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Thread: TJ windshield frame and hinge re&re

  1. #1
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    TJ windshield frame and hinge re&re

    I found a mint windshield and frame to replace the rotted and broken one on my 97 TJ.
    As the hinges were virtually rust free as well I left them on the new frame.
    It seems that they were primed, attached to the body then painted. (But I could be wrong)

    Does any one have any suggestions on anything (or nothing) to put between the hinges and body to keep out moisture/ dirt?
    Any advice on prepping the body / hinges before installing?

    My TJ is black and the frame/ hinges are yellow. I wasn't going to paint it at this point so sealing it with matching paint doesn't really work in this case.

  2. #2
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    When I replace and paint my hinges, I will be putting a strip of rubber behind like a gasket of sorts.
    Old bicycle tubes and other large tubes are great for this.

    As for prep, sand them well with a min 400grit. Prime twice, sanding between each coat, two top coats, sanding between each coat.
    I have been told that the Rustoleum Pro is some good stuff.

    I have heard that removing the hinges is a real PITA. Heat is often involved. Go slow and don't snap or strip the torx.
    93 YJ - Stock 2.5L inline 4, 4" Rough Country Lift, 1.5" Shackles, 33" BFG's, SYE yet to be installed, Raptor Liner Sprayed, CB, Stereo that goes BooM, Aussie locker front, XJ solid shafts, tube fenders by Tubular Metalworx, 8500lb winch, Garvin swing away tire carrier and clearly far too much time on my hands. No roof, no doors and two screaming kids in the back.

  3. #3
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    Be really careful removing the torx hinge bolts. They are installed from the factory
    with thread locker, and you will need to use an impact wrench to even stand a
    chance of getting them out without snapping them off.

  4. #4
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    Having tried to remove mine recently ('04 Rubi that lived its first 4 years in the rust-belt), I'm convinced heat will be the only way to remove all bolts without stripping or snapping the head.
    OF4WD Member # 5887

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  5. #5
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    use lots of heat to get the bolts out, you don't need to worry about damaging the paint because you have new hinges with the frame. I actually found when I changed my W/S frame that the hinge bolts on the body side loosened off with ease but the bolts in the windshield frame were difficult to get out

  6. #6
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    Yea, broke one bit and twisted another just getting the (old) hinges off the (old) body.
    About 14 torx screws including the rollbar.
    I have an old tire tube that I can cut a gasket from. Will the screws be long enough after adding 1/16-1/8 inch rubber?
    All bolts came out clean, but I pulled it off a 2002 very clean no rust.
    I scored the Bolts with a knife to cut the paint to reduce tension first.
    I do graphics ( vehicle wraps) for a living and have had a lot of experience removing auto parts cleanly in the course of my job.
    The bolts I had issues with were on the face of the body not the sides. Good point to mention.
    Last edited by Werner; 10-04-2013 at 01:45 AM.

  7. #7
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    Much appreciated for all the input.
    Anyone else have any experiences ?
    I have some time and will wait till I have a good game plan before I start this job.
    Pulling it off a wreck was one thing.
    Pulling mine where the threads are, not the bolts is another...
    Last edited by Werner; 10-04-2013 at 01:47 AM.

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    Done a few sets of hood hinges and found that a mini butane torch worked best.
    OF4WD #6222

  9. #9
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    Mostly looking for ideas and suggestions on how to prep the body and hinges.
    If anything to put between them to prevent moisture and rust etc...

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