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Thread: My TMR customs TJ long arm upgrade! PIC HEAVY

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    Talking My TMR customs TJ long arm upgrade! PIC HEAVY

    Hey guys! The time has come for my TMR long arm kit install. This is by far the biggest project I've taken on so preeeeety I'm fired up to do this :2thumbsup:
    If I'm doing something dumb, or missing/overlooking something please let me know! :cheers2: I'm taking my time and making sure I'm doing everything properly... lots of reading has been done prior to pulling the trigger on this.

    ****To skip the BS and see all the pictures... heres the album link! http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/sl...?sort=3&page=1****

    So the details!
    I'm using these two kits:
    http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/inde...oducts_id=1276

    http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/inde...oducts_id=1277

    on my 2000 TJ. It's got an 8.8 rear and a D44 front. Somewhere around 4 inches of suspension lift (skyjacker?). OME shocks.












    The ride quality has been pretty rough as expected, and the rear end binds like crazy when flexing.. twice breaking the upper control arm mounts off the frame. First, when simply driving on Hwy 401, the second, bombing around in the pits.

    passengers side


    and the remaining drivers side was about to let off


    So I figured, F it! I'm going for it.

    BOOM


    Last edited by stuckinmud; 09-01-2014 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Added album link

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    SO now for the fun stuff.
    Started pulling the rear axle. It didn't take too long for me to run into problems. The lower shock mount bolts were impossible to turn, both my impact gun and by breaker bar. After reasonable amount of time trying to undue the bolts, I decided to cut 'em off.






    Finally, got the axle out. Control arms had no real problems coming out... a little persuasion from the multi-angle swing press did the trick.


    axle out! I was daydreaming about the truss and had it resting on the axle.




    ohhhh can't wait



    quite the mess..



    And now the disaster. Discovered the reaaaaal soft spot in the frame is softer than I had thought. Prying against it was a bad idea. Another thing for the to do list.


    This is as far as I got on day 1. half the brackets rough cut off.


    More to come.. I'll try to do nightly updates.


    Way too excited! :2thumbsup:

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    Quote Originally Posted by stuckinmud View Post
    quite the mess..
    Your neighbours must love you...Jeep owners, bringing property values down on a daily basis.



    Side note...that real soft area...drill a hole in the bottom of the frame rail so the shit that gets stuck there can drain when you wash the frame out with a hose.
    His ---> 04 LJ - 4.0L, Auto ɹnoɟ pɐǝɹʇǝɹ
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    My frame was rotted through there too. I made some custom plates to go over that area but also bought pieces from "auto rust technology" to go over the skidplate area. They actually make some good stuff.
    http://autorust.com/store/jeep/rear_..._two_art-124-s

    Something to look in to. If you look on my build (link in my signature) you'll see where I used their parts and where I used my own cap that I made.
    PAX ARMIS ACQUIRITUR
    99 TJ, HPD60/14B, TMR Customs 3 and 4 link, 40's.

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    this will be cool
    http://www.youtube.com/user/piratexpress1369a
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    Only advice I have after mine is to grind the truss untill it sits as low as possible. Up travel will be at a premium without hitting things like the tub in the rear and the oil pan in the front unless you are planning tons of lift.
    2010 JK Unlimited Sahara, rubi axles, 35" duratracs, OME lift: Written off, RIP.
    2006 LJ Rubicon Lots of stuff from TMR installed by CT Motorsports (see profile if you want to know) project once more with feeling
    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    Listen to the wise Drizit
    Hey he said it not me.
    There Must have been a time when we could have said no.

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    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    Do you plan on cutting off the rear upper spring perches and rotating them back to get the spring alignment back closer to vertical?

    Like what Tim did here, I would actually link the pic but they don't seem to be working right...you can kinda see what I mean in the 5th pic I believe...hopefully...
    I was questioning that myself. To be honest, I was going to leave them as is. I'm not going any higher... for what it's worth. Do you think this is a necessity? or is it just for the sake of having it look proper? I've never heard anything about doing this. I noticed it was pretty heinous with the short arms, how bowed the spring gets. I thought (and hoped) with the LA that would bring it back to at least reasonably straight. How much bend is too much though?


    Quote Originally Posted by Drizit View Post
    Only advice I have after mine is to grind the truss untill it sits as low as possible. Up travel will be at a premium without hitting things like the tub in the rear and the oil pan in the front unless you are planning tons of lift.
    Yeah, for sure. When I went to pick up the kit Tim told me to do that too. I'm going to do some tests to try to figure out how low it really needs to come down. Mind you, It's 4" springs, with a 2" body lift... so we'll see how the clearance is tomorrow. I'll try to update as I do it.




