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Thread: YJ Project Back To Basics Who Needs One Tons?

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    YJ Project Back To Basics Who Needs One Tons?

    So figured I should give some of the YJ guys some faith that there are a few of us still around and playing with these things. Goal for this third time around build is to keep it simple and still street-able yet gain some more off-road capability. Going to be doing a proper SOA setup and converting to Autotragic. Jeep will stay on 35's so the stock axles with the current super kits should be sufficient and provide better ground clearance then going larger.

    The Jeep has led quite a few lives over the years as a test mule for many different companies and parts. I can honestly say most parts on it have been replaced 3-5 times just trying different things out. It's time to clean her up and pull the stickers off and build it once and for all to enjoy for what she is which is a clean simple YJ.

    Parts List So Far:
    #Winters Shifter
    #1526S - JBA SS Header
    #RE1444 - Rubicon Express Springs
    #RE1445 - Rubicon Express Springs
    #RE2775 - Rubicon Express Boomerang Shackles
    #RE1920 - Rubicon Express Front Offset Spring Perch
    #RE1930 - Rubicon Express Rear Spring Perch
    #RE2420 - Rubicon Express Rear U-Bolt Kit
    #RE2421 - Rubicon Express Front U-Bolt Kit
    #RE2055 - Rubicon Express Spring Plate
    #TB500 - M.O.R.E. Rear Anti Wrap Bar
    #9930 - M.O.R.E. High Steer
    #9800 - JKS Slip Joint Front Trac Bar

    Current Jeep as she sits:

    4.0L, AX15, NP231 with Omix-ADA SYE
    4" Procomp with MX6's and 1 1/4 Shackle
    RE Motor-mount lift
    Rear Super 35 with Detroit
    Front Super 30 open

















    Last edited by RBJeepThing; 12-09-2013 at 07:00 PM.
    Poster does not represent or warrant the the information accessible via this post is accurate or complete. Except as specifically stated on this post, neither rbjeepthing nor any of his affiliates, will be liable for damages arising out of or in connection with the use of this post.

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    a learning experience is one of those things that says, you know that thing you just did...don't do that again.

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    Rock on
    IT'S TWEETER B!TCHEZ
    Quote Originally Posted by Pav1 View Post
    "PIPPI APPROVED"
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    1997 TJ sport Rollin' on 33's "Woah Black Betty"

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    So some goodies have been slowly trickling in.

    Picked up my Winters shifter from the good sir Jim Macdonald. Although we are able to supply them as well sometimes it's just easier and in this case quicker and more cost effective to have purchased it through him. For those who do not know you can custom order the pattern which in the pattern I chose I will remove the tab between 3rd and reverse. This allows a straight no-lock shot to reverse in the case of a roll over where i need to bring the front end back down quick.




    Next up was the M.O.R.E. Anti wrap bar or sometimes referred to as a traction bar. What this does is it prevents the axle from trying to flip over itself creating yoke/ujoint issues as well as spring issues too. Lots of people choose to build these themselves but after looking at the costs of purchasing the parts themselves and having them professionally coated it was less expensive to purchase one already made since I do not require a custom length. M.O.R.E. supply's all the bracketry and hardware required as well as greasable bolts. Overall a very well thought out and made piece.




    Another product from M.O.R.E. was their stage one high steer kit for the D30. One of the biggest problems that often gets over looked or half assed when going SOA is the steering setup. When it comes to HS setups for the D30 you have basically 4 options: M.O.R.E, Rocky Road, Teraflex Knuckle, WJ Knuckle. I chose the M.O.R.E. setup based on a few different things such as replacement parts availability, quality, reputation, ease of install and price.







    Lastly were the traditional Rubicon Express SOA components. They were the pioneers of this stuff back in the day. Coming out with the three whole design to be able to easily change wheel base or prevent spring wrap. The front spring perches are offset allowing the perch to be properly located over the pumpkin on the driver side. Its small details like this that should make the install easy peasy.






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    What transmission is going in? 32RH?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hustler View Post
    what transmission is going in? 32rh?
    tf999

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    IM GOING TO FECAL IN YOUR GARDEN

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    So spent the past Saturday afternoon ripping out the old drive-train. Everything came out smoothly except for the HP line off of the PS pump. No biggie got it all out and the shop cleaned up in just under 4 hours. Not to bad for a parts guy who is based out of a desk for most the day if I do say so myself...lol. Figured I'd snap some pics to show the condition of the Jeep underneath. If only every YJ was this clean when it comes to corrosion issues!


















