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Thread: Wiring up a tablet+DAC to Factory Infinity Amp/Speakers

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    Wiring up a tablet+DAC to Factory Infinity Amp/Speakers

    Hello all - 2012 JK Rubi 2-Door with the Infinity Amp and Speakers (Sub removed ages ago).

    I recently purchased a Nexus 7 2013 model, and my friend and I are going to be installing it into the dash with a custom made fiberglass dash/trim.

    The Nexus 7 will be wirelessly charged, and I'll have a DAC plugged in to the unit sitting behind the fiberglass.

    Here's the list of questions, numbered for your convenience

    1. Do I just solder together the +/- from the amp (or the factory wiring harness) to a set of RCA cables, and plug them in?
    2. What about the remote connection to turn the amp on? (Head Unit had a "remote" wire that needed to be wired up for sound to play, from the Pioneer head unit I've since returned)
    3. Do I need the CANBus module in this situation or did I just waste $200?
    4. How do I wire in the factory microphone for hands-free phone services?


    Thanks for your help everyone

    I'll be sure to post pictures when it's all said and done
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiltron View Post
    Hello all - 2012 JK Rubi 2-Door with the Infinity Amp and Speakers (Sub removed ages ago).

    I recently purchased a Nexus 7 2013 model, and my friend and I are going to be installing it into the dash with a custom made fiberglass dash/trim.

    The Nexus 7 will be wirelessly charged, and I'll have a DAC plugged in to the unit sitting behind the fiberglass.

    Here's the list of questions, numbered for your convenience

    1. Do I just solder together the +/- from the amp (or the factory wiring harness) to a set of RCA cables, and plug them in?
    2. What about the remote connection to turn the amp on? (Head Unit had a "remote" wire that needed to be wired up for sound to play, from the Pioneer head unit I've since returned)
    3. Do I need the CANBus module in this situation or did I just waste $200?
    4. How do I wire in the factory microphone for hands-free phone services?


    Thanks for your help everyone

    I'll be sure to post pictures when it's all said and done

    My opinion...

    1. Any wiring you do, do at the factory harness in the dash, so much easier to deal with. Does the DAC have only RCA output, or is there a speaker level output? Does the DAC have any kind of adjustable gain control? What DAC are you using?
    2. You could use a switched accessory source (I would suggest tapping in to the lighter/power socket) to turn on the amp and/or to use as switched power for charging, turning the DAC on/off, etc.
    3. Do you, in a word...no. BUT, if you use it, it is possible to keep Retained Accessory Power (where radio stays on until door is opened), without RAP you would need to have the key turned to the ACC or Run position to listen to audio.
    4. Couldn't fawkin tell ya...


    Curious...why are you using a Nexus7? Have you seen/heard of the Parrot Asteroid Smart? It is Android based and uses apps, I have worked with a few and they seem decent. Would make for a much easier setup.
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    1. I'm still researching the proper DAC to get. Likely I'll get one of those "portable" ones with only 3.5mm in to RCA L/R (Red/White) out, and wire it up that way. From the harness, wire the cables up to some RCA Jacks and solder them together, plug in, call it a day. Think I need to grab a higher end one (The ones that are like $200+)? There's also a RE Audio Bluetooth 4-channel amp I was thinking of grabbing instead of the DAC but I'm waiting to hear back from them on availability. Stream everything wireless to the amp that's plugged into the speakers directly, bypass/remove the factory amp, call it a day.
    2. Noted on the amp / cigarette lighter wiring job.
    3. I already have the CANBus module, so I'll not return it and wire it in.
    4. Yer good for nuthin'! :P


    Nexus 7 because it fits almost perfectly in the factory hole, without much modification. Only modifications I need to do are a small bit of filing on some of the factory plastic columns the screws go into so it snaps back into place with the tablet in place. Was really a "I lucked out" situation. I already bought the Nexus 7 and it pairs with my Sony Xperia Z1 so it has Nav and everything that the Parrot would have, and at a substantially less cost.
    Last edited by Wiltron; 05-29-2014 at 07:54 AM.