    Thanks for the advice guys!

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    Quote Originally Posted by stuckinmud View Post
    I was questioning that myself. To be honest, I was going to leave them as is. I'm not going any higher... for what it's worth. Do you think this is a necessity? or is it just for the sake of having it look proper? I've never heard anything about doing this. I noticed it was pretty heinous with the short arms, how bowed the spring gets. I thought (and hoped) with the LA that would bring it back to at least reasonably straight. How much bend is too much though?!
    A necessity? No.

    How much bend is too much? When the springs shoot out the back, LOL.



    The only way to get the spring to straighten out would be to rotate the axle forward (pinion down) and that would negatively impact driveshaft/ujoint angles.

    I will be changing mine at some point, if for no other reason than, to get the bumpstop alignment closer to stock. The angle change on mine coupled with an extended bumpstop caused me to break off a rear bumpstop last year, probably an uncommon and really odd break that likely had other factors involved but in my opinion if the work is being done, why not fix the potential issue.

    I mean you are already there it's not much more work to cut the two cups off and move them back.

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    I'd rotate the perches and throw a little stretch in while you're at it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...fuel-tank.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt's_97 View Post
    I'd rotate the perches and throw a little stretch in while you're at it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...fuel-tank.html
    That's way too sweet. I love it. unfortunately, it's a little too late for that. gah. Never would have even thought of that.

    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    A necessity? No.

    How much bend is too much? When the springs shoot out the back, LOL.



    The only way to get the spring to straighten out would be to rotate the axle forward (pinion down) and that would negatively impact driveshaft/ujoint angles.

    I will be changing mine at some point, if for no other reason than, to get the bumpstop alignment closer to stock. The angle change on mine coupled with an extended bumpstop caused me to break off a rear bumpstop last year, probably an uncommon and really odd break that likely had other factors involved but in my opinion if the work is being done, why not fix the potential issue.

    I mean you are already there it's not much more work to cut the two cups off and move them back.
    LOL yeah, that'll do 'er eh! I do have a SYE, so I can get away with a little bit of misalignment.. but I'm trying to keep it as close to where it should be as possible. This is my first Jeep fab project, believe it or not. So lots to learn along the way.
    I was definitely looking at cutting the stops off and moving them... They're not actually equal distance either from diff to perch, or wheel bearing flange to perch. The entire axle is offset. Weeeiiird.

    Had the axle jacked all the way up to bumpstops today, everything aligned perfectly, aside from the obvious horseshoe of the springs. maybe when i do new springs I'll tackle that project too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Drizit View Post
    I have 3.5" springs and a 1.25" body lift, I have about 3" of rear shock shaft showing. About 4" of shock in the front.

    The shock length was chosen based on where things got into the body (or oil pan) . My rear truss is quite close the front could have used some more trimming but I had to leave room for the arb hose
    Got the truss on, lifted the axle till it hit both bump stops. the only clearance issue i had was the UCA's hitting the floor of the jeep. Truss still had 3-4" of clearance before hitting the floor. I moved the UCA's into the lower bolt holes, and BOOM. Perfection.

    As for the front end, I have no idea what i'm going to run into with that. I have an ox locker in the front, so the cable may be in the way. Hmmmmm.
    Deciding shock length will be the next thing on the list too. My current OME shocks are no where neaaaar long enough to really work the suspension.

    I'm feelin pretty lazy right now. But I will post the current progress in an hour... Lots got done today!

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    I have 3.5" springs and a 1.25" body lift, I have about 3" of rear shock shaft showing. About 4" of shock in the front.

    The shock length was chosen based on where things got into the body (or oil pan) . My rear truss is quite close the front could have used some more trimming but I had to leave room for the arb hose
    Last edited by Drizit; 06-23-2014 at 01:11 AM.

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    I ended up finding Bilstines in the length I needed. May be a good place to start looking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizit View Post
    I ended up finding Bilstines in the length I needed. May be a good place to start looking.
    Yeah will do!




    OOOOOKAY so here we go

    So today was a really productive day. It all started out with the big gaping holes that were all over the one section of my frame. I used 1/4 plate steel to make some patches. For now, I only did the inside of the frame where it would be a PITA with the control arms in the way, just for the sake of time.

