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Thread: Torque order of hold down bolts on a 2.5L cylinder head

  1. #1
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    Torque order of hold down bolts on a 2.5L cylinder head

    My attempt WRT my TJ build was to remove the cylinder head and sand it down. I started off with loosening the 5 cylinder head bolts and they all loosened easily. Then i started in on the double ended studs and wellll...... They are on good. Since i didn't have a 12sided 13mm deep socket handy i had to use a wrench end and i just couldn't get the leverage to break them..... So i just decided to tape down the areas i didn't want to affect and did a quick grind job right on the block.

    So, my question is... Since i cannot follow the correct torque order to button these back up (As 5 of them are still tightened down), any concerns i should have or be aware of?

    Cheers,
    RIP OD, YOU'LL BE MISSED.... BUT that's OK 'cuz you've been REPLACED !!!

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    http://www.justanswer.com/view_image...4620_jeep3.gif


    1. Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure:

    *
    1. Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 throughout) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
    2. Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 10) to 61 Nm (46 ft. lbs.) torque.
    3. Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
    4. Tighten bolts (in sequence):

    *
    o Bolts 1 through 6 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
    o Bolt 7 to 136 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
    o Bolts 8 through 10 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.



    based on a 98 tj, hope it helps, first one that came up on google, might wanna a lil more searching to confirm

    info found here: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...cs-sequence-98
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  3. #3
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    Oh i know the sequence, problem is that i cannot loosen the 5 studs down one side. Down the other side the bolts loosened no problem.

    Because of this, i cannot follow this sequence because well..... all the studs are already tightened down.

    This is where i am concerned.....

    Thanks Mayhem.

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    ya my fault, i didnt read yer post just yer title hehe just woke up.

    It really is better to torque it all proper, its easy enuff to warp it, is there somebody in yer area that might have the rite socket and a breaker bar to snap them free? Where are you located? whut river lol

    and are you sanding down the outside for pretty or doing something to the contact surface? sandpaper has sand on it so be sure to use some good tape to block off as many passageways to prevent any sand getting stuck in yer valvetrain.

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    Yeah, i was going to sand down the exterior as it looked like arse, however i gave up after not being able to break the studs and instead sealed up all the openings and then hit the outside with a wire wheel.

    I have the 12sided 13mm in shallow socket, just not the deep socket. So i then used the other end of a wrench instead on the studs, however even with a bar on the end, i couldn't get the right leverage to break them free. BUT, based on what you are saying, i am probably better off to get them loosened up.. I kind of figured as much. However with my limited engine building, i was hoping it wouldn 't matter much.

    Hehehehe, River is south of Ottawa . Appreciate the offer, but you be a bit of a trek .

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    allright. I had a brainfart and figured it out. All i had to do is cut down the exposed stud enough so that i could get my 12pt 13mm shallow socket on it. That did it and they all broke free.

    Sunday morning dump sure does give a man some good "Thinking" time!

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    dude, thats like fkn gross n shit hahaha


    hope theres no shavings sitting there, cleanliness is job one fer engine work young jedi

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