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    That sure is a clean YJ!
    Obsessed about offroading and moved from Spain to Vaughan.

    Owner of a never ending YJ project: BUILD THREAD
    Winter beater 1998 Toyota 4Runner
    Owner of a Suzuki Sammy back in Spain
    www.d-limit.com

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    Well got a little bit more done on New Years Eve. Got the rebuilt engine back into the engine bay with the new water pump/tstat and JBA header installed. Figured while it was out why not replace all the difficult to get to gaskets as well. If anyone doesn't know Felpro makes these newer blue gaskets that we never have issues with. Way better then any cork or traditional; rubber gasket when it comes to sealing the engine up.

    Also started working on the D30 by welding on the new offset perches and removing the old ones and shock mounts. An old school trick is to place the axle on jack stands and zero the stock perches out with a degree finder. Once zeroed out you then line up the centers on the new perches and zero them out then weld in place. What this does is keep the castor at the factory specs. Anything bigger then 35's and id recommend adding a couple of degrees.

    After messing around with the pain in the butt stuff figured I'd put in the new Rubicon Express Boomerang shackles and SOA springs. Every time I take something apart I use anti seize during install which allowed for a quick 15min job. The new shackles have greasable bolts in them so the tradition of things on this Jeep coming apart easily will remain. Not to mention friction while flexing should be lessened as well.










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    So got working on the Tranny and T-case aspect over the last week. Now anyone who knows about auto's and offroading knows Art Carr/Winters makes some of the best shifters out there. However that being said for some reason they engineered them on 2wd applications so when it comes to the 4wd stuff there linkage sometimes does not work correctly. One would assume there would be lots of info online but nope that's not the case. Very little pics available and very little solutions. Most posts just say "got it to work" or "hits driveshaft". So this is my attempt at maybe adding some more pics and info for some solutions for the people still running the stock tranny/tcase combo.

    1. Problem: Clearly you can see the linkage would hit the stock tranny lines.
    Solution: Use Russell fittings and lines (I will provide part numbers and pics when completed)

    2. Problem: When in the park position the linkage would hit the front driveshaft with the stock NP231 drivers side front output.
    Solution: Custom make brackets and linkage. (Again I will provide part numbers and pics when completed)

    Stock linkage


    New linkage installed


    No clearance issues in drive


    Lots of issues in park

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    Ok so the Russell fittings for my factory fuel rail and fuel lines came in. Back when I did the 4cyl to 6cyl conversion I could not save the factory fuel flex lines and they were different from the 6cyl to 4cyl. For the mean time I just used some high pressure hose and fuel clamps and did with that but I never really trusted the setup. eventually I knew I would splurge and go the proper route with Russell.

    I decided to use Russell's new Twist Lock system due to the fact the fuel lines are well protected. The lines are not braided but are considerably more stout then the stock setup or my jimmy rigged one. At the frame rail I will be using two #6 AN to 5/16 quick connect and at the fuel rail one #6 AN to 5/16 quick connect and one #6 AN to 3/8 quick connect. For the actual lines themselves just 4 #6 AN straights and 10 feet cut down to two 3 foot lengths of#6 AN Blue Twistlok Line.

    And here is your bone people!

    #624010 x 4 Twist Lok 6AN Straight
    #640863 x 3 #6 AN to 5/16 quick connect
    #640853 x 1 #6 AN to 3/8 quick connect
    #634140 x 1 Twist Lok Blue Hose 6AN 10'




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    YJ Project Back To Basics Who Needs One Tons?

    Nice!!
    Wounds heal... Chicks dig scars...

    1984 CJ-8 Scrambler (Rust Free California Edition)
    2005 TJ Unlimited
    1946 Willys CJ-2a "Pa2niA" Featured in JPFreek (click me)

  14. #14
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    That Russell twist lock stuff is nice. Looking forward to seeing progress on this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Karma View Post
    Nice!!
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by NINE-T-1-RENEGADE View Post
    That Russell twist lock stuff is nice. Looking forward to seeing progress on this.
    Woah that's a name I have not seen in awhile. Have fun following along!

