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Thread: Project Red Rover

  1. #1
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    Project Red Rover

    Well, I had started a thread about this junkpile way back in December when I initially purchased it for $500 but the plans have significantly changed for it since then, as has my knowledge of its condition.

    I bought it thinking it was pretty mint, it had a leaky sunroof which had made the interior plastic and headliner mouldy but I figured that would be an easy fix. I got the sunroofs working properly (they were opening all by themselves due to a short in the ECU) and got the inside all cleaned up and dried out.

    Its pretty much been sitting since then as the original plan was for it to get on the road by summer but I had to get the money together to do so before I could start the project. This past weekend I brought it home and started by taking the seats and carpeting out so I could clean-up the carpet and POR-15 the floors. The passenger side was pretty clean but when I got to the driver's side I discovered two very large holes in the floor, one of them had even creeped up and rotted away the base of the A-Pillar as well. This thing had obviously been leaking for years, and its still leaking from under the windshield.

    I then realized that it would probably never be road-worthy again (at least I wouldnt drive it) so I am now making it another trail-truck, pretty much a smaller version of my Jeep.

    This past weekend I removed all carpeting and sound-deadening, removed all the pastic crap off the front bumper in prep for removal and new bumpers, patched up the floors to keep the mud out, ground down all the loose floor material, cleaned up the seat bases in prep for paint and put new plugs, wires and air filter in it. Its going to need a new exhaust (with cats or remove them cause they are rattling around inside) as well as some O2 sensors cause right now it runs pretty roughly.

    Stock spec:
    '94 Land Rover Discovery Series 1
    v8
    133,000 Originals KMs (good even though it is rusty)

    Modification plans include:
    -homemade snorkel
    -3in lift
    -33-34s
    -homemade bumpers
    -storage bins
    -cb and some other small stuff

    Im going to keep this thing small and low budget, plus completely sealed from the outside so I can take it out in the fall/winter when I dont want to get soaked/freezing in my Jeep. Let me know what you guys think!

    When I brought it home on Friday from work:



    Plastic crap removal:



    Floors cleaned up (you can see how big the holes were on the driver's side):







    More pictures in a couple days!
    94 ZJ-7" lift, Clayton Long Arms, 36X12.5 Super Swamper TSL's, Backhalfed, Lincoln Locked, Half Doors, 9000lb Superwinch, Camo'd.
    90 Ford Bronco-60's, 5.38s, ARBs, 44" Boggers, 351 Windsor, Headers, Exhaust, etc.
    92 Range Rover Classic-Lots of lift, 36X12.5 TSL Super Swampers, Warn Winch, Bumpers, Lights, etc. Zebra Style!

  2. #2
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    I will be interested to see how it turns out.
    Depending on what you want in the way of modifications you may want to consider a bit of trimming of the rear wheel well by just giving it a Camel cut and having a local machine shop make up some 2" aluminum spacers out of bar stock ( or possibly 2.25 on the passenger side and 2" on the drivers side to level out the vehicle.
    Rear sway bar disconnects can be made from using YJ shackle bushings ( the correct size for the sway bar links ) and dislocation cones are a simple thing to make for the rear . you can drop the upper shock mounts to add more droop by adding a 1/4" plate to the mount and drilling new holes 1" lower .
    Brake line brackets have a mounting plate on the centre diff and this can be flipped to add more slack in the lines ( more than enough for a few inches of lift) And the Steering stabiliser can be converted to the Defender style by simply making the Bracket to attach to the frame ( piece of angle iron and a grinder makes it ) and relocating it to the front bar which places it high and out of the way as opposed to stock location.
    If you get really ambitous you can bobtail it .
    Keep in mind that everything is tucked up inside the the frame rails so you have a surprising amount of clearance
    Cheers

  3. #3
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    i saw you towing it down market street a few days ago and was wondering when i would hear about it again. what ended up being the problem with the engine? wires/plugs?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by duncan View Post
    I will be interested to see how it turns out.
    Depending on what you want in the way of modifications you may want to consider a bit of trimming of the rear wheel well by just giving it a Camel cut and having a local machine shop make up some 2" aluminum spacers out of bar stock ( or possibly 2.25 on the passenger side and 2" on the drivers side to level out the vehicle.
    Rear sway bar disconnects can be made from using YJ shackle bushings ( the correct size for the sway bar links ) and dislocation cones are a simple thing to make for the rear . you can drop the upper shock mounts to add more droop by adding a 1/4" plate to the mount and drilling new holes 1" lower .
    Brake line brackets have a mounting plate on the centre diff and this can be flipped to add more slack in the lines ( more than enough for a few inches of lift) And the Steering stabiliser can be converted to the Defender style by simply making the Bracket to attach to the frame ( piece of angle iron and a grinder makes it ) and relocating it to the front bar which places it high and out of the way as opposed to stock location.
    If you get really ambitous you can bobtail it .
    Keep in mind that everything is tucked up inside the the frame rails so you have a surprising amount of clearance
    Cheers

    Hey, thanks for the tips.

    I think I am going to get some new coils for it rather than spacers cause it is sagged out on the driver's side and I am just going to remove the rear sway bar because it will never be driven on the road anyway. Im going to make new flex lines up for it at work (if it needs them, we'll have to see how it flexes with new coils) but the shock mount relocation is a very good idea.

    And to Ian, it was actually that same short in the ECU as the sunroofs short that was messing around with the fuel injectors and causing them to run at full capacity all the time.

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