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Thread: Re-Wiring HID Kit / Fixing auto function

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    Re-Wiring HID Kit / Fixing auto function

    Howdy all.. annoying scientist again, this time with a non-trolling (Jeep Renegade post...) post. Two questions, which I'll format for easier reading. My heep is a 2012 JK Rubi 2-door.

    First issue:

    I bought an HID kit from the Auto show this year - and delayed putting it in until roughly mid-May, give or take. The "Auto" function which turns lights on and off based on ambient light doesn't work, and the kit doesn't turn on at all when I set it to "headlamps on" mode. When I have it set to "parking lights" the headlamps are on and all is good. Also, when the headlamps are "daytime runners only" it's also on full (no difference between parking lights and daytime runners only modes). While this is fine for me, I'd really like to see my auto functionality return. I disconnected the kit and reinstalled the old lamps into the fixtures over this past weekend and the auto function works fine, so we can eliminate something busted or electrical from the Jeep not working. Since the Jeep is controlling when to turn on the kit, why does it work with the stock lamps, and not the HID kit?

    Note: This is not the flicker / CANbus problem - the HID kit works fine in daytime/parking mode.

    ----------

    Second issue / cry for help:

    The wiring the kit came with is too short (story of my life). A friend of mine works for a cable supply company (industrial / construction depo), so I can get cables designed to withstand the heat of the engine bay and amperage/voltage required for the kit. Can I just snip the wires where they leave the modules like the ballasts, solder and waterproof the points where I cut, and reinstall without issue?

    The ballasts the kit came with leaves 6" of wire to the lamp, which means I can't mount them anywhere safe, and currently they're sitting just behind the headlamp fixture, unprotected from road hazards and water. I noticed them dangling there the other day when I took my heep to the self-wash.

    ----------


    Thanks for the help all.
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    Good luck with HID's on a late model Chrysler vehicle. All I hear continuously is that they end up being nothing but problems. They are temperamental, unreliable and most kits seem to be cheaply made - the market is flooded with them. And most scatter light horribly in the stock housings.

    Between the ground switching, CANBUS and other TPIM controls for lights, it seems to be a nightmare. It sounds like you are getting a taste of that. I'd recommend you walk away from them now. It is unlikely that you will have any prolonged good luck with them no matter what you do.

    Truck-Lites are slowly coming down in price and well worth it for their reliable, trouble-free very high performance.

    Good luck.
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    i am in talks with my truck lite rep about a group buy. i should have something up in a week or two....
    a learning experience is one of those things that says, you know that thing you just did...don't do that again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cheezballz View Post
    i am in talks with my truck lite rep about a group buy...

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    wow!

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    Buddy of mine put truck lites into his 2010 jk, they flickered even on low beam until he used a procal to move the drls to the fog lights. Just factor that in as a possible cost.
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    You can get the anti flicker caps with the correct connectors to go inline on lights on a JK. They are cheap and common for running LED headlights on a JK.

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    I have read many articles about using them in JK's you will need this adapter PN 96630 ($8.00 each)
    But every now and then some will get a flicking motion, if you get the little flicker PN96830 will solve this
    JP mag has a write up on them a few months back (online for more in depth) http://oak.ctx.ly/r/vlgt
    these parts can be ordered from traction in Hamilton or look on line
    Last edited by cheezy; 09-20-2014 at 12:24 AM.

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    oops
    Last edited by cheezy; 09-20-2014 at 12:23 AM. Reason: double post

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    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    You can get the anti flicker caps with the correct connectors to go inline on lights on a JK. They are cheap and common for running LED headlights on a JK.
    Quote Originally Posted by Drizit View Post
    Buddy of mine put truck lites into his 2010 jk, they flickered even on low beam until he used a procal to move the drls to the fog lights. Just factor that in as a possible cost.
    Quote Originally Posted by cheezballz View Post
    I have read many articles about using them in JK's you will need this adapter PN 96630 ($8.00 each)
    But every now and then some will get a flicking motion, if you get the little flicker PN96830 will solve this
    JP mag has a write up on them a few months back (online for more in depth) http://oak.ctx.ly/r/vlgt
    these parts can be ordered from traction in Hamilton or look on line
    Drizit is right. We have tried many things including the above modules until we started messing with the DRL. Unfortunately the states don't have DRL's so they never run into the issue with the flickering caused by the DRL's being turned on in the CANBUS. The Procal when run with the anti-flickring harness 100% eliminates any flicking in a Canadian Jeep JK when running LED's.
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    But is this anti-flicker?

    I don't get flickering now - or is my idea of "flicker" not the definition here.. where it turns off and on quickly like a connector is loose..

