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Thread: The Drive Clean FAQ:

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    The Drive Clean FAQ:

    Drive Clean Test and Repair procedure;
    UPDATED Jan 9, 2013

    This is a updated breakdown of how the Drive Clean testing program works for consumers. Hopefully this will answer most of your testing questions.

    Basic Info: Owners' responsibilities;
    • Vehicle testing begins when it is 7 years old or when resold/traded in. Reminders are sent with your sticker renewal letter.
    • Vehicles are tested every 2 years thereafter.
    • All vehicles are tested upon resale unless they are current model year (2013 car in 2013)
    • Pass certificates are good for 1 year from the date of the test. If you sell within 1 year of testing, you may include that test certificate with the vehicle - It is still valid.
    • Vehicles are visually checked for an installed Catalytic Converter, Gas Cap or leaking fluids that may be dangerous to my equipment. Missing catalytic converter will rejected the vehicle from testing.
    • The Repair Cost Limit (RCL) is set at $450 for all areas of Drive Clean using OEM parts.
    • There are some situations where a Drive Clean test is not needed when transfering ownerships, such as transfering a vehicle within the immediate family, or buying out your lease. Call Drive Clean to see if you qualify.
    • "Historic" plated vehicles no longer need a Drive Clean test. This will include 1988+ vehicles as they become 30 years old.


    Make a mental note of that last one. It may be worth getting Historic plates for your Jeep soon.

    The Test Procedure;

    Description;
    Vehicles 1998 to current; The test procedure connects your 1998+ vehicle to the OTU (Ontario Test unit) via the OBD2 port. The Unit then verifies that all your on-board monitors have been run. In short, modern cars monitor themselves and the OTU will verify that the car is performing within normal parameters. Do not clear your check engine light before you go in for a test - it will be detected and rejected (and you're told to come back again in 5 days). Photographs are taken of your car, the plate, and the VIN placard. Do not use plates from another vehicle to get to the test facility.
    Vehicles 1988-1997; Vehicles are subjected to Two Speed Idle tests, using a gas bench to 'sniff' the tailpipe emissions to ensure compliance, similar to previous testing on AWD vehicles. OBD is not connected, and it's my understanding the Check Engine light does not influence your Drive Clean test.

    Procedure;
    - Bring your vehicle to the inspection facility and have it tested.
    - IF YOU PASS, proceed to DMV for stickers. Fail, continue below.
    - IF YOU FAIL, you have 2 options:

    Either: You take the vehicle home and make your own repairs or adjustments. Drive Clean & Counter staff can NOT help you diagnose the failure, they can only provide the government issued pamphlet and circle what may be wrong with your car.

    OR: You may employ the Drive Clean Repair Technician to diagnose your vehicle. The diagnosis is a definitive answer to what caused your car to fail. Usually, diagnosis cost about $100. In order to qualify for the Repair Cost Limit (RCL), you must have the Drive Clean Repair Technician inspect and diagnose the vehicle - even if you know what's wrong.

    THEN:
    You now have the answer as to why your vehicle failed. The DCF will offer you a quote on the cost to repair your vehicle. If the combined cost of the diagnosis, parts and labour exceed the RCL (currently $450) you will qualify for a Conditional Pass Certificate. This certificate is only valid to the current vehicle owner, for the purpose of purchasing plate stickers. To obtain a Conditional Pass Certificate, you are responsible to pay for the Initial Test, the Diagnostics charges, and the Re-Test. If you've bought a vehicle and need to plate it, you MUST pass emissions - RCL does not apply.

    READ THIS PART CAREFULLY:

    Directly from the Drive Clean website:
    "It should be clearly understood that repairs done at a non-accredited garage, or by a do-it-yourselfer WILL NOT QUALIFY for the applicable Repair Cost Limit".
    This means even if you pay for the diagnosis the RCL will not apply and you'll still have to let the garage do the work.

    Hot Rods & Engine Swaps;
    1988-2000 Model years; A Hot-Rod vehicle is any vehicle that is equipped with an engine that was not available from the manufacturer in that model, ever. The block must be changed. The Owner is responsible to prove their engine is a hot rod if not visible without disassembly. This can be proven with pictures and parts receipts, or an invoice from the engine builders and installing garage. Bring photocopies for the inspecting facility to keep with their files.

