but is I need to lower the angle to 20* or less to be driven on the road. Sooo back to sqare one in figuring what the best route is.hea also want the diff rotated down some. Ohh crap!

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    Ok, so lets translate that post into something completely understandable.

    Are you talking about the rear shaft angle?

    I assume you are talking about the rear diff pinion angle?

    By saying the transfer case is at 90 degrees, is that implying that it is clocked flat ( parallel to the ground)?

    You can certainly run more than 20 degrees of pinion angle on a 14B on the street....though, not a lot more. I have seen 26 - 28 degrees without issue. The diff oil level just has to be set higher as a result.

    Also, are you planning on running a CV shaft in the rear or not? By the sounds of it, you are.
    Last edited by Stickybongsmoking; 02-05-2013 at 09:36 AM.
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    Sorry ctd nut . about the rear out put flange, jesse called it 90* thats 90 to the ground (thats why I called it 0*)and the rear pinion is 28* up . From the center nut on rear pinion and center on the t/c is 28 *. I just thought that some things were understood. Definatelly a cv shaft for front and rear drive shafts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    Sorry ctd nut . about the rear out put flange, jesse called it 90* thats 90 to the ground (thats why I called it 0*)
    Ahh, so it is the rear output is at 0 degrees. I get it now.


    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    and the rear pinion is 28* up
    That's pushing it....BUT totally doable with the fill plug for the gear oil relocated a little higher. I run my rear D60 at 28 degrees with the fill plug 2" higher than OEM. It sees some street time at highway speeds without issue.


    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    From the center nut on rear pinion and center on the t/c is 28 *.
    A 1350 flange CV is going to be almost at its max angle at an operating angle of 28 degrees. You won't have much rebound travel at the center of the axle as a result and you should seriously consider a center limiting strap to stop the center of the axle drooping too far and tearing out your CV.

    There are some higher angle options that you may want to explore. They aren't cheap but a few extra degrees will make a big difference


    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    I just thought that some things were understood.
    Not with you, they're not!

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    Yah Jesse said a 1410 cv and upgrade the 14b pinion to a 1410 would run over a grand and the 1350 about half that. Wow .I got a shaft made completely new for my 86 4x4 rear for 250 a few years ago, from a place in concord that was near where my wife worked .Astro brake and joint (or something like that) I think the name was.

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    You are talking about comparing a custom made massive high end 1410 CV shaft that actually uses some non-automotive components with custom billet flanges at each end to what driveshaft? It is pretty much impossible to have an all new shaft of any size or style complete made for $250 today. 3 Spicer 1410 internal clip life series u-joints are over $100 alone.

    There is a big premium to be paid to go to 1410 as you discovered. The joint size is overkill for your application as well. 1350 is plenty.

    There are other options than High Angle Driveline that do make 1350 sized CV's that are able to operate at larger angles than 30 degrees. Tom Woods BAMF CV comes to mind (42 degrees): http://4xshaft.com/

    http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/ is another custom driveshaft shop that specializes in very high angle CV shafts. I have no experience with them but they do have a wide selection of CV shafts that will operate well beyond 30 degrees.

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    Thanks for the links ctd nut . I made some modifications to my set up and now the TC flange is pointing down 8* and I will remount the rear axle at 20* up instead of 28. That angle was just wrong!!. This 14 bolt rear is only my mock up one, I have another set up with an ARB that will be going in as soon as it gets warmer outside as its still in the doner truck. The driveline superstore has caught my interest for now. Ive contacted them to see what they have to say about my set up.

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    I need some help. I am looking at wiring diagrams and they are showing me that the nss and reverse light sw is on the left side of the tranny. I believe this was for an automatic? didnt they manual shift trans use a clutch pedal switch or am I wrong. I am running a 700r4 now and I dont need a clutch pedal sw if thats what came on them. my trans shifter has the switches I need . I cant seem to find a plug for the clutch switch. I have a 4 pin connector in the engine bay that I marked as nss but it doesnt do anything. I wonder if the PO had the switch bypassed. I always used the clutch before so I dont know if the switch set up worked. . One wire thats supposed to go to the clutch switch is very small guage wire , not suitable for the stater solenoid draw. Can anyone shed some light on the switches and /or wiring.

    Forget it no clutch interlock switch on a yj and from what I have read elswhere maybe only autos had one( not sure on that one even though the wiring diagram shows it. Then what the hell did I mark that black wire from the starter relay as nss. back to poking wires tomorrow.
    Last edited by jeeper52; 02-05-2013 at 07:37 PM.

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