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Thread: Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

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    Quote Originally Posted by H3lzsn1p3r View Post
    from what I have read and heard they are mostly plug and play
    I can see this being the case for 2012+ (or whenever the 3.6 was first introduced), but I'd be surprised if it was as simple for earlier MY JKs.
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    Re: Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

    You would need a new ECM, and complete wiring harness. If its an auto you would need the transmission as well because the pre 2012 tranny is not compatable with the 3.6 programming. Also new exhaust as the 3.6 does not use manifolds. Im sure more things that are not coming to mind right now but I dont think its a straightforward swap.

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    Re: Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

    Probably most of the front end accessories as well. I'm also betting if you have ac none of the lines will work. Seeing as you have to old interior I also suspect the 3.6 wireing harness won't snap right into the existing heater, window, and lock controls. I would do a ton of reading before buying a 3.6 to put in.
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    Why bother with the hassle of a different engine in something this new? Why give yourself the headaches, replace it with another one of the same. The worst thing manufaturers came out with was the oil life monitor. I would never follow one, all they have done is make people lazy after so many years of trying to get them to change there oil at 5,000km's. It's alot cheaper to change the oil than it is an engine as my father always said!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep4752 View Post
    Why bother with the hassle of a different engine in something this new? Why give yourself the headaches, replace it with another one of the same. The worst thing manufaturers came out with was the oil life monitor. I would never follow one, all they have done is make people lazy after so many years of trying to get them to change there oil at 5,000km's. It's alot cheaper to change the oil than it is an engine as my father always said!
    ^what he said. 30minutes of alone time under the heep every 5000 km. Play with your grease gun while you're at it Eh OH!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepman View Post
    Plus I believe under the emmissions guidlines for anything 2000+ you can NOT install and engine of anykind that is not equal or newer then the model year but our Resident E-test Guru would know best on this one
    You rang...???

    I have had ZERO luck getting any answers from Drive Clean on diesel conversions, period. The ONE I've run into so far was a friend who dropped a complete TDI engine & PCM into a Libby. We connected to the VW OBD2 port for that one. The OBD was satisfied with all the parameters of the car, and the vehicle passed.

    Quote Originally Posted by jeep4752 View Post
    Why bother with the hassle of a different engine in something this new? Why give yourself the headaches, replace it with another one of the same. The worst thing manufaturers came out with was the oil life monitor. I would never follow one, all they have done is make people lazy after so many years of trying to get them to change there oil at 5,000km's. It's alot cheaper to change the oil than it is an engine as my father always said!
    This! 1000 times, this. Get a good used motor, drop it in, and keep going. You fawked up by (1) using the oil life monitor and (2) ignoring it, driving FAR beyond what the oil is rated to do. It's really very very simple; 3 months or 5,000kms. There's no exceptions.

    I'd probably make sure the oil level is up (using old oil, cuz I'm sneaky), call the 800 number and see what Chrysler says.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noltz View Post
    You rang...???

    I have had ZERO luck getting any answers from Drive Clean on diesel conversions, period. The ONE I've run into so far was a friend who dropped a complete TDI engine & PCM into a Libby. We connected to the VW OBD2 port for that one. The OBD was satisfied with all the parameters of the car, and the vehicle passed.



    This! 1000 times, this. Get a good used motor, drop it in, and keep going. You fawked up by (1) using the oil life monitor and (2) ignoring it, driving FAR beyond what the oil is rated to do. It's really very very simple; 3 months or 5,000kms. There's no exceptions.

    I'd probably make sure the oil level is up (using old oil, cuz I'm sneaky), call the 800 number and see what Chrysler says.
    and you may be wrong. As an example, the new Dodge Rams manual recommends 13thousand MILES or 6 months! A service manager said it all began with Toyota stretching the envelope on oil changes so now all companies are falling in line. He 100% does not agree with it as his dealership has seen these Rams that are sludge buckets by the time owners change it according to the manual. i know my mazdaspeed3 has a recommendation that is absurd.
    Does anyone have a new owners manual to see what it states?

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    i found this:
    For the 2013 JKU...
    In the 2013 User Guide:

    NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve months, whichever comes first.

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    Insane.


    Quote Originally Posted by Spinalguy View Post
    i found this:
    For the 2013 JKU...
    In the 2013 User Guide:

    NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve months, whichever comes first.

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    Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

    If a vehicle only sees long distance highway miles 20,000 is fine. Big trucks regularly go 40,000 between changes and get partial rebuilds at 1.6 million km.

    It's the short runs that will mess up your oil. That and not topping it up when it uses a bit.