    2000+ Model Years; There is NO Hot-Rod provision for M.Y. 2000 and up anymore. You must pass the emissions requirements for that vehicle in that year. Dropping a 350 into a 2002 TJ? Make sure you're runnning quality catalytic converters and an EGR system. I believe Hot-Rods are Two-Speed Idle tested, unless you're running the original (or software modified) ECU/Fuel delivery/Emissions Control systems. I recommend ALL HOTROD OWNERS contact Drive Clean before trying to have their vehicles tested.


    For official contact with Drive Clean please contact the Drive Clean HelpLine at 877-445-9486.
    Last edited by Noltz; 01-09-2013 at 02:14 PM. Reason: Regular updating
    ....-Noltz
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    '95 4Runner SR5. Air-Lift bags, OBA & 8K Winch, DD... gone.

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    Well good to know the stupid woman behind the counter was wrong about my 71 Charger. Tried to aruge with her and she didnt listen so I just didnt renew the plates as its sitting for the winter now anyways.

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    QUOTE: "All vehicles 1988 and newer, up to 5 model years old, will be tested every year for the life of the vehicle. The 20+ year old exemption has been lifted. For 1987 and back, you still qualify for exemption."



    Last week, at the driver's bureau, the woman said I still have to e-test my 87 XJ in march. I wonder if I wait until a day after my birthday, and maybe then I won't need it? I am so confused about this now.

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    only 1986 are exempt 1987 still needs this year only, then no more tests.
    my wife (RIP) hated my jeep too so i ran her over with it and now we are both happier (me and the jeep)

    RETREAD #13

    04 Wrangler, 4" lift and 33's

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    All of this makes me sooooo happy that I live in an area that doesn't have E-tests!
    I'm willing to rent out my address to anyone who wants it so that they don't have to do it too, lol
    If it isn't broke......... then I must not own it!!!!!

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    Instant;

    I have the letter from the head of the Toronto Automobile Dealers Association, Bill Davis, right in front of me. The exact line is "Eliminate the 20 year rolling exemption for older light duty vehicles beginning with 1988, vehicles behinning in 2009". Now this means the 1987 MUST still be tested this year, because it's 19 years old, not 20. That said, you still qualify for a conditional pass. Refer to the FAQ about the procedures on conditional pass certificates. If you wait until 2007, your truck is 20 years old an no longer requires a Drive Clean.

    In short: You do need to drive clean your truck once more.

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    I have a 1989 yj with a 1986 258. I bought it 6 months ago and it passed the e test.(don't know how) My birthday is in march and I went last week for stickers. I got stickers for 2 years and it was explained to me that in 2 years I can pay $100 for a diagnostic that says it will be more then $650 so I can get a conditional pass for another 2 years. By that time the jeep might be dead. Is this right or wrong..
    Dave
    If what I don't know can't hurt me; I'm indestructable!

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    Re: The Drive Clean FAQ:

    Originally posted by Noltz

    -A Hot-Rod vehicle is any vehicle that is equipped with an engine that was not available from the manufacturer in that model, ever.
    Just to clarify this....... a Hot Rod is classified as a vehicle equipped with an engine that was not available in that MODEL...... or that MODEL YEAR????

    So if i put a 4L in an 88YJ does that make it a hot rod since only the 4.2 was available in that year (well, and the 4 banger) or am I screwed because in was availalbe in YJ's in later years?
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    it is a factory motor tammy wont work. but if u put in a 350, or even a 4.3L v-6 than it would change that is my understanding
    PIT BOYZ
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    Originally posted by Uncle Jesse
    I have a 1989 yj with a 1986 258. I bought it 6 months ago and it passed the e test.(don't know how) My birthday is in march and I went last week for stickers. I got stickers for 2 years and it was explained to me that in 2 years I can pay $100 for a diagnostic that says it will be more then $650 so I can get a conditional pass for another 2 years. By that time the jeep might be dead. Is this right or wrong..
    Dave

    So, can someone clarify....if I get the e-test done, and I fail, I then get the $100 diagnostic done. If the diagnostic says I need more than $650-$100=$550 worth of repairs, I get a conditional pass right there? But I thought you still had to spend the $650, then you get the conditional pass. Which way is correct? Sounds like the first way to me.

