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Thread: Freakbuilt YJ2 / The slow build of my new YJ

  1. #1
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    Freakbuilt YJ2 / The slow build of my new YJ

    So, I picked up this 1987 Jeep YJ from a member on this board in a straight trade for my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD. I drove it the hour and a half drive back to Welland from Hamilton with the Carb doing the usual sputter and die thing that all 4.2L owners know so well and will now be starting up my slow build up on it that I had originally planned to do to my 1990 Jeep YJ before it became a parts vehicle.

    I am calling it project Freakbuilt YJ2 (or maybe Y2J) since I was going to call the other one Project Freakbuilt YJ since the majority of the work would be done by ToyotaFreak. And since he has built the rear bumper, shackles, and stroker for it, I will continue with this name

    This project is also going to be a more low budget build up using as much used or fabricated parts as I can get, and trying to make it as original and unique as possible

    The specs on this Jeep
    - 4.2L I6 motor with 233k km's w/nutter Bypass already done
    - Stock Automatic tranny and t-case
    - Stock Dana 30/35 Axles
    - P235 75 R15 tires on stock Jeep Aluminum rims
    - Flat rear leaf springs
    - stock rear bumper with light duty trailer hitch
    - Newer Black paint with almost 0 rust on the body
    - Half Doors and Soft top for the Summer, Full Doors and Hard Top for the winter
    - Stock Black seats front and rear
    - Tan stock Dash

    The goal of this build will be to build a good looking and capable offroad truck that can turn heads on the street and have "hardcore wheelers" scoff at it being a mall crawler, then see me on the trails wheeling right along side them. It will be for mostly trail rides, maybe some rock crawling/washouts with it, it won't see much mud runs though.

    it will be built up slowly as I have the time and money to do it. I have alot of stuff now from my other YJ, but it won't be a rushed job, it will get done when it gets done.

    This is the Before shots, taken this weekend. The previous owner had already safetied it, and since it no longer required an etest, it is plated and on the road



    And the Current Interior



    The current Motor


    Future Plans at this moment

    - Swap out Tan interior for Grey Interior of my old 1990 YJ
    - Swap out front Seats for Vinyl Mustang Seats from my other YJ
    - Swap out hinges and grill for Stainless accessories (I want it to look good and work good)
    - Install a working Radio
    - Install a "Juice Box 6" Ignition upgrade
    - Install a manual disconect for the front axle to remove the old vaccum disconnect
    - Add extra lights for night wheeling
    - Swap stock rear bumper for fabricated rear bumper off my old YJ
    - Have a new front bumper fabricated or modify the stock one
    - Install 4" Lift Springs I purchased years ago for the 90 YJ along with lift shackles from my other YJ, drop pitman arm, and SYE that I have already
    - Get some 33" - 35" Tires for it that are good for weekend wheeling and city driving
    - Eventually install a 4.6L Stroker motor that I have built at the moment (by ToyotaFreak, who also built the rear bumper and lift shackles that I have) when the 4.2L finally dies, or when I have the extra time and a place to do it
    - Install a CB and Whip

    There will be more as I think of it
    Last edited by apuszczalowski; 03-04-2008 at 01:46 AM.
    1987 Jeep YJ - Daily driver/trail rig - On the road but Currently under construction

    Thanks everyone for helping me realise I really do dislike people in general

    I'm just a regular Joe, with a regular Job, I'm your average white Suburbanite slob
    I like Football, and Porno, and Books about War

  2. #2
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    Things I have already done to the YJ

    - I went to install one of the extra Cd players I have lying around into it, but the one I wanted to put in it I forgot where I put the wiring harness for it so I had to put in an older one from my other YJ. When i went to put it in, I had to hack through some of the wiring to wire it in, and I don't know if half the wires are good for it. I have to figure out which one is the constant (the one that supplies the power to keep the clock and station presets) because it doesn't keep the stations in memory. Also the front speakers need to be replaced. I have 6 x 9's in boxes for the back but I have not put them in yet. I may get my brother (who is studying electrical engineering right now) to re wire under the dash, the stereo system for the jeep.

    - At first I just fiddled around with the Carb to turn it up ad keep it running a bit better and not stall all the time, but that didn't work all that well. I found out after tracing some wiring and finding a plug undone that someone already did the nutter bypass, and the carb had already been replaced/rebuilt (another Carter though), so I opened up the venturis and cleaned them out, and drilled out the Idle tubes to 0.032" like the write up someone here sent me said. It worked a little better but I think the carb still needs a proper tuning now. Hopefully the tuning, and the future ignition upgrade will make it run better, and after changing the head gasket and intake gaskets, replacing the plugs will make it run in top shape again.