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    I know companies going longer than that Chris. They test it after draining... Then extend oil change intervals according, they just do a grease job every 5000 miles. My interval is 20000 miles.

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    Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

    Screw other companies. We're talking about a 2009 with the 6 that looses a quart of oil every 5k. The manual for my 2010 says oil change every 6 months or 10k kms/6k miles.

    Warranty says 10k
    Change Oil light dings at 4,500-5,500kms
    At 5k its going to be down a litre, give or take a bit.

    Oil Capacity is only 5.7L, so after the 13k that the op reported I'd wager his sump is sucking air.

    Just because a manufacturer says 5-10-16-40k between changes doesn't mean you don't check the dipstick once a month. Click image for larger version. 

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    Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

    I'm sitting back here wondering what is making these vehicles get these incredible service intervals. What has changed in recent years.

    We do have synthetic oil
    We do have more "clean" running efficient vehicles
    And
    We have manufactures that are including regular vehicle maintenance with new vehicle purchase
    Warranties until 50 60 k's

    Many manufacturers are stating several liters of oil consumption between changes are normal. The onus is also upon the consumer to monitor consumption and add oil between services.

    So what I'm seeing is nothing has really changed except for the fact that someone is being left with a sludgy engine after warranty is up if it makes it that long and if it doesn't you are at fault for not checking and topping up. And the red oil light is not the top up indicator.
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    Engine Seized on 2009 Wrangle 3.8 L , 78K - options

    The tolerances in new motors is within a couple thou every time. The materials use and coatings on cylinders, rings, bearings and everything else is far superior to stuff from the 90's. Even the oil and gas is better with different additives and less breakdown.

    The only thing the same is the grey matter of the operators. If you're not going to check, change or top up your oil you deserve to walk for a couple weeks while you get a new motor.


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    I don't know that the new oils are better, they have taken Zinc out of the oil, so that'll help kill our older engines even faster. They took Zinc out because they found that over a long period of time it was breaking down the cat. convertors. What i feel is that the tree huggers of the world are at work here, lets make oil change intervals higher to help burn out the engines faster so Joe Consumer has to buy a new vehicle sooner. I sure as hell don't look forward to buying any used vehicle that has an oil life monitor in it in the future, unless i knew that the previous owner didn't follow it.

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    burden,
    give us an update man!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinalguy View Post
    and you may be wrong. As an example, the new Dodge Rams manual recommends 13thousand MILES or 6 months! A service manager said it all began with Toyota stretching the envelope on oil changes so now all companies are falling in line. He 100% does not agree with it as his dealership has seen these Rams that are sludge buckets by the time owners change it according to the manual. i know my mazdaspeed3 has a recommendation that is absurd.
    Does anyone have a new owners manual to see what it states?
    I think we're agreeing here. The intervals have gone crazy long with very little mechanical changes to allow it. And the end result is worn out engines, with equal more new cars purchased. A few hundred in extra service, done at the right times, can double the life of an engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by craveneh View Post
    I'm sitting back here wondering what is making these vehicles get these incredible service intervals. What has changed in recent years.

    We do have synthetic oil
    We do have more "clean" running efficient vehicles
    And
    We have manufactures that are including regular vehicle maintenance with new vehicle purchase
    Warranties until 50 60 k's

    Many manufacturers are stating several liters of oil consumption between changes are normal. The onus is also upon the consumer to monitor consumption and add oil between services.

    So what I'm seeing is nothing has really changed except for the fact that someone is being left with a sludgy engine after warranty is up if it makes it that long and if it doesn't you are at fault for not checking and topping up. And the red oil light is not the top up indicator.
    I agree with a few points, and disagree with others you've made. We do have synthetic, but Toyota (for example, because I know) does not use synthetic 5w20 and still gives 8,000km recommendations for M.Y. 2000+ vehicles. The filters have been made smaller and internal instead of spin on so you don't know it's been changed at the lube shop. Cleaner running? Emissions wise, yes they pollute less, but I don't think they run cleaner at all. Chrisbuilt suggests they're within a few thou every time, but if that's correct then why am I burning oil in a 2009 but my 1997 doesn't? I agree the finished surfaces are better now than ever, but I believe they're build with additional clearance now to eliminate (or vastly reduce) engine break-in. If I follow my Hyundai's recommendations it'll be covered to 120,000 km. If I follow my own schedule I expect I'll never need their warranty services.

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    My 07 did the same thing at 97k, except I did regular oil changes and it was a flaw in the engine. Covered under warranty, you just have to prove you did oil changes.
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    so 13000 between oil change? every 5000 in the manual.

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