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Thread: xj electric cooling fan upgrade

  1. #1
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    xj electric cooling fan upgrade

    My mechanical fan started to squeal - the bearings were shot. It seems the bearings are not easily replaceable, so with the nice weather I decided to just make the upgrade.
    My bracket stuck out really far.
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    I had 2 brackets in stock which I thought I could use. I believe the one on the left is from a ZJ and the one on the right was from a 1993 XJ. I did not have the extra pulley on my 1998 XJ.
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    I tried to remove my mechanical fan bracket, but I couldn't and ended up cutting the pulley off.
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    From what I could find, the electric fan I got from the scrap yard came out of a Dodge Dakota, Mopar part # 52030033AD
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    Because I used the modified stock bracket I needed a belt that is about 80". I used a Goodyear Gatorback 4060802 or 6PK2040 from PartSource, it was about $20. I think I could have also used 6PK2060, but it was about $50.
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    The belt rubbed the bottom of the alternator bracket a bit, so out came the sawzall and grinder again. This is a picture of the belt installed and the Jeep running.
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    Since it got dark and need my Jeep, I ended up wiring the fan to my fog light relay. It seems to work really well.

    Tomorrow I'll finish the wiring.
    I'll either use:
    1 - an adjustable temp switch with the probe that goes in between the rad cooling fins, which I'm not a fan of.
    2 - A BMW coolant temp switch that comes on at 95 (203F) and off at 90 (194F). The part numbers are: Four Seasons 36511, NAPA ATM 1435033, Blue Streak TS288. PartSource can order the Blue Streak part and they list it for about $41.
    Angelo
    1998 Jeep Cherokee - 2dr, 4.0, Auto, 231 4x4
    1980 MGB - 3.4V6, T5 transmission, Ford 8.8 posi.
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  2. #2
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    Any other pics of the install? I am doing the Taurus fan upgrade soon I hope and getting rid of my mechanical fan. Mine might be squealing too. I'm not sure if it's the fan or not lol

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  3. #3
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    did you not have the manual and electrical fan combo (can't see in pics, but doesn't look like it)?
    if you did could you not just tap into the present electrical fan trigger and have both come on simultaneously?

    one more mod to watch and learn from
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    I used a DCC controller years ago, but he takes a looooong time building each unit, worth the wait though.
    Another option is a Dakota Fan controller, as it somewhat customizable, and you get a visual display. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd852.htm

    If you tap off the stock e-fan, it may not work out as they were a secondary measure, so only came on at higher temps as an emergency kinda deal, A/C, etc.

    This is a great mod if done right, and you should notice an increase in mileage. If I remember correctly I got about 30km extra each tank, on average.
    insert something witty here

  5. #5
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    I'll be doing this swap as well soon. More info on ways to wire it would be appreciated ( not trying to hijack your thread )
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  6. #6
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    I still have the stock electric fan on the drivers side. I had thought about using 2 stock electric fans, but they don't move enough air. Also, I believe the stock electric fan is a pusher, not a puller. As beakie said, the stock electric fan comes on at higher temps and I consider it a back-up fan. Before I replaced my rad, in the summer when my electric fan would turn on I would then turn on the heat to help cool the engine. Once the engine gets hot, its a lot harder to cool. I have since installed a rad with brass tanks that keeps the engine very cool - also, the core is the same size as the tanks, so 3 or 4 core.
    I'll post pics of the wiring diagrams for each temp switch option. This morning my Jeep didn't make it down the street. I had to take my Daytona out of storage to get around. I guess I got some aluminum shavings in my alternator and its no longer charging. The alternator might still be under warranty, but I think I'm going to upgrade from the stock 90A to the larger 136A Grand Cherokee alternator.

  7. #7
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    Is the grand Cherokee alt a direct swap?


    Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    The 1997-1998 Grand Cherokee alternator is physically larger. both the 4.0I6 and 5.2V8 use the same alternator, even though the 4.0 is said to be 120A and the 5.2 is 136A. I think the difference is the minimum the vehicle requires. You need to modify the aluminum and metal brackets and the timing cover to make it fit a stock xj. When I source the alternator I might check the other brackets I have as I think they will move the alternator higher and may not need modification. I think my battery is toast, which may have killed my alternator. I'm in the process of swapping batteries.

  9. #9
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    Where did you get your brass rad? I need to replace my comanche rad and would like to upgrade too. The replacement rads I have seen are aluminum with plastic tanks and I don't think there as tough as the old brass rads.

  10. #10
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    I got my rad from a kijiji ad, I'm pretty sure it's an aftermarket performance rad.. I think older xj's had a better rad with brass tanks, but that might be hard to find in good condition.