    I think the next step right now is going to be taking the grey interior out of the other YJ and cleaning it up and putting it in the new YJ. Since its going to be a DD and Weekend trail rig, Carpets and full interior will go back in it.

    Also when the "Juice Box 6" ignition upgrade comes in (anyday now) I will get that on and see if it helps

  3. #3
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    In the future i also have some ideas for some accessories/parts that I will make out of a really big piece (+/- 4x6 sheet) of aluminum Diamond plate I picked up at a buddies garage sale for $10!!!!!

    The grill from my 1990 YJ will go in this Jeep soon


    Along with this Rear bumper (possibly modified so I can keep the rear hitch currently on my YJ




    All feedback/tips/comments/advise/help is appreciated.

  4. #4
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    i dont know a whole lot about building bumpers nor do i know anything about welding, but ur little shackle tabs on the bumper were u have the d-links or shackles hanging from doesnt look to very strong, would hate to see that rip off, and hurt someone or hit someone else rig.... not try to pick a fight just putting out a observation is all...
    I Like My Women Like I Like My Jeeps..... Wet And Dirty!!
    89 YJ Islander 4.2L, SOA d30/d44 lock rite locker, tj shafts/297 u joints, 35x16x15 boggers, custom wrap bar, 15x10 american racing rims, AA SYE, Warn 8274, custom front/rear bumper, fog lights, teraflex high steer, 1 ton tie rods ends, 40 series flowmaster, leather xj power seats - SOLD!!
    81 camaro, TH350, 468BBC - SOLD!!

  5. #5
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    The guy who fabricated the Bumper welded those on, I can't remember if I have used them or not to get pulled out yet, I think my old YJ died just after the bumper was made for it.

    I can tell you that they are on there pretty solid, but I am still going to probably put some other recovery points on it too.

  6. #6
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    oh ok, well just seen em and dont wanna hear a story on hear that someone got hurt cuz of a little thing that got looked over or something like that...

    only asking about it, as i was on a run with a guy with a yota pickup, and he was hung up on his axles, and a brand new rubi came to pull him out and yanked on it and ended up tearing off his ENTITE bumper and that smashed the front grill, busted the fog lights off the bumper, bent the front bumper up and back, along with crushing the front fender and hood as well..... and there was people standing right beside the jeep along with a 3 year old kid beside his mom or dad (cant member) driver if rubi was really shook up... he thought he had his bumper welded on good but apprently not...

    just dont want stuff like that to happen is all..

  7. #7
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    GOOD to see you geting back in the game.
    1989 YJ
    " The Diesel "

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJ_HOOKER View Post
    sounds cool. pete builds wild stuff, should turn out nice.
    Yes he does, he's a good guy when you get to know him, but you don't want to get on his bad side, and with that, maybe its time I get my motor from him thats been sitting in his shop for 2 years

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buddy_YJ View Post
    GOOD to see you geting back in the game.
    I know, if feels good to drive a YJ again, I just can't believe you got rid of the Diesel, guess you are just going to have to wheel the "Caddy"

  10. #10
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    You need to get the proper tabs put in the bumper otherwise there will be parts and cable flying if you are in any type of gumbo. You could leave those D rings on so you can secure bulky stuff in the back of the YJ.
    OF4WD Member #5196

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    Quote Originally Posted by macka View Post
    You need to get the proper tabs put in the bumper otherwise there will be parts and cable flying if you are in any type of gumbo. You could leave those D rings on so you can secure bulky stuff in the back of the YJ.
    Yeah, I don't plan on using those 'D'-Rings at all as recovery points, especially if I am stuck bad. I also don't plan on getting stuck in any deep Muck, I'm not into that kind of wheeling anymore, no more "going slopping around getting burried to the frame in Deep Mud" anymore, too much damage and cleaning afterwards

  12. #12
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    If those rings are the ones i think they are they are plenty strong enough. Rated at 10 000lbs if i remember right. Like everything it is only as strong as the weld and the material it is welded to.

    Think of it this way:

    We all use trailer hitches and some of us use them as recovery points. But how strong is the hitch pin? How rusted are the holes the bolts holding the bumper on? Will the bolts pull through the hole as it rusts more?
    ************************************************** *******
    I know my seat of the pants dyno lies and my visual engineering calculations are not always accurate. Check the ratings and do the calculations.

  13. #13
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    Almost forgot about this post

    Might as well update it. Not much done to it since the last post. its used occasionally and I'm just trying to get it running without stalling.

    The Grill was changed over, and the "juice Box" ignition upgrade done to it. I changed the timing chain on it too as I was having a hell of a time trying to get it timed right. The old one seemed kind of flimsy and I had a new one just sitting in the garage (I installed it on a previous motor in my last Jeep and that motor only stayed running for about a month after).

