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Thread: XJ budget Hack

  1. #1
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    XJ budget Hack

    Found a 91' , 2 door for $650.00, and couldn't pass it up. Was stock w/ nothing molested when i got it. Just finished my garage in my first house, and had a 88' Xj w/ 31's 6 years ago that I miss, so here's my lastest Build.

    It has 160000kms, A/C, Auto(would prefer manual, but the AW4 is a good tranny) ,ABS power everything, and seems to have every option i have ever heard about. I'm sure these luxuries are going to be anything but when it gets sank in the holes.

    Junk 33" front tires that I cut/grooved/sipped to work better. On the back i got some Micky T Baja's. There about 30% left. Found them under the trailer at Just jeeps. They are mounted on new 15"/8" RockCrawler rims. 3.75" BS.

    Edit: It's got better tires now! (2nd pick added to show)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jeep 016.jpg   crackbook 003.jpg  
    Last edited by stickyken; 09-16-2008 at 02:15 PM. Reason: A little clean up, and some changes.
    1991 Xj Gone to a new home.
    1948 willys Jeep pickup sitting and waiting.
    1984 toyota currently beating & building.

    OF4WD #6069

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    Over all I think it's about 4" lift

    I have Swapped the rear axle for a 80's XJ D44 w/ new Lockrite, bearings, seals, and I shortend the shock mounts 2 inchs. 2.5 " AAL + extra stock leaf, new custom made u-bolts, pins, clamps. Lowered the bumpstops 2 inches. D 35 brakes for now w/ new cylinders etc.

    Welded a cover i found in my dad's shop on top of the stock one. About .25 thick now (It's a bling chrome machine now)

    The Dana 44 XJ model has a 1" longer pinion yoke so this helped with slipyoke issue on the other end. The slip yoke at the TC is in the same position as it was stock. I replaced the joints, and the pinion yoke straps w/ the U -bolt type. I had to drill out the holes, and clearance the backside of the yoke so the nuts on the u-bolt straps had a better seat. Did this partly because the strap threads were stripped, but is a stronger setup now.


    Just noticed that wet spot on the cover in the pic when i zoomed in. A little to hot with the welder there opps. This was more of an experiment anyways. If it don't drip Ill leave it. Any body selling a HD d44 cover ? LOL(Edit: it turned out to be a spill from filling. it's fine)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jeep 009.jpg  
    Last edited by stickyken; 05-30-2008 at 12:59 PM.

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    I like it!

    YouTube Videos
    98 AM General Hummer with 2" lift and 38" Tires
    1982 Suzuki LJ80V - Pretty much stock other than a light bar and some lights... lots of mods to come

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    The front is some old coils from the 88' XJ build+1.75" spacers, 3" shocks with some extentions on the bottom, RE disco's.
    About 3.5" lift

    Working on some high clearance rockers(pics), and fender trimming.

    Im relocating the flares up higher. The pics should explain.

    Also, I glued in some round bumper thingy's on the bottom coil bucket i found at PA for bumpstops. They are about 1", and I use Bull dog to glue them to the coil buckets.(I have hit them with a hammer and they aint goin no where)
    Sorry about the Editing, but you get the point.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jeep.jpg   jeep 008.jpg   jeep 007.jpg  
    Last edited by stickyken; 03-27-2008 at 10:26 AM.

  5. #5
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    I know the welds are poor, but did what I could do with what i got. Using a 100 mig on gas, the 2" X 6" tubing is 1/8"thick. Give me a stick welder and I will show you an even better mess LOL. I think it will hold.

    I braced underneath with some 1.5 by 1.5" angle. It fit perfect. Butted up to the floor board seam. Tack welded these sections, and had to a make cut to go around the seat belt bolting points. I got some really strong stainless rivits that take 80 lbs. to crack off I'm gonna throw in this bracing. The little mig welder almost refused to work upside down . LOL

    Edit: I had to shorten the door about 1.5 " to do this style of rocker rail. Also had to repair rust anyways. Rust was the motive for all the rocker/door work, but it way better then stock now.

    edit: Just a note to all when taking the doors off a XJ. The Torx hardware blows. Go buy six new normal headed bolts per door for re-install. I had to grind down a tool just to get the OEM hardware out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jeep 002.jpg   jeep 003.jpg   jeep 004.jpg   jeep 005.jpg   jeep 006.jpg  

    Last edited by stickyken; 09-16-2008 at 10:33 AM. Reason: grammer&spelling+ notes

  6. #6
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    Um testing, yeah testing thats what im doing.

