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Thread: Ideas for Rad/Gas tank in back?

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    Ideas for Rad/Gas tank in back?

    I am planning on removing the complete back floor of my jeep and moving my gas tank up about 10-12 inches and also relocating the radiator into the back. I haven't decided if I should mount the rad high on my sport bars or remove my back door (or even back window) and mount it just inside. I am already running an electric fan. I have done tones of reading/google searches. I will also be relocating the battery in the back as well.
    I dont see any problems with rewelding the floor over the new location of the gas tank. For the rad I'm not sure the best way to get air to cool it. I have thought that I could have it pull air from under the old YJ or if I could just remove all the windows from my hard top and funnel all the air through the rad.

    Any comments, suggestions or questions are welcomed.

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    Stickybongsmoking is offline Yes, this is gawd damn muthafockling CTD NUT.
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    I'd only question what you hope to benefit from putting the rad in the back of your Jeep? I see a lot of downsides without any tangible benefits.

    Kiss your hard top good bye. You will not be able to run a rad in the passenger compartment with a top. It is neither feasible or desirable.

    A high mounted rear rad can be helpful for a bog buggy that spends most of its time nuts deep in bottomless quagmires...other than that, not so much.
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    That is the goal, to get it up and out of the way for mud holes. I want to get a little closer to a buggy. This is not a Jeep that sees many road miles and sits outside or in a garage most of the time, I don't mind if I don't use my hard top or if I have to modify it.
    The only other time I tend to take the Jeep out is on the frozen lake in the winter which is why I need to cut the floor out anyways as I constantly get held up on the gas tank.
    I do appreciate your comment, and even agree that the benefits are minimal but I do want it up out of the way.

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    If you're just looking to get it out of the way for mud holes, you may be better off keeping the location, but finding a shallower/wider/thicker rad. Your goal is doable, but there is a lot of work involved.

    Edit: Thought I would add more.

    Above all else, I see three problems with running a remote setup....

    1. Rad cap location. This will have to be the highest point in the system. Any localized high points will create air pockets that can become a bitch to purge
    2. Upper rad hose location. With the thermostat closed, this will be a bitch to bleed through (depends on the rad setup, I'll take a look at my Jeep tonight)
    3. Lower rad hose. Too long and too restrictive, and you could potentially cavitate the water pump.
    Last edited by Engineer Joe; 10-14-2014 at 05:46 PM.
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    I am hoping to get over to the Jeep tomorrow to get an actual routing plan and have also read about drilling a 1/8 hole in the thermostat to help bleed the system while the thermostat is closed. I would guess that I would need a spot at the front to bleed and also at the rad.
    I'm not sure what you mean by cavitate the pump. :l

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    From Wikipedia

    Quote Originally Posted by Cavitation - Wikipedia
    Hydrodynamic Cavitation
    Hydrodynamic cavitation describes the process of vaporisation, bubble generation and bubble implosion which occurs in a flowing liquid as a result of a decrease and subsequent increase in pressure. Cavitation will only occur if the pressure declines to some point below the saturated vapor pressure of the liquid and subsequent recovery above the vapor pressure.

    ...

    When uncontrolled, cavitation is damaging
    If you cavitate the water pump, you reduce/lose coolant flow.

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    Thanks for the info, was a very interesting read for me. The way I understand it is that it is more of a problem with a diesel engine. It does make me wonder after reading some articles if in fact I should be pulling out my water pump as mine might be worn out. Guess that's the fun of rebuilding a Jeep again, the joys of replacing ok yj parts. Lol

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    Also not a big fan of the rad in the back. As far as gas tank this is what i did for a rear stretch. Cut a hole, weld in old stock gas tank skid and box it up.









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    Quote Originally Posted by scys View Post
    The way I understand it is that it is more of a problem with a diesel engine.
    What Joe posted is not related to diesel engines. He was addressing pump cavitation...which can occur on just about any type of pump. Though, in regards to an automotive water pump, it is less of a factor that can result in any type of damage since this type of pump is a non-positive displacement pump. They are, however, very inefficient. And since there are pretty much no options for pump changes or mods on a 4.2, you have to be careful in how you plumb a rear mounted rad.

    To keep things simple, you will need a means of bleeding air at whatever the highest point in the cooling system ends up being.

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    I am reconsidering the moving of the rad. I figured it would be just a matter of running 2" copper pipes, which I have lots of room for and cutting out the floor. Thanks for the info about cavitation, I really want to understand all the pros(very little) and the cons which apparently I was just unaware of this one.
    Curt, that is a good idea to have the old skid used to hold and locate the tank. Is the filler for the tank still on the outside of the Jeep? Do you have any problems when you fill the tank with the pumps shutting of early?

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    Ya, it just moves the filler the filler to the passenger side behind the door. A lot of times I have to hold the pump upside down and the auto shutoff doesn't work so no, no problem shutting off early

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    ask some of the guys at gopher dunes who moved the rad to the back and ended up cooking the motor cause of lack of air flow..
    need a lot of air to cool these down... think about it ... bubb

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    You guys have basically convinced me that it would be worse to deal with the after math of moving the rad. It would be nice to get the rad out of the front but looks like it will stay in the front.
    The gas tank is getting raised, at least that will give me more departure angle.
    Cy

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