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  1. #1
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    ZJ Buildup?

    So I'm starting to put the pieces in line. Starting with a 94 ZJ 5.2l, 46RH auto, 242TC, 3.73 D30/D35, 6.5"lift, double triangulated rear.

    New parts, front D44 locked w/5.13 chrommoly shafts, D60 rear locked w/disc brakes, Jeep D300TC, I'm going to make long arms for the front.

    I have two questions.

    Front long arms,
    I see different configuration. The Y, The straight two uppers and two lowers, The three link and The double triangulated. What are the pros and cons of each?
    This is not a DD but I drive on road to the trail 2-3hrs.

    Jeep D300 case to a 46RH trans. I believe I need a clocking ring and a reverse cable setup. Has anyone done this or know of anyone that has that can point me in the right direction.

    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
    94 ZJ, 5.2l
    97 TJ, 4.0l
    77 CJ7, Project Bushwacker
    75 J20, 401cid, Restoration Project
    Plus a parts truck for the ZJ and J20 OMG I have 6 Jeeps plus a DD

    Hi, my names Shawn and I'm a Jeep addict.

  2. #2
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    Don't know about connecting the D300 to the 46RH, but as for flipping it, there are multiple ways to go, in my case I just got the cable shifter kit from NWF (although mine is triple shifter, I started with this), http://www.northwestfab.com/Dana-300...Kit_p_187.html, but others have moved the shift rails to the 'top' of the case, a lot will depend on clearance above/below the case.

    As to the different front link configurations, space is always at a premium, especially in the front. The Y, or usually called a radius arm has good control, but tends to bind up during articulation, but usually packages well and there are less attachments at the frame. Two uppers and 2 lowers is the hardest to package, but gives good control and redundancy, but again will bind up with articulation. 3 link, what I personally run, packages relatively well (one less arm to find room for) and because there's only one upper, and all the links are independent flexes very well. Triangulated works well and flexes well but is usually next to impossible to package in a front (I run a double triangulated in the rear), but it gets rid of the trackbar and keeps the axle centered better under all conditions. The advantage dual trianguated has over single triangulated is being able to bring the mounting point of the lower arms above the bottom of the frame (where they catch a lot of rocks). In both cases the uppers are attached at the frame rails and meet at the middle of the axle to prevent side to side movement and axle rotation.

    Hope that helps some.

  3. #3
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    ZJ Buildup?

    Quote Originally Posted by tealj View Post
    Don't know about connecting the D300 to the 46RH, but as for flipping it, there are multiple ways to go, in my case I just got the cable shifter kit from NWF (although mine is triple shifter, I started with this), http://www.northwestfab.com/Dana-300...Kit_p_187.html, but others have moved the shift rails to the 'top' of the case, a lot will depend on clearance above/below the case.

    As to the different front link configurations, space is always at a premium, especially in the front. The Y, or usually called a radius arm has good control, but tends to bind up during articulation, but usually packages well and there are less attachments at the frame. Two uppers and 2 lowers is the hardest to package, but gives good control and redundancy, but again will bind up with articulation. 3 link, what I personally run, packages relatively well (one less arm to find room for) and because there's only one upper, and all the links are independent flexes very well. Triangulated works well and flexes well but is usually next to impossible to package in a front (I run a double triangulated in the rear), but it gets rid of the trackbar and keeps the axle centered better under all conditions. The advantage dual trianguated has over single triangulated is being able to bring the mounting point of the lower arms above the bottom of the frame (where they catch a lot of rocks). In both cases the uppers are attached at the frame rails and meet at the middle of the axle to prevent side to side movement and axle rotation.

    Hope that helps some.
    Thanks for the reply tealj. I have been thinking about how much I'm going to drop on the D300 flip and I'm going to be around $1000cdn seals, flip kit, ring. I may just do a NP241. My concern is I'm on my 3rd NP242 and this one I've found metal in as well. I've read the NP241 is stronger but how much stronger. My 5.2l has may upgrades, injectors, TB, intake, cam, etc. making more power, trans is rebuilt with shift kit and 2200 stall converter and 3.73 gears. My new axles have 4.88. I'll be on either 35's or 37's. So I need a stronger TC. I have 2ea 231, 1ea 242, 1ea D300 and 2ea BW1339. I'd really like a Atlas but can't see spending $2500. Decisions decisions $$$ lol.
    As for front arms I'm leaning towards the 3 link for simplicity. I'd like a double triangulated to get rid of the trac-bar, just a ton of work lol. Thanks.

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