Thread: TJ Build

  1. #2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pippilongstocking View Post
    I know you don't want to take the vise grips off of your wallet...but you need to read the link and understand how you spec an Eco box. You order the box with whatever output you need to mate it to whatever t-case you want to use. In your case, you simply order it for the 31 spline Ford 205 you have now. There is no point in ordering an Eco box with a 32 spline GM output and then swapping your t-case to a 32 spline input when the 31 spline stuff can be left in place.

    And for the adapter, the Eco box does NOT mate to a t-case adapter. It bolts directly to the t-case. You spec the Eco box with the output mounting flange you require to bolt directly to the t-case.

    All you need to find is the 32 spline GM 241. These were in any GM truck with a 4L80 from 89-99. So, a lot of vehicles. They are a dime a dozen and not sought-after. They are cheap....like you!
    Talked to NWF and they said i need an adapter and possibly a spacer......need to measure my shaft again. But again, bit rich right now. lol. Sweet option for down the road!

    Quote Originally Posted by MattK View Post
    I feel ya. Got myself a 2wd 7.3 crew cab for the same reason!
    I saw that!
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  2. #2022
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    Also did a little re-organize for more tool boxes and what not, tidy, then started the half ass tear down and made a mess again. lol. The others are completely ripping down, cleaning and painting but knowing me mines pretty much ready for install. Might wire brush and air gun some shit off but we'll see.






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    Buddy if I remember rightly I have a Ford NP205, I took front output shaft, as it has more splines than chevy and I took the slip yoke eliminator for rear output. The input shaft is still in it and as its a Ford I think its the 32 spline one. The case is in Petes J10, go check what you can use from it!
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    You sir are correct. But it's 31 and the rear is missing. Good to pull apart and cut the top off tho! Lol


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    Did a gut n cut


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    Pretty sure if i can find a complete short 32 spline input 205 tcase from a chev (think they came behind th400/sm465) i'll have all the parts i need. Other then the factory th400/205 adapter.

    If anyone has any leads let me know

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    That was quick lol. Its missing rear output because it is on my Jeep, thats the old slip yoke output of some sort.

    Is the cutting just to remove that mount to make it smaller?

    Good thing I dont like to throw things away, now you have a puzzle to play with

  9. #2029
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    Just to add to the fun, there are two different 400/205 adapters depending on the year of the 205. There is the figure 8 pattern and the round pattern. You need the round pattern to bolt to your Ford 205. And I do believe you are going to need to clocking ring to index the 205 properly. It will probably be clocked at a goofy angle otherwise.
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  10. #2030
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    I know I need the 85 to 91 round pattern not the older race track figure 8. Think I also need to make a small spacer spacer with notch to clear shifter and trim tranny shaft. Never came across anything about clocking but I guess we'll see. Lol

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    I don't know about the clocking ring for sure. I'd just be very surprised if it indexes the case the right way but you never know.

    I cam across this link with a bunch of good pictures comparing the Ford 205 adapter and a GM 208 adapter (for the purpose of this discussion it is the same as the GM 205 adapter as the t-case mounting holes are indexed the same). It also shows the notching of the adapter that was done to clear the range shifter rod.

    http://www.patooyee.com/350toford205/350toford205b.htm

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    Quote Originally Posted by Herve-D-Limit View Post
    That was quick lol. Its missing rear output because it is on my Jeep, thats the old slip yoke output of some sort.

    Is the cutting just to remove that mount to make it smaller?

    Good thing I dont like to throw things away, now you have a puzzle to play with
    Ya, i think a chev 205 parts case will give me the output and input i need to complete the case.

    Yup, with the cage slammed down there is minimal real estate so that top chunk would likely be right up my asshole. lol

    Puzzle indeed, wish i read a couple articles before dissecting. Not bad tho, saw your post in the "morning" and had it dug out, cleaned, gutted and chopped by the afternoon. lol


    Quote Originally Posted by Pippilongstocking View Post
    I don't know about the clocking ring for sure. I'd just be very surprised if it indexes the case the right way but you never know.

    I cam across this link with a bunch of good pictures comparing the Ford 205 adapter and a GM 208 adapter (for the purpose of this discussion it is the same as the GM 205 adapter as the t-case mounting holes are indexed the same). It also shows the notching of the adapter that was done to clear the range shifter rod.

    http://www.patooyee.com/350toford205/350toford205b.htm
    haha. Yup, that's where i saw the notching. The spacer that i saw was on the tranny side and thicker but that may have been due to different tranny shaft length. Still can't wrap my head around why he needed that 1/4" spacer and yet to have found anyone that has done exactly what i'm trying to do. Most just open the wallet and call AA. I'm hoping to put it all together for around $300. Just need to get the other case and adapter and go from there. Would be nice to have a OEM pieced basically bolt on case with 32 spline all the way through. 2:1 low is kind of shyte but fawk it, it's an auto. lol.

    Gonna do the freebie twin stick mod while i have it all apart too
    Last edited by Curt's_97; 01-27-2016 at 10:03 AM.

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    Twin sticks cool
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    Did a wee bit of tube work. Got a funny feeling the rear axle is gonna move back maybe 4ish inches and come down 1 or 2. It'll give more room for drivetrain and tires will fit in the "fenders" better. Rig up the bender and get some more tube tomorrow.






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    I likey!

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    Looks great man
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    looking good!
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  18. #2038
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    Thanks guys! Think tonight is stretch and lowering the rear night.

    Few questions.

    Radiator. I don't want that shit behind my head and the CJ grill is tiny. My engine is quite back so there's a lot of depth to play with. Novak and similar have them for cj's with gen 3 swaps but the price is hard to swallow. So, is there any good shops that could build one.......or probably like 3 or 4? Or, do you think a $2-300 aftermarket 2 core for a cj with a 304 would keep up? In which case i'd have to route a hose from the lower driver over to the passenger side somehow if that's even feasible/possible.

    Power steering pump. Had no accessories on when i mocked the 5.3 in. The 6 is in and i had to bend the pump hard lines to clear my frame and on top of that it kills my shot at steering shaft. Pretty sure i'll be ok if i change the pump to one with remote reservoir. Might build a reservoir but if there's a big ass OEM one out there i can scoop at a wrecker that would make life easier. Any vehicles with big ol remote reservoirs?

    Still gonna have to build a double jointed steering shaft to get around everything which kind of sucks. lol


  19. #2039
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    I would not even consider a rad that is designed to fit in the confines of a CJ grill / rad support. Been there, done that several times - it's not worth messing with. I would recommend drilling out the spot welds on the CJ grill and remove the grill from the rad support structure. Toss the rad support structure and just keep the grill face. Make your own rad mount off of the frame or tube or whatever is convenient. This way, you will not have to fit a rad in the confines of a CJ grill.

    As a rule of thumb, 2" sq of core area per HP is desirable. Go as wide and tall as you can. Only ever consider going more than two cores of thickness if you cannot achieve a desirable core area. Extra thickness as seriously diminishing returns. Extra area does not.

    You can get a fairly cost effective quality aftermarket aluminum rads these days. You can get a fully welded aluminum GM style truck sized rad in a dual or single pass with water neck locations where ever you want from Ron Davis or Griffin for around $280 USD.

    You should be able to fit a 31" x 19" rad in there so cruise the wreckers for truck rads. And you can build rad hoses from tubing to travel to any location you want if necessary.

  20. #2040
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    That's a good idea! Pete's grill is just the willy's face. My grill is sunk down a fair bit which is messing with my real estate but i'll give it a measure. I test fit the rad that came with 6L and it was all kinds of nope. lol

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