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Thread: Jeep Yj Build

  1. #1
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    Jeep Yj Build

    Hello Everyone,

    I have been buiilding my jeep for a while and its been on hold since I have been fixing my DD YJ. after reparing the frame on my DD, I have come to the conclusion that I dont want to do it again as it sucks and its not fun, so I have decided, for my YJ buggy, I am going to build my own. attached are some CAD pics of the frame that I am going to build as well as the concept of my jeep suspension on it as well as the frame overlay of the new to the old.

    The frame will be 4x2 1/8 wall tube on the ends and over the wheels and 5x2 1/8 wall tube in the center skid area. the joints will all be capped with 1/8 plate except for the skid area which will be 1/4" plate capped. I have added spring and shock mounts for the front as well as I will be doing the same on the back. the frame drawing isn't complete yet but will be soon.

    Please take a look and give me your opinions. I have done the stress analysis on it and it looks good compared to the original.

    Once I start building it, I will keep you all up to date on the progress.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails FRAME1.jpg   FRAME2.jpg   FRAME3.jpg   JEEP.jpg  
    Steve Rogers
    Crazy Bastard

  2. #2
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    Looks good man. Interested to see the updates. Have you seen this thread on pirate. Gets right into weight vs strength. Seems like a number of good tips/tricks. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=691256

    Cheers
    97 TJ - The Build
    77 J10 - Death Proof
    11 SRT Challenger with some stuff
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  3. #3
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    where did you get the cad files.....? and are you willing to share? I can import most formats.
    My latest project... Collection of Parts

    Other stuff... Building a doubler, D300 Flip kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Deadman 94 xj View Post
    "Coil springs are for ballpoint pens and pogo sticks".
    ебут раком

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    I measured my frame and the created the files. I will share once complete as I dont want to give anyone false information if some of the measuremens are off. besides I garentee I will be tweeking the design as I build.

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    great work.... and thanks.

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    good link. I went with option#3

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    The stockers generally only fail because of rust. I feel you should address that situation on your frame by placing moisture escape holes at the failure points of the origional frame. (before and after hump, front steering box location,etc.....)

    I personally would make the steering box location 4x2x1/4, especially if the tires are going to be over 35" and you are going to link the front with a panhard bar. Both the steering box and panhard box will create the same torsional load in approximate the same area and are only restrained by the front crossmember which is a distance away ( this is where the whole force over distance thing will kill the frame.).

    Side note, I am not just running the mouth. Mech Eng by trade.

    go here, you will see. ohh and my panhard designed bracket is good, the place i mounted it is a FAIL waiting to happen, Stupid stuff like that is what happens with you rush stuff, It is currently in the process of being removed and rebuilt with the stock mount locations used (it was designed to be like that from the boys at jeep )


    http://www.soxja.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=912



    Bradford
    Last edited by Black88YJ; 06-19-2008 at 04:21 PM.
    95 ZJ 5.2L, Custom long arm 4 link Rear 3 link panhard front. D44/9" 4.88's locked and spooled,37x12.5 MTRs, 1 ton steering, Currently bumperless but rolling.

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    I too am a mech eng by trade. and I do agree with you on your points. I think I will change the design a bit on the front to control the steering. I am going 4 link on the front so no panhard bar but agree with the stress problem. I do like the idea of moisture escape so I will incorperate that as well.

    Any other suggestions or critique would be greatly appreciated.

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    and your build up is real cool. love the link brackets.

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    I never thought about the added stress of the 3link/panhard. I also moved mine up a few inches. Guess i''l have to look into that and brace or add another crossmember and brace.

  11. #11
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    I'd rather see you build yer own frame, i think that would be cool and have designed a jig to do one years back, but with the after market frames out there for a decent price, have you weighed the pros and cons of just buying one?

    Be interesting to hear your thoughts on this.

  12. #12
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    it will cost me about 600 to build one, roughly 2000 to buy one. the difference. piles of man hours

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    update on the frame.

    well, I have been working hard to get this frame started. so far I have made the frame jig, got all the angles cut and have tacked the frame sections together into three sections per rail. not the fun starts with alignment and joining the rails together. here are some pics of the progress so far.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00389.JPG   DSC00392.JPG   DSC00393.JPG   DSC00394.JPG   DSC00395.JPG  


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    man you work fast, your garage looks different every time i see it LOL.

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    thats the joys of having insomnia. not sleeping gives me lots of build time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hprtech View Post
    thats the joys of having insomnia. not sleeping gives me lots of build time.
    I'd bet lol

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    more updates of the frame progress.

    So, I got a bunch done last night. the frame is almost all tacked together and on the jig. everything is straight and true and secure to start welding.
    here are some pics of the progress.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails HPIM3103.JPG   HPIM3104.JPG   HPIM3105.JPG   HPIM3106.JPG  

  18. #18
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    Would I be able to get a copy of the YJ frame dims off of you? I’ve been using the metric one from AMC and the reference points are a little odd.

    Looks great so far, I’m about to start on my own frame build, but I still need to make a frame jig, and level the barn floor.

    Kyle

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