    So got a little bit more done before this weekend push. Got the front axle temp to see where she is going to end of sitting as well to get some DS measurements and ponder shock mounting locations. Pretty happy with the height although If it was a 100% wheeler I'd definitely prefer for it to be lower. It looks fairly proportionate to the 35's when on the ground which i was worried it would be a little too tall.

    I also got the tranny and tcase back in so I can start mocking up the console for the new shifter. Also again to get a proper front DS measurement. I run a 1" motor mount lift with no body lift so it's clear the auto sits slightly higher. I had to trim the tunnel a bit for the tcase linkage to clear. No big deal since I had to make a new cover anyways to delete the 5spd shifter hole.

    After closer inspection the fuel feed line is going to be too close for my comfort to the exhaust so I ordered some DEI heat sheathing to protect the feed side just in case of boiling as it passes the exhaust. As for the return not to concerned as I know it wont contact or have an issue with boiling.

    So onto the ever growing part incoming list:

    Performance accessories universal shock mounts #SM2100 (We slice these in the middle to shrink them as they are slightly to wide for a standard shock)
    DEI (Design Engineering INC) #010403 heat sheath 3/4" dia x 3ft
    Pico SS Insulated Clips #7418-34








  16. #16
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    I still can't get over how clean that YJ is, nice build.
    2005 Rubicon Unlimited

  17. #17
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    ^thanks

    So not a big update other then some more crack came in ugh I mean Russel products...lol. These are all the fittings and hose that is required to make tranny lines from a TF999 to the stock aftermarket rad. eventually i will put an upgraded aluminum rad in with an aux cooler but that will have to wait till she is on the road.

    Russell products used for tranny lines:

    #6 634140 x 1 Twist Lok Blue Hose 6AN 10'
    #6 624160 x 2 #6 AN 90* Degree
    #6 660440 x 1 #6 AN to 1/4 NPT Straight
    #6 660820 x 1 #6 AN to 1/4 NPT 90* Degree
    #6 624080 x 2 #6 AN 90* Degree
    1009904 ARP Thread Sealer (Used on NPT threads)

    Now you will notice the two 45* and the two 90* I'm quite sure if all these are going to be used yet but will update below once the lines are completed with pics and which ones I did not use.


  18. #18
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    So I spent Friday evening/night (6pm to 1am) buttoning up all the lines and misc small things in the engine bay with the goal of firing her up for the first time in a long while. Pretty happy with the outcome as she fired right up with the aid of a little quick start. The engine was rebuilt about 6 years ago and there were a million different suggestions on the procedure to fire an engine that had been sitting that long. Ultimately I made sure the valve train was lubricated when I removed the valve cover for gasket replacement. Then once all the fluids were replaced I cranked it till I saw oil pressure with the fuel pump relay out. I then installed the relay and she fired right up, what a relief...lol

    Russell Fitting Update Tranny Lines:

    As for the tranny lines used a 45* on the front and a 90* on the rear.












  19. #19
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    nice job, looking good
    Member & Supporter of:
    Rockspyder4x4, Krawlerz Off-Road Enthusiasts, Central Ontario 4x4, Canadian Nissan Truck Club, London & Area Jeep Owners Club, Tri-city Jeep Club, and Ontario Federation of 4wd Recreationalists

  20. #20
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    ^thanks!

    So once again slowly progressing. Got my M.O.R.E. high steer kit mocked up and installed. I plan on throwing down a couple of beads on the knuckle to bracket as well just for some extra precaution. There are not many D30 high steer setups around since most of them just didn't seem to last. The brackets would crack or the knuckles would fail but M.O.R.E. is one you see little to no issues with. Before purchasing I spoke to a few people who have had theirs for 10+ years of wheeling in the southwest with no problems at all on 35's and 37's.

    The install went fairly smooth other then the fact drilling out the hardened drop pitman arm was a pita. Not sure why but their instructions tell you to put the heim on top of the pitman arm so that is what I did. I may try it below to see what happens since the angle would be that much better. Even at full droop it's far less then th stock setup.





    Last edited by RBJeepThing; 03-13-2014 at 03:56 PM. Reason: spelling

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