    Before



    after



    woohoo! strength once again. NOW, onto the fun stuff.

    I cleaned up the entire axle with a wire wheel in preparation for paint. May as well!



    once that was done, I moved onto the frame brackets. what I had ALMOST done was totally f*ck them up. Somehow, I didnt notice the t case skid isnt just straight across, it actually has an indent in the passenger side. Glad I noticed!






    So now that those are tacked on, Time to turn my attention to the axle again.
    Got the LCA brackets tacked on, as well as the truss. Centered the axle via plumb bob, then used a straight edge from the frame brackets to figure out where exactly the axle brackets should line up. I'm sure theres a more technical way to do it, but meh this worked well for me.

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    Now here's the weird ****.
    My 8.8 is actually offset, so the pinion is lined up center to the vehicle, making the axle itself offset, requiring a wheel spacer on the one side. I figured, OK, well I'll re center the axle and lose that stupid spacer... no big deal. Well, It was a little more of a task than I had anticipated... since the coil spring platforms were also unequal distance from both the wheel bearing flange, as well as the diff. Blegh. Running out of time, and no new perches to use... Unfortunately I just put the axle back exactly how it was; offset. Not ideal, but hey... it works.



    I banged the JJ's in to get an Idea of control arm length.


    BOOM.



    Both sides in! now for the uppers....

    Not too many pics of that part. I was haulin a$$ trying to get this jeep sitting on its wheels again today before the rain moved in... Didn't quiiiite make it. SO CLOSE THOUGH.

    Anyway... All tacked up, ready for flex test!!!!!




    Here we go!

    Ran out of jack height, but it will touch bump stop without any interference. At first, the UCAs would hit the floor of the jeep. Moved them down a hole on both brackets, and boom! clearance issues are no more.





    Is that not the sexiest thing ever?!

    So now I really see that my shocks and springs are about half the length they need to be. So that'll be hopefully before winter to be replaced.

    Well, there was no binding, everything was measured 100x to ensure square and straight... and so, the welding begins.

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    Time for part 2!!!!

    I`m back with part 2: the front 3 link.

    While I was pulling out the front axle, I realized the front locker (ox cable) was in the way...
    I had 2 options. disconnect the cable from the lever, or just bang off the diff cover and be done with it. I decided to go for the diff cover.. and I`m happy I did.

    A little back story here. A few weeks ago I was in a buddies quarry, got a little brave.. and kinda wheelied my jeep over a berm. Upon landing.. I detonated my front axle shaft`s u joint. (dana 44) ......
    that sucked.

    Fast forward to yesterday, day 1 of the front end. I bang off the diff cover, and this is what I see....





    NOOOOOOOO. That sucks. Never noticed anything weird in the front end, so thats interesting. that`s after also driving in 4 wheel with it broken. weird.

    So now, I just unlocked my hubs and it no longer moves. Still.. another thing to the list.

    ANYWAYS. Now for what we`re here for.

    Banged out the front axle in about 2 hours. This was sooooo much easier than the PITA that the rear was.



    Notice the diff cover hanging lol. Ah, good enough.

    another little surprise. Great. May as well galvanize the inside of the cover since its off...



    brackets removed! This was way too easy.. until I got to the track bar bracket. That.. SUCKED.





    this is about all that i could be bothered trying to get at with a cut off disk. the rest was taken off with a grinding stone and flap wheel.



    Cleaned up the axle... may as well paint it while its out. the truss is just sitting on there so i can drool for a little before it goes on.


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    Welded up the brackets.. these ones came partially disassembled so you can pick which side gets the upper link.



    Tacked the brackets onto the frame.. then moved the axle into place to figure out LCA bracket location.

    This time, i used my head. I measured the distance between fender and knuckle when sitting on springs... so I just put the axle back to that height to set pinion angle and whatnot. Again, close enough for now.




    got the truss tacked on.. and cut my tubes for the LCA`s. Thats about it for tonight!


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    Not bad for a kid, right?

    So this is where I had to pull the chute. The rain moved in just as I prepared to start welding the last things; the CA's. Faaawk. Maybe if theres a break in the weather tomorrow I'll finally finish this. I'm not sure if I have enough time to do the front end too this time around.. it may be delayed. I still have to do all new brake lines, galvanize and paint the axle and frame.. lots to be done yet. Way too fired up to drive this thing though.

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    Looks good, you'll love the long arm.

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    Looking good. Subscribed to see the finished product.
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