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Thread: Jeep Bow-Tie Build up

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Newmarket Ont
    Posts
    166
    Time Online: 6 Days 19 Hrs 30 Mins 59 Secs
    Avg. Time Online: 33 Secs
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    Looks very good. Mine is also a 92 with an SBC. I used Novak adapters and motor mounts, and Hedman block hugger headers, and made a Y pipe from mandrel bent 2 1/2" U bends, down to single exhaust, all 2 1/2, front to back. I have V belts, and used a ps pump from a 1 ton Chev truck, and have had no problems, other than it steers just a bit too fast. I am on 35" Pro Comps.
    Tip..B4 you even try it, swap the rear end for something other than the stocker. I broke the spiders in mine on the first dry burnout. The Ford 8.8 out of an explorer is the cheapest way to go, and while you're there, if you dont already have a CV style driveshaft, you will need one. Other things to consider. Alternator..use a 1 wire Delco, and eliminate all but the 10 guage feed wire, from your stock harness. (it all unplugs) Use the Jeep sensors, Water temp and oil pressure, and harness, and pull the fuel pump relay out of the underhood fuse block. When making your exhaust, put an O2 sensor in the pipe. (even if it doesnt work, it has to be there to pass drivecleans visual inspection)
    If you have any way to prove where your engine came from, keep it for driveclean. I could be wrong here, but it seems to me your 700R4 needs a computer to make it shift, and B&M make a retrofit kit. Another biggie is BRAKES. The engine sort of overpowers the stockers..but new rotors and ceramic pads mostly cures that.
    I have yet to do the driveclean thing, but will have to face the music in the spring.
    Overall, the swap is definatly worth while, and makes the Jeep drive like it should have in the first place. Mine is quiet, smooth and pleasure to driveHowever, 1st gen SBC general replacement parts are becoming a bit hard to find.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Paris
    Posts
    525
    Time Online: 1 Wk 3 Days 44 Mins 18 Secs
    Avg. Time Online: 49 Secs
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    My 350 is carbed (holley truck avenger), I have e-tested twice...You will need catalytic converters, and I couldn't pass without an egr valve as well, with the egr I pass with flying colours...that is with a rebuilt 70's block with stock heads...

    For the 700-R4 depending on the year, you dont need a computer, just something to lockup the torque converter in OD, Painless Performance makes such a kit, Just Transmissions in Brantford did mine and he did something internally so I didnt need the kit...

    MegaTherion
    '87 YJ - Chev 355, 700-r4, Dana 300, Dana 44s, 4:10s, 4" Super Lift, 35s.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Newmarket Ont
    Posts
    166
    Time Online: 6 Days 19 Hrs 30 Mins 59 Secs
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    Your guy probably disconnected the lock up switch. (located in the valve body) I'm using a TH350 myself. Older 700's where a nightmare for burning up. I used to be a GM Parts manager, and processed warranty at the rate of about 2 a week. Too say the least, they where a part of why people lost confidence in GM, in the late 80's and 90's.
    Truck avenger carbs look good, but I am using an Edelbrock/Carter clone. I would also suggest a Rochester works good too. I know Holleys inside out, but could never get one to work right offroad.
    My engine is a mishmash of parts, and the original donor didnt have an EGR in the first place, so am not sure how thats going to fit the driveclean. I have the original manifold, but am using a street dominator edelbrock. I have had this engine laying around my garage for over 20 years, unused. Its a de-stroked 350, around 330 cubes. Eagle crank, Carrillo rods, KB pistons, and ported to the max heads. When I decided to use it, I stuck in a real mild cam. When I used it 20 years ago, it was in a tubbed S10, and it ran an honest 10.20 quarter, on pump gas. As it is, it idles great, has vacuum, and makes massive torque, but sounds like anything else. Anybody that owns a 4 litre Jeep could tell it aint stock, but it isnt an attention getter in of itself. Having a polished Aqualu aluminum body is, however..lol. Sofar I have blowed up my transfer case, spit out a driveshaft, and scattered the rearend..on the street. I have a brand new JB conversions case, JB Reel Driveshaft, and 8.8 4:10 posi, waiting for me, and the weather to warm up a bit.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Newmarket Ont
    Posts
    166
    Time Online: 6 Days 19 Hrs 30 Mins 59 Secs
    Avg. Time Online: 33 Secs
    Rep Power
    10

    Wire fiasco

    Quote Originally Posted by bensjeep View Post
    Hey, do have a engine wiring diagram for chevy 350?? to a jeep harness??
    Hey, and good day. You dont really need many changes, as long as you are using a carb. The Jeep starter wires just hook up. The alternator is a bit of a challenge, but get a one wire alt from your local re-builder or a speed shop. I used a Tough Stuff one from Performance Improvements. 100 Amp and just over $100.00, new. Use the larger feed wire from your stock harness, and disconnect the smaller wire pack, and toss it. The Jeep alternator wont work, because it turns the opposite direction, although it fits with a bit of effort.
    All you need to make the distributor work is a 12V Key activated source. Must be a full 12 volts, so find or borrow a meter, but I found one near the brake booster, that looks like it was probably an AC connector. Looks like a headlight pigtail connector. All your original sensors pretty much just tranfer.
    As for the dash, remove your original tach, and all the bulbs from the check engine etc, locations, and there ya go. Pull the relay out of the underhood fuse box, for the fuel pump, and as you already know, you have to move or fabricate a new fuel line. to run up the right side. The stock Jeep one is 4/16, and you need at least 3/8 to feed the beast. Most Jeeps use Delco switches and sensors anyway, so there ya go. The most time consuming part is chopping out the wires that you dont want/need..ie, injector harness. Just pull the covering off, and go fishin..but go slow and dont cut them until you have the new engine actually up and running. If you have any problems, PM me, or mail me at kidstf@rogers.com

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