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Thread: UN lifting a jeep

  1. #1
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    UN lifting a jeep

    Out of curiosity, can I simply swap lift springs out for stock springs on a long arm lift (Rubicon Express for example) and run stock height with the added travel? Or will the links now rub on up travel?

    I prefer a low centre of gravity (L.C.G) but most jeeps I'm looking at are already lifted. Just a thought.

    I know I know, un lifting a jeep is ass backwards…..

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    How much up travel does the rig have available at the moment? Keep in mind it will be a constantly on the bump stops if you don't have at least 3 or 4"

    Steering and track bars tend to be one of the major culprits when trying to stay low
    2010 JK Unlimited Sahara, rubi axles, 35" duratracs, OME lift: Written off, RIP.
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    ^ Yeah, depends on what's on it. I have a 2" lift and finding track bars that center an axle at that height, making my Savvy/Currie steering clear and work as it should, and keeping the miscellaneous front diff out of the track bar-type issues at bay is a handful.

    Not to mention, it will also need new shocks.

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    I didn't buy a nice Jeep because it had a long arm lift and I couldn't put it back easily. They cut off all the factory lower control arm mounts from the frame.

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    I'm still in the dark here? If I buy a lifted jeep can I retain the links and merely put stock springs on it? essentially retaining the travel without the lift?

    I don't have the garage height for a lift with 35's, so I'd rather lose lift and cut body panels than lose the 35's……any thoughts. ???

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    It has ALOT of variables. First, if you throw stock coils back in on a long arm with 4-5" lift shocks the coils will probably fall out when you flex it, or jump it over a barn. To solve that, shorter shocks with limit straps, or better would be longer coils but soft in rate to take up the slack, but keep the low height. Worn out WK aftermarket stock replacement springs would work well. That's just the front though. No idea on the back.

    Next, I'd check out the all the awesome clearance issues at full bump. If your bump stops are lowered for the lift, take em out and see how low you can go before the problems start. Then set your new bump height around 1.5-2" higher then contact. That's about as low as you can go without moving stuff. But finding the rite spring to put you there is the harder problem.

    I have no idea on what has been done to the steering system for the lift, but it's probably not as easy as putting stock stuff back on. Your stock steering would probably bind bad with long arm droop. If all that was done is a drop pitman arm then that might hit at stock height.

    Most long arms push out the wheel base a bit, and change the arc of travel(why there better), so just dropping it back down isn't as simple as you may think.
    To many variables. Just take the springs out, and drop it down to see how to do it.
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    Double post again. Site is being funny. I'm outta here

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadzooks2 View Post
    Out of curiosity, can I simply swap lift springs out for stock springs on a long arm lift (Rubicon Express for example) and run stock height with the added travel? Or will the links now rub on up travel?

    I prefer a low centre of gravity (L.C.G) but most jeeps I'm looking at are already lifted. Just a thought.

    I know I know, un lifting a jeep is ass backwards…..
    Long arm to stock? Maybe if they're ultra adjustable. With any lift high enough to warrant new control arms, if you remove the actual lift part you put the caster and pinion angles waaay past acceptable.

    My suggestion? Sell the lift components and buy stock! Hell if you like the Jeep but not the lift I'm sure you can find someone to do a trade + cash on here.
    But our trip was different. It was to be a classic affirmation of everything right and true in the national character. A gross physical salute to the fantastic possibilities of life in this country. But only for those with true grit.

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  9. #9
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    Helpful responses guys, (gals?) thanks very much.

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