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Thread: Project buggy revive

  1. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ilovemyjeep View Post
    Graeme made it up no prob! I was there, great times! I don't have vids but lots of great climbs that weekend!
    KOOL..............how big is his rig? Got any pics and what is his username here in JK?
    92 RENEGADE

    ECNALUBMA NA SI PEEJ REHTHO YM

    82 Toyota long bed

  2. #182
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    Old School BEAUTIES:

    #1 B&M Pro stick

    #2 B&M non rachet

    #3 Camaro




    [IMG] photo 20160116_101913_zpsyyao34lt.jpg[/IMG]


    [IMG] photo 20160116_101422_zpsolj5k572.jpg[/IMG]


    [IMG] photo 20160116_101338_zpsl8lq35ag.jpg[/IMG]

  3. #183
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    I'm going to run the Pro Stick because there shift gates are rebuild able and can easily modified.


    SHIFT GATES

    [IMG] photo 20160116_095312_zpshscxpj92.jpg[/IMG]

  4. #184
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    NON RACHET B&M


    [IMG] photo 20160116_095121_zps0focb8ie.jpg[/IMG]


    [IMG] photo 20160116_095111_zpse4tfappe.jpg[/IMG]

  5. #185
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    COVER is not the correct one. I'm going to modify it or maybe buy new.

    [IMG] photo 20160116_101422_zpsolj5k572.jpg[/IMG]







    I'm going to copy what Bill Ansell(BillaVista/ Pirate 4X4) did with his Pro stick shifter.

    1. Disable reverse lock out.

    2. Modify the shift gate so I can easily go from DRIVE to REVERSE

    3. Install and GO WHEELIN.






    [IMG] First. [/IMG]


    Modifying the Shifter

    Disabling the Reverse Lockout


    The first order of business is to disable the reverse lockout feature. There are several ways to accomplish this. You could disassemble the shifter and flatten or grind off the tab. You could also cut the end off the reverse lockout lever so that it doesn't engage the tab.

    However, I wanted a modification that would work, be reliable, but be completely reversible.

    As such, I chose to hold the reverse lockout lever forward into the "disengaged" position, and then drilled a hole through its mounting plate and inserted a dowel pin to hold it permanently in this position.



    Here you can see the lever in the disengaged position, the back end of the lever clear of the tab, and the dowel pin holding it in this position.

    The pin engages the small tab on the reverse lockout lever into which the detent spring inserts. This way the lever can;t rotate back into position to engage the tab and prevent shifting into reverse.





    Because the detent spring attaches to the tab on the lockout lever, when you push the lockout lever forward (or indeed if you permanently hold the lever in the forward position as I have here) you stretch the detent spring a little, slightly increasing the pressure holding the shift detent lever against the detents.

    This can be a helpful secondary consequence of this modification, particularly if you plan on cutting out the gates between the shift positions - it will make the shifts a little stiffer and more positive between gears, helping prevent over-shifting or accidental bumping of the lever out of gear.



    Front view of the installed pin.

    Now, if I ever wanted to use the shifter with the reverse lockout function intact, either in the current vehicle or a different car, I would only have to remove the pin.


    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...s/IMG_3867.JPG
    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...s/IMG_3874.JPG

  6. #186
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    I'm going to run this PATTERN.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...R-3rd-stop.jpg

    To eliminate the first disadvantage I once again added a small gate at D to catch the trigger pin when coming back into gear, but it doesn't interfere with forward slam into N or R.

    Once again, when coming back into gear from P,R or N you can easily positively hit any of the forward gears as follows:
    •For D - just pull straight back and the pin will catch the D gate.
    •For 2 - pull and hold the trigger, the pin will ride the bottom of the cutout and catch the 2 gate on the bottom, then release the trigger.
    •For 1 - half-pull the trigger so the pin clears the D gate as you come back but isn't low enough to catch the 2 gate. Pull straight back into 1 and release the rigger.




    I'm going to make this as well.


    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...N-3rd-stop.jpg

    The first disadvantage is corrected with this re-design.

    Note the small notch at D. This is enough to catch the trigger pin when coming back into gear, but doesn't interfere with forward slam into R.

    Now, when coming back into gear from P,R or N you can easily positively hit any of the forward gears as follows:
    •For D - just pull straight back and the pin will catch the D gate.
    •For 2 - pull and hold the trigger, the pin will ride the bottom of the cutout and catch the 2 gate on the bottom, then release the trigger.
    •For 1 - half-pull the trigger so the pin clears the D gate as you come back but isn't low enough to catch the 2 gate. Pull straight back into 1 and release the rigger.

    If you recall my OMI philosophy that "if you have to look, you've buggered it up" then you will understand why I particularly like this 3rd gear notch gate - I can feel and hit every gear consistently, going forwards or backwards, without ever having to look.

  7. #187
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    Anyone here familiar with #2 B&M?

    It feels like problematic finding gears. The spring arm that rides on the slits on the base of the unit feels like it's too soft or perhaps worn out.

  8. #188
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    I like #3. Lol
    97 TJ - The Build
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    11 SRT Challenger with some stuff
    05 Duramax

  9. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by curt's_97 View Post
    i like #3. Lol

    got a shifter yet?

  10. #190
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    What's everyone running for TRANNY COOLER? Anything fancy with electric fan?

  11. #191
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    Stickybongsmoking is offline Yes, this is gawd damn muthafockling CTD NUT.
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    I run a B&M 11" x 11" x 1.5" cooler with a 10" fan.

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bmm-70274
    A Member of:
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    "Simple, yet functional....like a Sledgehammer"

  12. #192
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    Where did you mount your cooler.
    are you running any cooler for your TC?

  13. #193
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    Stickybongsmoking is offline Yes, this is gawd damn muthafockling CTD NUT.
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    I'm not sure what TC is but the trans and hydro coolers are mounted on either side behind the front fenders on my vessel.


  14. #194
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    That's great Cheyne. I like where you mounted your COOLERS.

    TC= TRANSFER CASE lol

  15. #195
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    Stickybongsmoking is offline Yes, this is gawd damn muthafockling CTD NUT.
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    I have not heard of anyone running a transfer case cooler so I didn't connect the dots.

  16. #196
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    The 70-72 monte carlo, chevelle shifters are great.
    Heavy duty long cable works mint.

  17. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4wheeler View Post
    The 70-72 monte carlo, chevelle shifters are great.
    Heavy duty long cable works mint.


    Is this what you are running? Got pics?

    Define how long is LONG?

  18. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    Is this what you are running? Got pics?

    Define how long is LONG?
    Pretty sure its the same horseshoe style i posted above

  19. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRIORITY 4 View Post
    That's great Cheyne. I like where you mounted your COOLERS.

    TC= TRANSFER CASE lol
    TCase coolers aren't that common, and I think Atlas even suggested that it shouldn't be use when the U4 guys tried. It's be a long time, though - likely it's buried in Dave Cole's IFS build thread IIRC.

    I run the Derale one on my trans, no complaints:

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...3950/overview/

  20. #200
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    Hey Kunker where did you mount your cooler?

    Are you guys running tranny temp gauge?

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