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Thread: OBA completed - The write up;

  1. #1
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    Talking OBA completed - The write up;

    I finally got one of those "I should have this" projects finished up - my OBA system. And, with lots of pictures! Enjoy,

    I started with a 7 gallon tank that was tossed due to a bent air valve on it;


    I cut off the feet and handle with a 3" wheel, leaving me with a solid little tank. I would not compromise the interior space, so the tank was going to be mounted under the truck. Using torches, I cut off the spare tire brackets, and the inoperative tire winch;


    Then I checked my clearances by mocking up the mounted tank. I had to move the tank a few times to get it just right. Not a problem when you've got a hoist at your disposal;




    Fabricating the actual brackets to hold the tank was actually rather easy. CTC sells these wonderful strapping brackets for ~ $5.00 each;




    Applied a little rocker guard to the brackets for that new car smell . Or to keep the rust off... you decide;




    And switch out the air control switch for an open tee.
    ...I ended up swapping this " unit for a 3/8's piece because I could not get enough " line at the time.



    Continued...
    ....-Noltz
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    '95 4Runner SR5. Air-Lift bags, OBA & 8K Winch, DD... gone.

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    With the tank was mounted up, it was time to move to the front. The truck came without A/C - a blessing in disguise for this install. A trip to B&D Auto Wreckers netted me a compressor, brackets, lines and a belt for $40. So, on to the install:

    The guts,


    The previously un-occupied spot on the block,


    Bracket mounted,


    Compressor's in,


    Add a tensioner and a belt, and your transplant is done!


    But the job's not done yet. Now we must feed this compressor fresh air, and route it's happy, compressed exhaust appropriately. I started by adding a ½ barbed fitting to the intake of the compressor;


    And added a stretch of black industrial water hose to that, crossing over the fan shroud, and tapping into the filter air line as shown;




    It was my original intention to draw oil vapours from the PCV system to lubricate the compressor. After setting it up and running it for a few moments, it was audibly clear that the PCV draw system wasn't going to cut it. The compressor was making a little more noise than normal, and I didn't like it. So I capped off the draw line, and reinstalled the original PCV system. Currently, I have a 300ml bottle of air tool oil under the hood, and the intake of the compressor is easily accessible to add a few drops. It's temporary, but the compressor is much happier now.

    Continued...

  3. #3
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    With the two big pieces mounted, I moved on to connecting the system together. The shop at CTC uses 3/8" hose that we purchase in bulk, and add our own fittings to the ends. Upside is when someone drops slag onto a line, that 25' section is tossed and replaced. I scooped one that still had enough solid line for my uses. Tied together with fuel injection line clamps, I the system came out leak free!

    This is the main line. I may switch this out to a ½" section, to get more flow to the front of the truck.


    Run across the top of the RHS frame rail, secured to the brake lines as needed,


    Up against the firewall, into the engine compartment,




    In the last picture, you can see the discharge line off the compressor, and the yellow tank line feeding up from the tank. The discharge line is 10mm, heavy wall aluminum - not the easiest thing to hook up to. I cut off the factory condenser fitting. Then, I brazed a 3/8 barbed fitting to a 3/8 OD pipe compression fitting, and snugged it onto the line. Remarkably, there were no leaks! I had to file down the threads of the barb to get it to seat inside the compression fitting.






    Continued...

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    One of the hardest parts was actually choosing where to mount the quick-connect. After staring for a good half hour, and circling the truck at least a dozen times, I decided to get'er done and tuck it into the grill. I may still add a second connect at the rear. One of my ideas was to sink it into the cubby hole behind the wheel wells. Perhaps later... on with the install!

    A piece of ¼" stock was heated and bent to become the bracket;




    Pulled the grill at this point to do the mounting & trimming for clearance;




    Damn sexy piece if you ask me


    Took about 8 trial fits to get it as tight as possible. A dremel with a cylinder stone is vital here.




    And finally,


    Continued...

  5. #5
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    The anticipation of getting it done was getting to me. A trip to Princess Auto yielded the pressure switch and manifold;



    I hooked up a short section of line to the quick connect, and routed it to the manifold area,


    After assembling the manifold, the hoses were connected. Left to right are the pressure switch (not installed at time of photo), Tank line, quick-connect line, and the compressor discharge line. Obviously, the gauge is mounted on top.


    I left enough line that I can raise the manifold about 5" above the battery / radiator for service or repairs. The manifold itself is tucked down and secured to the washer fluid bottle bracket during normal service. This places the gauge just about level with the washer reservoir cap.


    With all the lines hooked up, I manually tripped the clutch to test my system;



    The pressure switch was mounted high under the dash, behind the glove box. It is not serviceable up there without removing the box itself, so a remote switch had to be added to control the system. I chose to put it in the change tray in front of the shifter.







    And that's that! After buttoning everything up, I flipped the switch on. The compressor fired up, and brought the 7ga tank from 0 to 100psi in about 1 minute, at idle. Speeding the engine up to 2000 cuts that down to about 25-30 seconds. With the engine at 1200, I can use my impact gun to remove six lugs, and it's still at 120psi when I get back to the gauge. A blower tip or die grinder would probably be the only thing necessary to kick up the engine speed above idle for. The rest are all intermittent tools and the compressor can more than keep up with those.