    Didn't hit to bumpstops yet. Maybe I will let um rub. It's definatly close! i want to put the stock Flares back on to, but up higher of course.

    Edit: I just remembered that on that side pic w/ it up on the tires, that corner is on the bumpstop. What do ya think? Is it gonna catch the fender when its turned at that compression? Opinions/experiance please. I can do a bit more trimming before i do the paint and stuff. I will start the other side in the mean time.

    side note:
    Thanks to everybody who has ever contributed to the internet. Jeepkings, and sites like it have saved me Money/time/headaches. I have left out quite a few little details ,so ask and i will ansewer. Im trying not to get caught at work.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jeep 015.jpg   jeep 018.jpg   jeep 017.jpg  
    Last edited by stickyken; 03-25-2008 at 05:00 PM.

  7. #7
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    nice rig come do mine now lol

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    Hey, when you the excess metal off of the front fenders, did you have to re weld anythign in there. i want to do mine this summer and want to do it the easiest way possible, trying to without messing around with the inner fender.

    Nice truck man. Good deal for $650

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    twin2626- Don't be fooled by the purchase price. I got over 4 X the the purchase price into it, and I'm not even finished stage 1. This add up quick ie. Axle swap w/ total rebuild & locker, Rad, Harmonic balancer, Lots of new brake parts, etc.

    Edit: I DO think it was a good deal. The rig didn't sound nice when I checked it out though. The balancer seperated and was hitting the fan. He didn't want me to start it. This was why it was so cheap, but I went out on a limb for the mighty 4.0. It turned out to be fine after I replaced the balancer.


    In the hand pic you can see the body line is that i cut along. When the flares go back on it should cover the ugly chips. I just use plyers to bend the the .5" lip inward that was left from cutting. It gives me about a 1"+ clearance over stock. The plastic inner fender is taken out , and some of the seams need to be pounded down w/ a hammer after i did the test. Im planning on using parts of the plastic inner in the rear part to stop mud and stuff from gettinig through to the door jam area. I may weld a little bit wear the folds oppose from bending in, but thats only because the tires may still catch the plastic flare. No flare/no problem so far.I will update you on this.

    Edit: The back was good for clearance, but the front wasn't after the PA glued on bumpstops fell off! Drilled and tapped a bolt to hold on. Was all good till I got the swampers. Then I had to cut some more from the front.
    Last edited by stickyken; 08-29-2008 at 12:49 PM.

  10. #10
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    Well, I for one think that it is beautiful but then I may be just a tad biased.
    Good score! Have fun.
    Tim
    '98 XJ 2dr. 3" and 33" ATs --His--
    '99 XJ 4dr. 3" and 31 AT's --Hers--
    '72 J4000 --Ours?--

    It's all good.

  11. #11
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    TNC- I would like to think it's more mean lookin' then Beautiful LOL. I like the motor swap. Hey you got any comments/suggestions on my fender trimmin'?


    Close up of of grooving. The tool i have is called the Ideal heated knife. I only have the stock size tip that comes with it, but there are tonnes of sizes avalible. the blade can be put in backwards for "Siping". Did some grooving/siping to my allseasons on my DD, and they work better in ALL ways. The tool is well worth the money($98.00+tax), and highly recommend it to anybody as cheap as me.(makes 50% tires alot better)

    When my XJ is finished stage 1 I will find some tires with some more bite left, but I spending money on stuff that isn't as easy as swapping tires. These are just to get built and the first trip, or two.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails tire cut.jpg  
    Last edited by stickyken; 03-30-2008 at 11:23 PM.

  12. #12
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    Hmmmm... Interesting.
    2K XJ - 6" lift with 33s (No cutting) - See Full Specs
    1998 XJ Laredo stock

    XJ owners, visit us at www.soxja.org Southern Ontario XJ Association

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    Stickyken: Trimmin? Go as far as you can!! hahaha. On my rear wheelwells we went inside the Jeep and cut out the inner wheel well from it's highest point to the outside. Then welded in sheetmetal straight out to the body and cut the fender to match. That yielded several inches and got rid of the rusted portion on mine.
    Also found fender flares real cheap. They are a universal style that worked really well. Soft enough rubber to not break when scraping past an object- trust me, I know. I think they were called Iron Horse or something; cost about $80. I'll double check the name and price for ya and post pics of mine.
    Tim
    ....oh, and mean looking like that qualifies as beautiful in my world. hehehehe