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    Okay...now that I understand a little more what you are looking to do...

    In terms of the "portable" DAC, a simple 3.5mm to RCA, are you saying you would plug it in to the headphone jack of the Nexus?

    If that is what you are thinking, skip the DAC altogether, use a simple 3.5mm to RCA cable, put your money into a 2 channel amp. If you will be using a USB based DAC (they are out there) then that is a different story, and I say yes get the DAC but still run it to an aftermarket 2 channel amp.


    Skip a 4 channel amp because you will have no way of sending 4 channels of audio to the amp and without a 4 channel signal there will be no fader control anyway. The only other reason (aside from fading) for you to use a 4 channel amp would be to run the factory (or an aftermarket) sub off channels 3 and 4 while running the 4 speakers off 1 and 2, but you have already removed the sub so again a 4 channel would be pointless.

    There is actually another reason why you would run a 4 channel over a 2 channel and that depends on impedance of the factory speakers...if the impedance of the factory speakers is 2 ohm then will need a 4 channel, if it is above 2 ohm and closer to 4 ohm then you can get away with a 2 channel. I do not have the answer to that, maybe somebody who has tested them can chime in.

    Also, are the factory tweeters using a passive crossover or is the factory amp using an active crossover? This will make a difference in how the factory tweeters get wired back into the system.


    Bypass the factory amplifier altogether and remove it...if you can get a 2 channel small enough to fit in the factory amp location it would be awesome (Kenwood makes one that is under 10"x8") as you wouldn't have to find a place to mount it and all of the speaker wiring you need would be right there. You would need to run the 3.5mm to RCA cable from the factory radio location to the amplifier, the "remote" turn on from wherever you grab it (lighter socket if not maintaining the CAN module - or CAN module if you are <--- be sure to wire in a relay if you are keeping the CAN module, I can touch on that later). Main power to the amp SHOULD go underhood to the battery, but with an amp like that Kenwood you could get away with using 10 AWG to keep the price down.


    Do you really need the CAN module? At this point, all it is going to be used for is power and ground, and that is already present in the factory harness. Unless you absolutely MUST have RAP, then you don't even need it for accessory power because, as I have said, you can grab it from the lighter socket. If it is possible to return it, use the $200 towards an amp, wiring, etc.



    Any wiring you do where you bypass the amp and/or not use the CAN module, do it by tapping in BEHIND the factory plug, DON'T cut the wires or cut the plugs off...too many times I see people who have chopped the plugs of or cut a wire too close to the plug and it renders them useless if the need to go back to factory ever came up. Leave the plugs intact and strip away some insulation about 3 or 4 inches back and tap in there.




    As for question/answer/retort number 4...

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    I think one project I should tackle is to re-wire and neatly put everything in the Jeep properly. Currently the wiring is a mess and probably a fire hazard.

    I'll do a seven birds with one stone situation. Disconnect and trash the CB I've not turned on in over a year, remove the extra wire that was installed for "additional accessories", use the 10AWG cables from the CB to connect to the Amp, rewire the HID kit properly and install it correctly (currently just sitting tucked away beside the battery), rewire the Dually D2s properly so wiring isn't showing (might as well file and repaint the brackets that are rusting too), and then properly wire up the Nexus directly to the amp and a 3.5mm splitter as suggested, tossing out the DAC idea/concept.

    Looks like my weekend is filled up now

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    LOL I had a similar project a few weeks ago in prep for 101...rewire everything that had been tossed it "just to make it work" in a hurry before an event...I finally took everything back out, re-ran where the wires go, colour coded most of it, soldered everything, shrink tubed, taped, loomed, etc.

