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Thread: shawns 84cj7 tear down and build

  1. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennuck View Post
    On the e brakes, did you adjust the star wheel on the back brake shoes. It should be adjusted out until the drums slide on and off with a little resistance. If your drums pull off easily that's probably the problem.
    I was wondering if I needed to adjust the star wheel more. I can hear the drums dragging a little. Heading out to the garage now and hopefully get the master changed and the ebrake sorted out.

    Then once my pink slip is in hand its safety time.

    Chris, soon buddy soon.

  2. #162
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    Hey Shawn that thing looks mint !!

  3. #163
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    You need to make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly before adjusting the emergency brake cable. Adjust the rear stars and drive backwards and pump.

    NOTE: You will need to back off the e-brake cables or else the brakes will not adjust properly...

  4. #164
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    ^^ Thanks John, some inspiration for ya!!

    ^ Thanks Pav, I was also wondering about the lock nuts on the front cable through the equalizer. Am I supposed to have the lock nuts on the facing rear side of the equalizer? Or am I also supposed to have one nut on the front facing part of the equalizer?

  5. #165
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    both nuts should be together so that you can lock them together...they will be on the rear side up against the flat side of the equalizer bar. if you need a pic let me know.

  6. #166
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    So I started with backing off the e brake cable all the way. I do have the nuts to the rear of the equalizer.
    Lifted jeep on stands and adjusted the starwheel so I could just hear the drums drag... Lowered jeep did about 6 reverse runs and slammed on the brakes.
    Adjusted e brake cable so that there was good tension and gave it a try . Fail. Adjust, test , fail. tried afew more times and was getting pissed so I left it.

    Installed a new master and had the wifey out to help... Brakes work great, no pedal drop whatsoever...

  7. #167
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    When going in reverse, pump the brakes again and again..no need to slam them on...each pump will adust the star wheel a little bit.

    weird how the e-brake won't work.....maybe pull a drum and have someone SLOWLY try the ebrake and see what's happening inside the drum. Maybe there's a part missing inside the drum or something not hook up correctly?????

    ---------- Post added at 06:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

    is the little flat bar betweeen the pads on both sides?????
    amc20 brakes Pictures, Images and Photos

  8. #168
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    another pic
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0808chp_06_z+1966_chevy_el_camino_rear_axle+axle_removal.jpg  

  9. #169
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    shouldn't be any parts missing , I replaced them all.... Have to look and see about the spreader bar...

  10. #170
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    So I'm insured, plated and legal. Wo hoo! Almost 4 years it took to get here.

    Thanks to all the great JK'rs . and friends I've made to help me get this far. Without you this project would probably still be a pile of parts and never get finished... Thanks again

    BTW, you can change my username to 84cj7 poser! I had to sign a waiver, that I wouldn't offroad it. Guess, I, m buying an atv to beat on.

    THE BUGS:

    Timing or vacuum causing backfiring, sputtering... ran decent on the way to the garage. I notice the vacuum by pass plugs, some have come off. The HEI distributor, moved, I tightened it done and now I;m hearing a ticking noise coming from it.

    T-case seems to be rattling off of skidplate.

    WHAT I'VE TRIED:

    Put all the bypass plugs back on.
    Loosened the HEI off a bit, moved ti every which way, doesn't get any better.
    Replaced the plugs (before problems started)
    Put a new K&N air filter on tonight. ( I Don't think the air filter was causing any problems, all my vehicles get a K&N)

    Don't have a clue what vac. lines I need hooked up or where the critical ones need to be.

    Thoughts??

  11. #171
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    Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    before we talk vac lines will you be driving it in the winter????

    It will matter for the cto switches (coolant temp switches on the vac lines)

    always liked this diagram if you're going simple...ignore the air pump...but this is assuming you will be eliminating the feedback carb, the heat ducts on the air cleaner, the up/down air streams on the catalytic.

    btw...what was the deal with the emergency brake

    and who did you insure with????

    [COLOR="Silver"]
    Last edited by Pav1; 09-02-2011 at 10:55 PM.

  12. #172
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    Pav1 i think shawn is running a 360 but i am not sure

  13. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by pav1 View Post
    Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    before we talk vac lines will you be driving it in the winter????

    It will matter for the cto switches (coolant temp switches on the vac lines)

    always liked this diagram if you're going simple...ignore the air pump...but this is assuming you will be eliminating the feedback carb, the heat ducts on the air cleaner, the up/down air streams on the catalytic.

    btw...what was the deal with the emergency brake

    and who did you insure with????

    [COLOR="Silver"]
    Nope, no winter driving. No air pump.... i do have cats, headers and duals...John is right, amc 360, believed to be 1979... mc 2100,2 barrel.... HEI... I pretty much only have the line off the HEI to the pass. side of the carb. A line from the back of the intake to back of carb and one from rear diaphragm on intake to port on front pass side intake. everything else I blocked.

    Farted with E brake some more, still not great. But held when it needed to.

    Sorry, didn't see this sooner. Arrrrrrgh!! f'n pager.... back to work.

  14. #174
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    here's what I would hook up....

    manifold vac to
    - pcv
    - brake booster
    - charcoal canister vent line

    ported vac to
    - distributor
    - egr
    - charcoal canister signal line

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