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Thread: ORI Struts

  1. #1
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    ORI Struts

    How many guys locally are running ORI's? curious if it is worth starting a ORI tuning thread locally for what we actually drive on normally to our conditions...
    2012 JKU Sahara, SD HP60 Front, GM 14 Bolt shaved rear, 5.38s, locked/Spooled, 4 link front 3 link rear, Oris, TR Double Beadlocks, 42" tsl sx2, PSC Full Hydro, D3 bumpers, D3 skids, D3 Rock Rails, D3 Cage, and lots more...
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    Been on ST's for 4 plus years

    #cloudoftitties

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    whats your setup?

    Front length
    Front lower pressure
    Front Upper pressure

    Rear Length
    Rear lower pressure
    Rear Upper pressure

    Vehicle sprung weight
    Unsprung weight
    wheel base


    Ive been on mine for two weeks now and currently cant stand them so going to start digging into them and tuning them no cloud of titties yet for me!

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    I'll have to find my notes, I flip between 3 settings a lot of years. Didn't change them last winter though, to much time on the sled and everything blew in pretty deep for the Jeeps

    Lower pressures I've played with between 80 and 130 ish PSI. Fronts end up with 5 ish more PSI in the bottom chamber then the rear

    Uppers typically just get filled to the desired ride height, 225 to as High as 350 I think I've been

    14 inch ST's all around

    Vehicle weights, I have no idea. TJ with lots of extra weight, 609/914, 42 inch PBR's,

    WB 107 or 108

    Snow setup is soft and higher than the normal 7 and 7, 9 up travel, 5 down travel or close to it. Not Ideal for everyday use, Love it for snow. 80 ish lower pressure

    Spring/fall fairly soft and lower ride height than snow, 6 up and 8 down ish. Higher than snow setups lower pressure. Love how it sits like this but need more up travel typically come summer

    Summer when it sees road and track use its very close to 7/7. It is the highest of the pressure's I run for the lower chamber, and of course the upper, 125 ballpark I think. Its stiffer and out of round Rubber or odd things in the road it will pick up on. It prefers to be driven harder like this.

    The setup I have in it now, I could leave all year. Little rougher in spots on and off road, soaks up big hits at speed, Body rolls but is fine once your used to it. The tuning really depends what your doing with it, I don' think there are magic numbers. They did release a calculator again on the site I read in the Pbb tuning thread, but I haven't looked at it

    I do not run a sway bar,

    Now where did I put that green book with tuning notes......

    pics of the little changes that they are, but the truck acts way different
    summer


    winter

    spring fall


    The truck is fairly low, front and rear frame's were chopped. The Black rubi here is on a 4.5 inch RE lift on 35 Truxxus, and the red headed step child behind is some 4 inch lift on 35 cut swampers for comparison

    Last edited by Reverage; 06-25-2015 at 03:28 PM.

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    sweet ride!

    My numbers are similar and I am not ok with that setup it is to stiff on the road for potholes and I wont settle for that so I am going to dig into them mine are STX struts so there velocity sensitive valving not stroke sensitive like the old ST ones so we are not comparing apples to apples but they are similar!

    Im ordering resivoirs for them to help with air volume issues for road manners and then I will play with compression valving

    I am pretty excited to really learn about them because I have extensive coilover knowledge when it comes to valve shim stacks and for pregressive and digressive with hydro bumps and such but when it comes to the ori its a whole new animal because of the style of valving used it should be fun I will just keep this thread going maybe with notes instead of making a notebook that way any other locals who want to get the best out of their suspension can take something from my notes and apply it to their testing!

    this should be fun! now to get testing time allocated haha

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    Thanks

    Who are you getting the resi's from? My last quote was "Remote Reservoirs are $95 ea. STX Conversion Kits are $95 ea. plus shipping" From Filthy Motorsports.

    ORI Direct was "To have the STX upgrade and to add the piggy back reservoirs to your 4 STX struts it would be $1,098.00. " installed including fluids

    I toyed with Resi's last fall and just never pulled the trigger as I was considering sending the 4 of them out to be converted to STX's. I gotta ride on STX's some day and feel the difference. I had/have no knowledge of coil over tuning, valving or any of that fun stuff.

    I just started playing with these and learn something most times I vent and make changes, Someday I'll learn to tear em apart and freshen them up myself
    Last edited by Reverage; 06-25-2015 at 03:39 PM.

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    ORI Struts

    I like tim so I buy from tmr he gives me good prices on my stuff take mine for a rip sometime and see the difference once I'm done tuning lol


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    Tough to beat the guys at TMR

    Now if only they'd drop off that new buggy for me to play with for a weekend
    Last edited by Reverage; 06-25-2015 at 03:52 PM.