    I have accumulated most of tha parts to finish the stroker, and most of the parts to do a 4" lift with 33's.

    My only question is the lift I am putting in is basically me just piecing stuff together. I have a set of used 4" lift springs, and some 1" lift shackles. I purchased 4 brand new shocks and just need some u-bolts for the axle. The question is, is there anything else I will need besides maybe extending the brake lines (i do have a set of brake line extensions)? Do I need shims for the axle and if so, where do I get them from and what should I ask for (d35 rear/30 front)? Do I need to install a SYE or extend the driveshaft for this much lift? I have a Hack and Tap SYE kit that should be for the t-case I have that I picked up second hand a while ago, just wondering if it needs to be installed right now. I also have a drop pitman arm too.

    This is going to be a vehicle used 50/50 street and offroad (maybe 75/25 street and offroad) so I want everything safe and driveable on the street.

    Plus, does anyone know of a way to properly put aluminum pieces onto the body? I have some thick aluminum checker plate I am going to use for protection/looks, but I don't want to end up needing to replace rotting steel next year

  14. #14
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    you are gonna need a sye, but that you already know. to mont aluminum to steel, there cant be any direct contact between the 2 metals. my old man had a land rover, and what he did was
    1-paint both pieces to be joined, with brush paint(not rattle cans) so you get nice thick coats. let paint dry.
    2- predrill your holes and paint he inside of the holes and let them dry.
    3- use stainless bolts.
    4-seal the perimeter of the joined pieces with silicone. there has to be a liquid(electrolyte) for corrosion to occur. so keep the water away, keep the corosion away.
    good luck, hope this helped
    currently building a toyota. i'm sorry.

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    I just noticed this thread now.. For those wondering about the rear tow points, believe me when I say those are not going anywhere. It's hard to see in the photos but they are rated at over 10,000 lbs and they are welded properly to the bumper.. I didn't just start doing this shit yesterday... I stick weld everything with 7018.. I have tested this shit out many times and have never had a tow point fail. If you seen the way I extract a vehicle you'd understand.

    Andrew, get ahold of me this week sometime and we'll talk about a few things..

    TF
    NIAGARA TERRAIN CRAWLERS - FOUNDER

    Freakbuilt 4X4s - Rigs that actually perform offroad, not just big lifted junk.

  16. #16
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    Will do

    The timing chain (I just picked up a regular one) and the pushrods should be here anyday now from Quadratec, and I'm just trying to order the gaskets now. I had made an order with 4wd hardware for some stuff, but they don't want to get back to me so I'm trying to get the gaskets in from somewhere else

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    Lol, I told everyone in the title this would be a slow build

    Just a small update. I pulled apart most of the dash and had planed to do a custom dash but the material I had to do it with was either too short or too thick, So I just painted the tan metal dash plate black, swapped in some new 4x6 speakers and a Pioneer deck, and switched all the other tan parts over to a grey dash I had in my other jeep.

    I put in a set of Re-active "racing seats" up front, and I have a cool idea that I am going to do with the extra APC seat. (at first I thought about getting a base made up and mounting it as a rear instead of the bench, but it limits it to a 3 seater and the seat would be too high so I have a better idea for it thats not jeep related). I somewhat fixed the problem of the seat putting my legs against the wheel when I'm sitting in it with the wheel at the highest setting, I added spacers to the back of the seat to move the back up (fixing the other problem of the seat leaning too far back) and it give a little bit of room.

    I picked up some soft uppers that I need to have new zippers installed on (or just get the windows sewn in as one piece since I will probably have the windows out if its a nice day and i want a window open)

    I have almost everything to finish the Stroker build for it, but have been contemplating something I'm not sure is possible and most would probably say is a dumb idea. For simplicity purposes, and for easy repair/adjustments, is it possible to put a Carburator (like a holley) onto a 4.0L motor/intake? I know I have seen the opposite done, putting a FI head and intake onto a 4.2L, but what about going the other way, an aftermarket carb onto a 4.0l intake and head? I was just thinking it takes away having to worry about computers and wiring, it would keep it simple, and since its an '87, no emissions testing ever. If I would have known I would get an '87 eventually, and was aware of how much I would be spending on the stroker build, I would have kept the 5.0L I had originally planned to put in it and went with that.

    I may take some more picks of it by this weekend. I need to swap the winshield hinges out (luckily I got a set of chrome ones for a steal) because the ones on it are about to snap from when i tried lowering the windshield to remove the dash. I don't look forward to this swap though. I also would like to eventually get the motor in it right now to finally run right, I think the new timing chain in it is a tooth off as I have tried adjusting the carb which had been rebuilt before I bought the jeep, the fuel pump is brand new and it has the nutter bypass done, but it still runs like a typical 4.2L motor with a stock carb.

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