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    Also, what determines a vehicle's age? I understand the driver's bureau goes by your birthday, right? So my '87 Jeep is 19 years old (damn that's old), and my birthday is March 10th. So on March 11th, I think my Jeep is now considered 20 years old in the eyes of the driver's bureau. ANybody here work for the DB?

    Just FYI, this is how I skated by the e-test last year. I went a few days after my birthday, and the DB lady said I didn't need it anymore, because getting a valid e-test at that point would cover me beyond the 20 year mark, which would be redundant (what ever redundant means???). I guess I'll find out next month.

    "I'm so confused" (voice of Vinny Barbarino)...

    Don't get me wrong, I am not trying to avoid the e-test, it's just that my Jeep sees so little road time, it's not worth pumping any more money into it. 3 to 6 more months, and she goes to the great boneyard in the sky. Thanks for listening...

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    instant, sound like you were lucky.... my '85 RX7 still needs one more test before i can renew my sticker. it's been in storage for 2 years because it needs at least a new cat to pass. i was under the impression that you could not get a conditional pass if it was the last test the car had to take.
    2002 TJ Sport

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    Originally posted by swm
    instant, sound like you were lucky.... my '85 RX7 still needs one more test before i can renew my sticker. it's been in storage for 2 years because it needs at least a new cat to pass. i was under the impression that you could not get a conditional pass if it was the last test the car had to take.
    No etest required for this.Also goes by the year of jeep not build date.

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    All inquirys PM'ed. Mugsy, SWM does need an E-Test. He owned the vehicle and let his stickers laps. He is required to buy stickers for the years he missed. They've closed that loophole.

    His only POSSIBILITY would be to turn in his plates with the ownership, and have a new ownership printed as "unplated". Then, with a new safety and insurance papers, go back in for new plates under the "classic vehicle" rules, that is 20 years and older.

    Cheers all.

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    so how does it work with a hotrod then? do you still have to be etested? and if you do do you have to pass emissions for that motor or what?

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    As per Hot Rods, "...it will be considered a hot rod if the motor differs from the type that was originally offered by the manufacturer for that particular model year. All hot rods registered as the model year 1999 or earlier will continue to be tested according to 1980 emission standards. Vehicles registered as model year 2000 and later will be tested according to emission standards for their model year. "

    Sooo.... that means that a YJ or TJ, up to 1999, can be swapped out no problem. You will be tested as a HOT ROD vehicle. This means you must meet 1980 federal emissions standards. Those standards are the limits that the folks in Ottawa said to the manufacturers "If you want to sell that car here, it must not exceed this." They're pretty leinant, about 300 HC and 1.0% CO. Carbs have a problem meeting the CO, but anything injected should easily pass with a cat and EGR.

    Just to make it clear: 2000+ vehicles must pass the regular emissions levels for that vehicle, regardless if you changed the engine. In effect, there are no 2000+ Hot Rods.
    Last edited by Noltz; 03-19-2006 at 09:02 PM.

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    bump...


    quote:
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Originally posted by Uncle Jesse
    I have a 1989 yj with a 1986 258. I bought it 6 months ago and it passed the e test.(don't know how) My birthday is in march and I went last week for stickers. I got stickers for 2 years and it was explained to me that in 2 years I can pay $100 for a diagnostic that says it will be more then $650 so I can get a conditional pass for another 2 years. By that time the jeep might be dead. Is this right or wrong..
    Dave
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------




    So, can someone clarify....if I get the e-test done, and I fail, I then get the $100 diagnostic done. If the diagnostic says I need more than $650-$100=$550 worth of repairs, I get a conditional pass right there? But I thought you still had to spend the $650, then you get the conditional pass. Which way is correct? Sounds like the first way to me.

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    First way is correct Instant.
    1) Test, and fail
    2) Diagnose ($100), and get quote.
    3) Quote under $550, you must do.
    4) Quote over $550, you pay $17.50 for retest. Conditional Pass issued on retest.

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    so basically, im gonna be paying a miniumum extra $35 dollars every year until im 40 just to renew the plates on my 02?


    i got hosed. lol

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    Once your vehicle is 12 years old, you get tested yearly. 5-11, every other year. Watch for a red asterix on your renewal notice.

    And we're all getting hosed. I do my own tests, and I STILL have to pay full pop.

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