    I just want my daylight sensors to work so I don't forget to turn off/on my lights sometimes :P

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiltron View Post
    But is this anti-flicker?

    I don't get flickering now - or is my idea of "flicker" not the definition here.. where it turns off and on quickly like a connector is loose..

    I just want my daylight sensors to work so I don't forget to turn off/on my lights sometimes :P
    The flicker issues discussed here were related to LED headlights - not HID.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RBJeepThing View Post
    Drizit is right. We have tried many things including the above modules until we started messing with the DRL. Unfortunately the states don't have DRL's so they never run into the issue with the flickering caused by the DRL's being turned on in the CANBUS. The Procal when run with the anti-flickring harness 100% eliminates any flicking in a Canadian Jeep JK when running LED's.
    The common flicker issue I have seen was not related to the DRL's as the LED's seem to flicker on vehicles with Pulse Width Modulation headlights whether they were on low beam or high beam at full power. The filter caps are just inline capacitors to filter out most of the pulsing to the point where it is no longer visible with LED headlights.

    The reduced voltage of the DRL's is below the minimum voltage spec for the LED headlights which is another issue altogether and unlikely to be solved by just installing capacitors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    The common flicker issue I have seen was not related to the DRL's as the LED's seem to flicker on vehicles with Pulse Width Modulation headlights whether they were on low beam or high beam at full power. The filter caps are just inline capacitors to filter out most of the pulsing to the point where it is no longer visible with LED headlights.

    The reduced voltage of the DRL's is below the minimum voltage spec for the LED headlights which is another issue altogether and unlikely to be solved by just installing capacitors.
    I don't understand why a PWM signal would be used on low/high beam for anything other than DRLs? PWM is used as a cheap method to step voltage to the bulbs and reduce brightness.
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    Quote Originally Posted by EngineerJoe View Post
    I don't understand why a PWM signal would be used on low/high beam for anything other than DRLs? PWM is used as a cheap method to step voltage to the bulbs and reduce brightness.
    Me neither. Besides DRL's, it would seem most of these PWM headlights only ever run at 12 - 12.6V max. Why would there be a need to reduce the voltage from the typical 14.5V charge voltage?

    I here this often is a reason people by the harness to bypass the OEM headlight circuit to get full voltage to the headlights. This is really only important for Halogen lights and pretty much meaningless for LED's.

    I can't say as I keep up with all of this crap as some of it makes little sense to me.

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    On the jk apparently when the computer sees a bulb out it flickers the power for some reason. An led head light or a relay harness show up to the car as a bulb out. However for some reason when you use the procal to move the drls to the fogs it stops flickering the head lights. Again, no idea why unless it starts looking at the resistance of the fogs or something. I don't know that the issue is PWM related though as my truck lites don't flicker on drl mode in the LJ, and my understanding is that it uses PWM for the drls

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    I don't know the science behind it I just know that the harness and the Procal completely eliminates all issues. The harness itself eliminated the issue in about 50% of the JK's.

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    LED's flickering on a JK not equipped with DRL's. The flickering occurs with high and low beams.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/usmcdoc/lights/

    The JK is clearly using a PWM signal on the high and low beams regardless of whether there are DRL's or not.

    If I were to guess, a TJ only uses a PWM signal with the DRL's and full power is sent to the lights with the high and low beams - hence the separate DRL module on a TJ.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    If I were to guess, a TJ only uses a PWM signal with the DRL's and full power is sent to the lights with the high and low beams - hence the separate DRL module on a TJ.
    I'm assuming the same. I'm tempted to grab an oscilloscope and start measuring all these signals.

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    Re: Re-Wiring HID Kit / Fixing auto function

    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    LED's flickering on a JK not equipped with DRL's. The flickering occurs with high and low beams.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/usmcdoc/lights/

    The JK is clearly using a PWM signal on the high and low beams regardless of whether there are DRL's or not.

    If I were to guess, a TJ only uses a PWM signal with the DRL's and full power is sent to the lights with the high and low beams - hence the separate DRL module on a TJ.
    Don't know, just telling you what I have witnessed first hand on 2 2010 jks. One has truck lites one had halogens on a relay harness. Before procal the LEDs flickered on drl, low and high after procal drl is now on fogs, no flicker on low and high. On the halogen one, before procal, flicker and relay chatter on drl low and high, after procal no chatter or flicker.

    LJ with tuck lites no flicker on drl, low or high.

    Also I had a superchips programmer hooked up to my jk once, the code reader showed the low and high beam out on the side that didn't have the relay harness plugged into the trucks wireing. The other side was fine according to the computer.
    Quote Originally Posted by EngineerJoe View Post
    I'm assuming the same. I'm tempted to grab an oscilloscope and start measuring all these signals.
    Do it... Well set some minds at ease.

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