    I picked up the larger alternator today. The rebuilt alternator I got last year quit a week after the 1yr warranty expired.
    In this picture you can see where I trimmed the edge of the bracket to clear the belt. You will also see a rough outline of where in needs more trimming to clear the larger alternator.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by big_ang; 03-19-2014 at 02:12 PM. Reason: add more info

  11. #11
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    On my '91 I just removed the mechanical fan, and left the stock pulley on. I double nutter the studs out, and put bolts in there for the extra .5" of clearance.
    I used an 11" flex o lite fan, and the probe controller with a bypass off switch to the cab for water crossing.

    I had the stock e fan to the right of it. This fan comes on late/at higher temps. It also can be turned on by switching on the a/c, or defrost if you need it to cool earlier the then the stock switch allowed.

    I had a winch in front of the rad, and recessed into the grill so that didn't help air flow. Also my rad was not in the best of shape.

    The only time it would kinda get hot is on warm summer days cruising hwy at 120+. I remember just having to slow to 100 and it would settle down. I was pushing 33's on stock 3:55 gears with an auto though.

    That BMW switch would be the better way. I have been looking for something like that. Thanks!
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  12. #12
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    Update: I haven't driven the jeep much since I lost my job recently, but the last fill up I got about 40km more.
    I haven't installed the temp switch yet because, being from a BMW, it's 14Mx1.5 and I don't have that size tap. I'm manually turning the electric fan on and off with a switch in the cab.
    I feel like the Dodge Dakota electric fan, without being installed in the stock mechanical fan shroud, is not moving enough air to really cool the engine - although it's not hot enough outside and I can't get the engine temp high enough for me to know for sure.
    Seeing as Performance Improvements is having a 2 day sale, I picked up a 16" electric flex-a-lite fan today that moves about 2,200cfm for $75. I'm going to install this new fan into the stock shroud. The fan blades are 15" from end to end and should fit the shroud perfectly, I just have to make a bracket.

    I'm currently using the larger zj alternator and bracket that moves the alternator higher. I had to trim the bracket and the battery tray, and move the battery tray.
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  13. #13
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    Not sure if you were aware of this but stock alt on late model XJs cranks out 124A, no mods required.

    Also I think the clutch fan pulls about 5800 CFM at full tilt, keep this in mind as 2200 CFM is not going to be enough if warmer weather ever actually arrives.I believe the later style electric fan on 99+ XJs with the swooping-style fins pulls the same or higher. All the factory aux electric fans is definitely a "puller".

    One thing I've always thought that would be beneficial with an electric setup: Change things around so that the driver's side fan is the one that's always on. The clutch fan has always been on the right because the water pump has basically been on the left since 1964... Which really sucks because the exhaust manifold and power steering on XJs is on the left, which is a LOT of heat that builds up in a stock XJ until the e-fan comes on. It would be huuuge to keep all that heat off of the intake, so if you're going to have that option, definitely give that a spin!
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  14. #14
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    The stock XJ alternator probably maxes out at 124A, and I believe the larger alt maxes out around 145-160A.

    I doubt the mechanical fan is rated at 5,800cfm, the only numbers I could find were in the 2,200cfm range.

    I highly doubt the electric fan is rated at 5,800cfm. If it were, I'm sure the hot rod crowd would be all over it. Again, the only numbers I could find were in the 1,100cfm range and it was noted that the the later style electric fan with the swooping-style fins were quieter at the expense of less cfm.

    The new fan that I installed seems to be working great. I wasn't able to install it into the stock shroud. The lower mounting bracket I made also blocks the lower portion of the fan (like the stock shroud) in the hopes that it will channel more air through the rad.

    I borrowed a M14 x 1.5 tap for the temp switch, but I haven't wired it yet. The fitting broke while I installed it, so I have to tap another fitting because the broken one has a slight leak.

    As for how to wire it, I'm on the fence about making it fully automatic (no switch in the cab) or using a 3-way switch in the cab with the options of "On-Off-Auto".

    I'll post another update soon. Here's some pics:

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  15. #15
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    Looks good!

  16. #16
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    This is how I have it wired currently and everything works great:
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  17. #17
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    After using this setup for a while, I don't believe the serp belt is making enough contact with the alternator. The belt is really tight and a couple of times the belt slipped at the alternator (nothing major, but I noticed it). I added a pulley to try to get more contact, but in the near future I will be changing the serp belt again to run the stock Grand Cherokee belt setup.
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    I installed the switch near my left knee, which in hind sight was a bad decision.
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    Otherwise I'm really happy and wouldn't hesitate to make this simple mod again. The gas savings alone make it worth it. I also don't miss the very loud mechanical fan.

  18. #18
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    hurts the knee when you climb in ...i use to hit my roof lights all the time too
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  19. #19
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    Cool

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