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Thread: Project buggy revive

  1. #101
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    I had some issues on hotter days with fuel vapor lock many years ago. Put high volume low pressure pump (lift pump) feeding high pressure pump & it runs cooler now. Im running very high pressure at the rail +90psi.
    Last edited by ditchpig; 06-17-2015 at 04:30 PM.
    Half the fire wall/part of the hood & front grill its all CJ

  2. #102
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    clarify what you said.
    on the pic above I see two pumps? what are you running for engine?
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  3. #103
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    Cheyne what is swirl type sump pump?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    I missed this post earlier.

    I'm using a Walbro 392. It is the OEM manufacturer of most of the common domestic in tank / in line pumps. Like the e2000, etc. The 392 is the common/generic 255 LPH pump.

    And yes, it is feeding a MPFI 454. I have been using the one way swirl type pump sump with a 392 for 17 years (yikes) now.
    Yeah, I picked up the 392 for myself as well. Curious to hear more about the sump setup.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    clarify what you said.
    on the pic above I see two pumps? what are you running for engine?
    You run both pumps in series, like the F150's used to (IIRC), although I thought it was normally a high volume, low pressure at the tank and keep the high pressure pump closer to the engine. The basic idea is you have low vacuum at the tank (low pressure pump) to avoid boiling, and by having a feed/head pressure to the HP pump later in the system, you raise the boiling point and prevent vapour lock, as well as ensuring there is no air bubbles/cavitation in the HP pump, giving it a longer service life.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kunker View Post
    Yeah, I picked up the 392 for myself as well. Curious to hear more about the sump setup.
    I don't have any pics of mine but is a common design that has been around a long time in various motorsports. The pump (or pick up) sits in the center of the swirl sump.

    Mine looks pretty much like this:



    Fuel can get in very quickly as it sloshes around in a tank low on fuel but it is nearly impossible for it to drain out of the sump. While I know it is not the be all end all, it works surprisingly well. It is amazing when a swirl effect starts, how quickly the sump will fill. And then when put on much of an angle, it is virtually impossible to have fuel drain out of it. Simple and very effective.
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  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kunker View Post
    You run both pumps in series, like the F150's used to (IIRC), although I thought it was normally a high volume, low pressure at the tank and keep the high pressure pump closer to the engine. The basic idea is you have low vacuum at the tank (low pressure pump) to avoid boiling, and by having a feed/head pressure to the HP pump later in the system, you raise the boiling point and prevent vapour lock, as well as ensuring there is no air bubbles/cavitation in the HP pump, giving it a longer service life.
    All of that complexity can be solved instantly with a single in-tank pump.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kunker View Post
    You run both pumps in series, like the F150's used to (IIRC), although I thought it was normally a high volume, low pressure at the tank and keep the high pressure pump closer to the engine. The basic idea is you have low vacuum at the tank (low pressure pump) to avoid boiling, and by having a feed/head pressure to the HP pump later in the system, you raise the boiling point and prevent vapour lock, as well as ensuring there is no air bubbles/cavitation in the HP pump, giving it a longer service life.
    Yes you are correct sir. Its for a 4l stroker. Pumps are cheap when on sale, ~ 5 minutes to change out but have never had to & don't need submerged liquid cooling.
    Last edited by ditchpig; 06-18-2015 at 05:30 PM.

  9. #109
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    My fuel pump died good thing it was on my driveway two weeks ago. I decided to re plumb my fuel lines and put in shut off valve just below my fuel cell. It was a pain to empty the fuel cell when servicing. I removed the foam because it was already breaking down( I know you someone here told me so), it was merely just 2 months old. I moved the fuel pump closer to the cell. I also moved my fuel lines away from my headers. I used F.I. clamps, combination of AN fittings barbed fittings and quick disconnect. It was a BIG pain sliding the fittings into 3/8 ID Russell hose. Softening the hose with Boiling hot water was the TICKET.

    Mock UP, no pics of finished lines.

    [IMG] photo 20150626_112554_zpsodqvtf6o.jpg[/IMG]

  10. #110
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    Washers to weigh down the walbro pick ups.

    [IMG] photo 20150628_151509_zpso0iqbv4n.jpg[/IMG]

  11. #111
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    Put it all together. Tried to start but no GO. I had no power going to my pump. Few days of poking around looking for loose wires, relays, fuse with no luck. My problem ended up a fray fuel pump wire which cause a short and cooked the fuel pump driver on my PCM.
    A buddy told me to see Jason , he tunes and makes wire harnesses for LS motors. His shop is called Cain's Auto in Straffordville (519 866 3454)near Port Burwell Ont. He has an ADD on Kijiji as well.

  12. #112
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    Just got to meet priority and see his awesome rig in person! Glad to see it up and running!

  13. #113
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    Nice meeting you as well. I love your LOCOMOTIVE horn.....................

  14. #114
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    UPDATE on the Buggy.

    Amazingly worked well. I was able to get out a few a times, My highlights was going to CAMP NL with my oldest daughter Sam. She had a blast driving the buggy.

    This is how the BUGGY sits.








  15. #115
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    It was great having you and Sam out on the trails with us at NL, glad you guys enjoyed it! Buggy worked great!
    The OG HOISTWAGON
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  16. #116
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    The PLAN this WINTER:

    - Additional skin to cover the engine bay and maybe small flat fender.

    - Skin the rear quarter.

    - Replaced the YJ grill with CJ grill from the 50's ERA.

    - Paint body....desert tan.

    - Build a new dash and rewire my gauges.

    - DO swap to an auto. Maybe Turbo 400. I'm researching it right now. Good and BAD of TH 400?. I want to keep my twin stick 205.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberlake View Post
    It was great having you and Sam out on the trails with us at NL, glad you guys enjoyed it! Buggy worked great!

    FUN time it was and thank you, for being awesome GUIDE

  18. #118
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    Timber 3


  19. #119
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    Kole and I were happy to guide the groups we had! Oh and I am likely going the same route as you with my fuel cell. Going to ditch the foam and put a walbro in each corner.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    - Replaced the YJ grill with CJ grill from the 50's ERA.
    Something to consider - you can just cut a grill to replicate the look of a Jeep grill out of a sheet of aluminum. It is simple and cheap and you can make it conform to the exact dimensions you require and work around drill hoops, etc. That is what I did. I used .125" 6061 sheet. It took a little time to get everything cut out and cleaned up but it fit my requirements much better than anything OEM and looks good, IMO.


    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    - DO swap to an auto. Maybe Turbo 400. I'm researching it right now. Good and BAD of TH 400?. I want to keep my twin stick 205.
    If you are running big power, a TH400 makes sense. Other than that, it has nothing but downsides when compared to a TH350 for swap purposes. The 400 is a bigger, sucks back a fair bit more power, has a gas pedal switch that is a PITA on some swaps. It also typically runs hotter in off road apps.

    As for keeping the 205, it is easily done with OEM parts for both transmissions. I'm not sure which version you have but if it is a OEM manual 205, it probably has a long male input and adapter which will not work with any auto. You will probably be farther ahead to get a TH350 or 400 version 205 instead of obtaining the adapter and input and bearing, etc and swap into your existing case.

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