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    ORI Struts

    Yeah haha!!! I usually buy demo people who I have a good experience with and they are deff top notch with customer service along with filthy in the states n a few other top dogs


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    I'm running 14" stx struts all the way round on my tj. 120psi in the lower and pressure to ride height on top. Showing about 6" of Chrome. I can't comment on the road manners as its a trailer queen. I've only had it out on two trails this summer, but so far I'm really happy. Super smooth and really predictable (no bouncing/unloading) when crawling.
    http://instagram.com/p/3NQoCOOL3D/
    I'm interested in what you come up with, especially when it comes to improving trail manners.

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    Little update after about a month of me screwing around with these things

    I AM BY NO MEANS AN EXPERT THESE ARE JUST MY OPINIONS AND IDEAS

    here is some info though to get the creative juices flowing doesn't seem like there are many of us around in Ontario with such setups and there is no where to go for tuning help really haha

    What I have come up with for trail manners I shall list in little bullets and we can discuss and expand by everyone else's experiences

    You can increase the lower pressure to control body roll which will in turn require increase upper pressure to get desired ride height - I think we can all agree on this

    The upper pressure means nothing more then to get desired amount of chrome shaft showing at ride height (if you want 5" of chrome showing but the jeep is to low you need to move the mounts)

    ST struts are position sensitive for getting on the oil , STX are velocity sensitive for getting on the oil - therefor you can run less chrome with the soft ride characteristics still

    Properly setup geometry and pressures do NOT require a sway bar, however good pressures and bad suspension geometry may require a sway bar and vice versa... You could be fighting your tuning process with bad roll axis angle, anti squat or squat out of wack and so on... let me put this into a little more perspective! your at a dead stop, you nail the gas and the back end lifts up an inch for example sake.. that force is acting against the strut now same as a coilover would so when your getting it on the trail or road and your hitting bumps the forces from the driveline at acting against the strut not allowing it to compress as easy because the car is not neutral. In some cases you want this type of setup I think but not for a trail riding, highway cruising rig you want the suspension to be plush and allow the strut or shock to do the work and not have the suspension fighting your tuning process. Ever see your buddies jeep hopping while climbing greens or timbers? either the front or back axle? in my opinion that is a bad setup all around 1- it has to much anti squat the axle tries to forces down and jeep lift to get grip then it breaks loose and slams down over and over and it hops. 2 - the strut or coilover valving is off. I know I have seen it many times on many built rigs. you want the tires to stay planted and not bounces under the jeep or have them suck up into the jeep its just math to get it right and once the geometry is good you can tune the suspension to make it even better! I can go more in depth with this theory later on though - maybe some agree or disagree on this subject lets have a debate!?

    When you set lower pressure at full bump that is the lowest it will ever be - as axle drops out the lower pressure increases as nitrogen is compressed, now to really get you thinking this is beneficial at times but not at others, when crawling as your axle droops the strut actually fights against it because as it droops that original 100psi is climbing to keep the strut at ride height at the same time the upper pressure is decreasing significantly! so you are actually loosing down force to the ground with that wheel. Where it benefits you is jumping, the axle wants to slam out and hang in the air but both struts are ramping up the bottom pressure to gradually let it out until full droop so its easier on components.

    The same actions happen during compression with the pressures

    Increasing the rebound damping will cause fade over high speed off-road for long duration

    properly tuned struts will hold position during steep climbs they will not unload or push the rig backwards because the mechanical disadvantage of the climb diminishes the downward forces of your un-sprung weight to overcome the lower chamber pressures



    Biggest thing I see and hear the most is "blowing through the stroke" so up the pressure or spring rate which is completely wrong the pressure/spring rates only job is to support a static load (vehicle parked at ride height)
    You do not increase you upper pressure to avoid blowing through the stroke because your rig is heavy you re-valve the strut and the same goes for a coilover even though for years guys would complain about sag when loaded with gear in the back... but coilovers is a whole new topic that can be saved for later


    Adding the resi to the upper chamber on an ori (model doesn't matter) increase the volume the upper chamber has to compress the set pressure during the stroke of the strut, by adding more volume it decreases the ramp up rate to full bump therefor giving a softer feel

    Valving the ori can be saved for later to once these points have been discussed maybe im off my rocker maybe I am forgetting something chime in so we can all learn as a whole!

  12. #12
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    Some good reading here
    I have to seriously start looking into setting up mine....
    Me subscribed....I'll read more when Im not at work lol
    They call me Monkey cause I'm the silver back of the bunch
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