    Looks a lot better now and I am much more confident I won't have any issues with it. I even added in cab winch controls and some fancy dancy fan wiring that triggers the electric fan to come on with the AC clutch.



    Keep us posted on the Nexus project...it may be very helpful for others in the future as tablets become even more prominent than they already are. Keep it to this thread, take lots of pics, include all the important info...we can make it a sticky in the future.

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    I just found out from a car audio shop that what I want to do, the way I want to do it, is not possible without breaking over $1000 for the install.

    The problem is the way that the head unit talks to the amp, and in order to do what I need, I need a USB OTG cable, a USB DAC, a High to Low line level converter, a digital to analog processor, CANbus Adapter, wiring harness and a 2 or 4 channel amp (without or with tweeters working, respectively), a crossover/equalizer, and then I'd need to pay for custom fiberglassing of the dash as all of that wouldn't fit in the spot where a radio head unit used to go.

    So, he said "just grab the shittiest head unit you can find with front USB, AUX 3.5mm and Bluetooth, and wire it up but leave it not installed fully - make it so it's secure, but far enough back in the hole that the tablet can fit over top. Pair up the bluetooth on the headunit with your phone for audio, and then pair with the tablet, AND use the 3.5mm aux. Then install with steering wheel control module so you can control the volume without having to remove your Nexus 7. The audio head unit will be on bluetooth at all times and from here on out should never be moved off of bluetooth.

    "That is your cheapest solution, and best solution" he advised me, and said that if I can find one of the shitty basic stock CD players then install that, but remove the front facing plastic trim so it fits nicely inside the hole.

    Looks like I'll be researching some Pyle head units with bluetooth, USB and AUX now..

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    Wiring up a tablet+DAC to Factory Infinity Amp/Speakers

    LOL what car audio shop is it that wants to sell you a shitload of product and labour?

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    The one I walked out of..

    I'm just going to grab the Kenwood KMM-308U, throw one of those waterproof rubber socks on it (they're used in marine installs) and mount it in the glovebox or centre console (after running some additional wire), and then bluetooth pair it.

    Then I can grab a shitty plastic case for the Nexus 7, glue it to the inside of factory trim, mount up a USB power supply and bobs your uncle..

    If shit ever goes down I can still pair it all up again without having to tear apart the dash. I can use the factory amp, harness, and tweeters stay intact. Volume control isn't that far away. So much easier and neat.

    A question for you though: Are there any potential problems you can see from running from the CANbus adapter wiring harness to the Kenwood wiring harness, about 6 feet or so of wire (to extend it)?
    Last edited by Wiltron; 06-09-2014 at 01:07 PM.

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    Wiring up a tablet+DAC to Factory Infinity Amp/Speakers

    Nope. Just extend everything. BUT regardless of how long the wires are (even if you kept it all in the factory location) be sure to run a relay on the accessory wire (red) to boost current capacity. Every one of those modules I have seen can only provide about 1 amp. Not typically enough to power a deck.

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    The AppRadio3 I had before I went down the Nexus 7 route, worked fine - was a more powerful 2DIN Nav/DVD and what not..

    Still need a relay you think?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiltron View Post
    Still need a relay you think?
    Your call...I've just seen more than a few of these interface modules shit the bed on the accessory output because a relay was not used. Most of the instructions for these modules clearly say to use a relay. For the few bucks it is worth, why not...


    Terminal 85 to ground
    Terminal 86 to accessory wire (red) from module
    Terminal 30 to constant power (I would just tap into the yellow in the aftermarket harness/module)
    Terminal 87 is the output to the accessory wire for the deck (red)

    If you use female spade terminals to connect to the relay make sure to wrap tape around them/the relay body to prevent any shorts...if you use a relay harness then disregard that comment (although I typically wrap tape around the socket of the relay harness and relay to prevent them from sliding apart (unlikely but you never know).

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    I have a bunch of those with a rubber boot that slides over top (kinda like shrink wrap, but it doesn't shrink)

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