  14. #14
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    TNC- I understand the beauty you mean. Called a very nice Camaro at a car show Beautiful, and a fellow on-looker bitched at me about it, so since then i have been hiding my true meaning of beauty.....to the public. LOL. I was thinkin about a mini-comp cut style below the tail lights. I have seen what I think you did, and that would work well. The back isn't really a problem for my truck. I lowered the Bumpstops 2 inches, and raised the axles shock mounts up 2". I lose some uptravel, and gain some down. This keeps the tires out of the metel after i trimmed abit under the stock flare. The tire still hits the flare at the top, but should'nt chew it up. I want to see those flares u got.

    What ive Learned from the past XJ, and others online, and racing nitro R/C MT's lately is that a lower CG (center gravity) is good. I'm keeping it as low as possible, but when the time comes for long arms, bigger tires & axles, etc. I know i will need another inch, or two.
    Plus the budget is almost done for my May24 weekend goal. I haven't done all the things I wished for, but it should do well enough for a shakedown weekend of fun. This will probably never be a daily driver, or see a 100 kmh hwy. I in no way condone any of my modifications for the use in anybody else's vehicle.
    Last edited by stickyken; 03-27-2008 at 12:04 AM.

  15. #15
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    Stickyken- I hear ya. I went up 3" and modifed fenders for final clearance of the 33s. I'll never go higher being as I drive it every day- with a big smirkin grin on my face of course. and dang, I did the exact same thing on my rear axle shock mounts. Works well as it's also one less thing to drag in the dirt.

    These fender flares here are: Saddleman Fenderflares 3.5". With taxs they cost $97.74. They have been all good and excellent value for the dollar. I'll get some cell phone pics for ya.
    Tim

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    Thanks for the help man. They sound like a good deal. Ill check em out. I would like to see your ride, and how they look. Finished up the pass. side tonight. The paint is super glossy. I almost dont like it. I moved the stock flares up. think it turned out nice, but i may go with somethin else later. Still have to do something with behind the rear tire rocker. I just cut it out for now, but i need to close it up. May find time to do a rear bumper, and that would dictaite what the sides are like. Got to get at the other side rocker done in the mean time.

    Note: I just used side cutters, and metal shers to trim the stock flares like that. Super easy to do, and I like the factory look( Im also very cheap ). The front flare was a bit of a bitch, but it turned out better then I thought.
    Edit: I did swap the sides with front flares. After cutting it seemed to fit better, and they catch more mud due to the wider part being to the rear.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails flare 001.jpg   flare 002.jpg   flare 003.jpg  
    Last edited by stickyken; 08-29-2008 at 12:53 PM.

  17. #17
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    some pics

    Don't worry about the glossy paint. Mud'll take care of that!! The fender flares turned out good. Well done. Hope to see some closeups of final product eh.
    Here pics of mine. We used 6x2x1/8 tubing to make the rockers. Hopefully double as air tanks in the future.
    Tim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jeep side(630).jpg   Jeep corner(631).jpg   Jeep corner wheelwell(634).jpg   Jeep wheelwell(632).jpg   Jeep wheelwell(633).jpg  


  18. #18
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    Wow! our rigs have almost the same stance/lift. The Flares look durable. I like the blue!

    Here's some picks of the:

    -Pinion yoke strap mod.

    -The finished side w/ flares, and rockerrails.

    -The homemade, 2" , rear bumpstops.(two pieces of 2X2" angle welded together).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails doneside 001.jpg   doneside 002.jpg   doneside 003.jpg  

  19. #19
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    wats the purpose of the rear strap mod
    rockin the 95 xj custom 4inch lift and 285/75/16 bfg mud terrain km2 and bds discos R.I.P

    98 xj 4.0L 5spd 4.5" zone lift and m/t sidebiters looking for 33s

  20. #20
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    Man, I think you have it looking awesome. I like it very much. The rear strap is something I should do as well. We didn't adjust the bumpstops. When we did the floor, we moved the shock mount up. More overall travel that way.

    Blown85xj: The straps shown have a much lower failure rate than the bolt on style which tend to spit out the u-joint under the right conditions. Those conditions are less likely with an auto tranny.

    Tim

    edit: I gonna have to put temporary black paint on my rims and see how it looks. I think yours look right on.
    Last edited by TNC; 03-30-2008 at 08:02 PM. Reason: another thought

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