    Changes I would make would be running ½" line from the tank up. It might be expensive, but I think I'd get more 'umph' from the gun with the additional flow. I would also get a manifold that has mounting brackets, instead of relying on a pair of zip ties. I would (and will) relocate the gauge inside the cab (tee off the pressure switch line), and replace the under hood gauge with a safety valve. Other than that, I'm very happy to have it installed and look forward to using it.

    Thanks to DVS for the help with the pressure switch question, and to my apprentice Josh who kept turning the wrenches while I was sitting at my bench thinking this thing up .

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    That's a damn fine quick disconnect! the cadillac of QD's.
    That's a nice clean install compared to some I've seen. nice job man.
    DONE with it!

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    Good job Eric, even for a Toyota...jk. One thing, do you think you need a regulator? I put one on for a different reason but then thought that when using air tools dont they advise on the pressure being around the 90 psi limit and since my pressure switch I have kick off at 125 psi I was worried about causing damage to the air tools. Anyways I have my regulator at 90 psi just to be safe. I also have the inline oiler from princess, seems to work quite well for me, only thing was the air tool oil I got was so clear I cant see the level in the container, I bought some winter air tool oil to replace it with that is much darker. I sitll have a small leak after the one way valve where I have run flexible copper to the pressure switch. This section gets extremely hot and I will be switching to stainless as soon as I can, but works great. Good work!
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    Hodgi..... I need help with mine.... Me dumb, you smrt.
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    nice! you "almost" make me want to get mine done, lol. whats your pressure rated at, and I dont suppose you have the pa part number for it do you?

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    Pressure switch kicks in at 100psi, and back off at 125psi. I did not modify the settings.

    I just happen to have my receipt right here;
    8070310- Gauge, back mount 0-160psi. $4.99
    0430426- Switch, Pressure. $14.99. This is a special purchase item.

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    oh, also Eric, I may have missed it but do you have a blow off valve? If your pressure switch pukes out you'll need it. I probably missed it.

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    Eric, get a plastic cover for that disconnect, or put a small baggy on it. You do not want it to act as a catcher for mud and to have it feed the mud into your air tools..

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    Did you wire the pressure switch to shut off the compressor's clutch? Is that how the compressor turns on and off? Is there a way to manually shut it off so it doesn't keep the tank pressured 100% of the time (another switch is series)? Maybe the toggle switch i see is for this.

    Looks good. I should be doing this too, i have A/C but it doesn't blow out cold air. It the compressor pumps out air then i'm 1/2 done.
    Last edited by girtch; 09-21-2008 at 12:49 PM.
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    Similar to mine.

    2 Things:
    1: Do cover the QDisco. Mine Fill with mud and make installing the line not so Quick!!!
    2: Under the hood, used steel line. After blowing my rubber and vinyl WAY to manny times I went to 3/8" BrakeLine front to back. The rubber gets hot and at 125psi it pokes a hole in it in no time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DYNNOMMYTE View Post
    Eric, get a plastic cover for that disconnect, or put a small baggy on it. You do not want it to act as a catcher for mud and to have it feed the mud into your air tools..
    Already done. I use a cut-off finger from a latex glove to seal it when not in use. But I could use a proper rubber piece if you know where!

    Quote Originally Posted by girtch View Post
    Did you wire the pressure switch to shut off the compressor's clutch? Is that how the compressor turns on and off? Is there a way to manually shut it off so it doesn't keep the tank pressured 100% of the time (another switch is series)? Maybe the toggle switch i see is for this.
    Very last picture I posted is the master switch for the system. I have switched power to that switch, then on to the pressure switch, then down to the A/C clutch. So yes, I do have a "Master Off" switch for when it's not in use

    Quote Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
    Similar to mine.

    2 Things:
    1: Do cover the QDisco. Mine Fill with mud and make installing the line not so Quick!!!
    2: Under the hood, used steel line. After blowing my rubber and vinyl WAY to manny times I went to 3/8" BrakeLine front to back. The rubber gets hot and at 125psi it pokes a hole in it in no time.
    #1 is taken care of.

    #2, I'm hoping with the use of full-on industrial line and proper, full contact clamps, I wont have blow-off situations. The systems been cycled from 0-125 about a dozen times now, with no problems. And it seems a couple drops is enough for the compressor or I get TONS of oil spray.

    Thanks for the link to the XJ OBA setup. I like that inline oiler that doesn't need pressure. I'll keep my eyes out for one.

  16. #16
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    Got to use it tonight !!

    Brother called me up to help repair some eaves troughs that got blown down. Brought along my cut-off wheel, and made short work of trimming down the new spouts. The tank did discharge under constant use at idle, but a stick under the throttle stop gave me ~1800 RPM that kept up the pressure. VERY happy to have it tonight, saved me from a bunch of tin-snipping.

    So now I'm thinking: Installing an idle-up solenoid when the compressor kicks on

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    Or a hand throttle?

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    Yep, a hand throttle is mighty handy, cheaper than a soleniod too probly.
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  19. #19
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    Nice job man makes me wanna do mine
    GO HARD OR GO HOME !!!!!!!!

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    ya should have a pressure relief valve for sure in ur tank but looks like a nice clean install
    xj with stuff

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